Z1OwnersClub GB

The tank on my z1000st is corroding inside.
The inline fuel filter has rust particles inside.
Some of these have got past the filter as the pilot jets
were blocked.

Can I have recommendation for a product to kill the rust or line the
Tank.

I used Deox-c by Built Hamber, It was easy and safe use. You can get the whole system but I just got the de ruster and washed it clean and dried it by blowing hot air from an air gun. I had hoped to avoid lining it but it was gone to far. I needed to solder brass leaf over the bottom rear corner and other areas were also porous when I started treating it. most will advise, if it isn't leaking don't line it, as once the lining breaks down you will have trouble getting it out. I can't remember liner I used but it seems to be a good job. It was clear and i could keep building it up indefinably once it hadn't fully cured, but once cured( 72+ hours) you can no longer add a coat.
I will try dig up the tin if you want the name of it. I did two tanks with it and still had some left over. The Deox-c is also reusable.

Flowliner Biorust to derust and por15 liner if you need it.

Just to make the decision even more confusing i would recommend Evapo-rust. This is the best rust remover I have used - safe to use, non-acidic, and seems to passivate the steel surface - no flash rusting.
https://www.toolstation.com/evapo-rust- ... ver/p55677

I used Restom, not sure if it's available in the UK

Hi Thanks for the replies.

Looking inside the tank it does not seem to be massively rusty.
It us enough to cause a problem.
If I use rust killer, will the tank corrode straight away.

Zpower sell a product called kreem, has anyone any experience of this

My z900 import tank was qute rusty inside as bike must have been standing for many years as it was all quite a state.
I put about 20 or so nuts inside from m10 to m6 and gently moved it backwards and forwards upside down etc which scraped loads of rust off, tank was dry, used air line to blow loads of rust dust out and several splashes of brake cleaner (from 5L tin) inside to rinse.
Purchased the kreem set of three intending to line it but only used the first tank cleaner/rust remover as it really did quite a good job. Left it for couple days rinsed it our a few times with clean water then dried it very quickly with hot air gun and placed above portable electric heater to remove water which collects along edges. Also gave it plenty of air blasts with compressor. Sprayed it with loads of wd40 to stop flash rusting as i had to strip tank of paint down to bare metal then painted tank tail and side panels in z1b bue colours. Juat waiting for calm dry weather to finish with 2k laquer.

My z900 import tank was qute rusty inside as bike must have been standing for many years as it was all quite a state.
I put about 20 or so nuts inside from m10 to m6 and gently moved it backwards and forwards upside down etc which scraped loads of rust off, tank was dry, used air line to blow loads of rust dust out and several splashes of brake cleaner (from 5L tin) inside to rinse.
Purchased the kreem set of three intending to line it but only used the first tank cleaner/rust remover as it really did quite a good job. Left it for couple days rinsed it our a few times with clean water then dried it very quickly with hot air gun and placed above portable electric heater to remove water which collects along edges. Also gave it plenty of air blasts with compressor. Sprayed it with loads of wd40 to stop flash rusting as i had to strip tank of paint down to bare metal then painted tank tail and side panels in z1b bue colours. Juat waiting for calm dry weather to finish with 2k laquer.

I have used the three stage kraemer process.
Will try out this weekend.

I fitted the tank earlier and I have leak around the fuel tap.

There is grove and o ring around the tap.

Does anyone know where I can purchase one of these o rings?

https://www.z-power.co.uk/fuel-tap-repair-kit-1

AL

Hi Dunlop4

as Al already mentioned: get the repair kit for the fuel tap.
Just take care for the little O-ring around the vacuum valve and make sure it closes the tap when the engine is not running.
Mostly the leak appears when the round rubber part is worn or became hard . When you change it for a new one the leak should stop.
Mind the little lip on the outside of the round rubber part, you'll have to find out how to mount it, towards the outside or towards the inside of the tap, I have always difficulties to find the correct way of installing it
Good luck!
GrtZ
Philippe