Hello Guest User,

Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.

To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.

Checking Valve shims

Need help restoring, building, or finding then try here.

Moderators: paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R, chrisu

Message
Author
User avatar
Taffus
Moderator
Posts: 4303
Joined: 30th Aug 2007
Location: .21 club

#31 PostAuthor: Taffus » Sat Nov 17, 2012 8:14 pm

made this a "sticky" as it's a common question
"You should see the damage, bronze. Huh? metal damage, brain damage. Heheheh. You listen bronze. I am the Nightrider. I'm a fuel injected suicide machine. I am the rocker, I am the roller, I am the out-of-controller! I'm the Nightrider, baby, "

chrisu
Moderator
Posts: 4683
Joined: 3rd Sep 2005
Location: Hertford herts

#32 PostAuthor: chrisu » Sun Nov 18, 2012 3:43 pm

fame at last..............

mikeyoz1
100Club
100Club
Posts: 137
Joined: 18th Jan 2012
Location: usa n.c.

#33 PostAuthor: mikeyoz1 » Wed Jan 23, 2013 8:01 pm

chrisu Great job . bravo

User avatar
PETER KZ1A
100Club
100Club
Posts: 167
Joined: 26th May 2009
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA

#34 PostAuthor: PETER KZ1A » Thu Apr 04, 2013 3:52 pm

That circled diagram on the shim chart is good; a picture paints a 1000 words

LTD Project
100Club
100Club
Posts: 224
Joined: 31st Aug 2008
Location: York, North Yorkshire

#35 PostAuthor: LTD Project » Wed May 29, 2013 7:03 pm

Sorry to drag this one out but....

Further to the point that xsfool and Pigford discuss on which way the cam should be pointing to take the correct reading.

In my GPZ1100 (Unitrak) manual supplement it directs you to take the reading with the central line of the cam in line with the mating surface on top of the head.....

Anyway, views on this instruction from Kawasaki as the reading with the cam set like that is definitely smaller than the 180 degrees from the valve as shown by Chrisu

Whadayafink?
Help and motivation always required......
KZ1000 B4 on the road, KZ1000 B4 under serious restoration, KZ1000 B3 waiting it's turn.
GB's old snotter in the operating theatre at present!

User avatar
zed1015
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 2543
Joined: 2nd Nov 2005
Location: Somewhere between Scunny and Goole.

#36 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Wed May 29, 2013 8:36 pm

Checking them Kawasaki's way puts you very close to the quietening ramp on the cam and possibly on the ramp with some performance cams so the only way to be 100% on the base circle and to avoid false readings is to have the lobe pointing directly 180 degrees away from the shim.

LTD Project
100Club
100Club
Posts: 224
Joined: 31st Aug 2008
Location: York, North Yorkshire

#37 PostAuthor: LTD Project » Thu May 30, 2013 7:06 pm

OK, thanks for the clarification. That is what I will do!
Help and motivation always required......

KZ1000 B4 on the road, KZ1000 B4 under serious restoration, KZ1000 B3 waiting it's turn.

GB's old snotter in the operating theatre at present!

nick pearce
100Club
100Club
Posts: 280
Joined: 28th Feb 2009
Location: Gloucester

Valve guide.

#38 PostAuthor: nick pearce » Mon Feb 24, 2014 6:09 pm

Thanks for putting up the guide Chrissu. Does anyone have the correct tolerances for the GPZ1100 unitrak with road going kent cams in it. Ive lost the bit of paper I had it written on. Cheers Nick. :?:
N Pearce

User avatar
zed1015
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 2543
Joined: 2nd Nov 2005
Location: Somewhere between Scunny and Goole.

Re: Valve guide.

#39 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Mon Feb 24, 2014 6:42 pm

nick pearce wrote:Thanks for putting up the guide Chrissu. Does anyone have the correct tolerances for the GPZ1100 unitrak with road going kent cams in it. Ive lost the bit of paper I had it written on. Cheers Nick. :?:

You want to be on the wide side.
Anywhere from 0.15 mm up to 0.18 mm.
Yoshi quote 0.20mm for their ST2 and ST3 cams.

nick pearce
100Club
100Club
Posts: 280
Joined: 28th Feb 2009
Location: Gloucester

Valve clearance guide.

#40 PostAuthor: nick pearce » Mon Feb 24, 2014 7:55 pm

Thanks Zed1015 you're a star. Cheers Nick.
N Pearce

Korky
Regular Poster
Posts: 98
Joined: 29th Oct 2013

#41 PostAuthor: Korky » Tue Apr 15, 2014 5:55 pm

Thanks for that Chris. That's very helpfull I have mine to do.

Farmer
100Club
100Club
Posts: 381
Joined: 7th Jan 2015
Location: East Sussex

#42 PostAuthor: Farmer » Fri Feb 06, 2015 10:17 pm

I take it that I have to put the cam chain tensioner back on a J engine to check the valve shims, it does not say anything in the Clymer manual, but it does say to remove it before putting the cam cover on :)
1981 KZ1000 K1 LTD

Farm Boy with an O Level in Metalwork and not much else.

Everything in Sussex is a She, Except Tom Cat and She`s a He.

User avatar
Al
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 2470
Joined: 21st Oct 2007
Location: Farnbronx, Sin City, N.E. Hants

#43 PostAuthor: Al » Sat Feb 07, 2015 12:04 am

It will help.
If the chain is slack the valve springs will advance / retard the exhaust cam and the chain will jump a tooth or two.
Soon as you can get a look at the cam timing marks when the crank is aligned with the correct timing mark.
'F' mark or 'T' mark?
The inlet cam mark (dash) will likely be out since correct timing of the inlet cam is related to a curved lowereing (shortening) of the top chain run.
The fixed blade inside the cam cover is responsible for this anomaly.
If you want to set the cam timing accurately or want to change the standard cam timing you will need a load of stuff like DTI with extended plunger, magnetic mounting base and bolt down plate, fake cam cover slipper blade, degree disk etc etc.

AL
1981 J1

Farmer
100Club
100Club
Posts: 381
Joined: 7th Jan 2015
Location: East Sussex

#44 PostAuthor: Farmer » Sat Feb 07, 2015 6:01 pm

Al, I first read your post at 7am and to be honest it was brain overload, I have not ever done this before, I managed to get some time today and the results are number 1, inlet 0 still move shim, exhaust .05
2, inlet 0 still move shim, exhaust .05
3, inlet .05, exhaust, .05
4, inlet 0 still move shim, exhaust 0 still move shim

so am I right in saying that soon I will have to change some shims as the gap gets smaller with more miles on the clock or is it the other way. :)

Graham
1981 KZ1000 K1 LTD



Farm Boy with an O Level in Metalwork and not much else.



Everything in Sussex is a She, Except Tom Cat and She`s a He.

User avatar
zed1015
Hardcore
Hardcore
Posts: 2543
Joined: 2nd Nov 2005
Location: Somewhere between Scunny and Goole.

#45 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Sat Feb 07, 2015 6:44 pm

The gap only gets smaller.
All your shims need changing NOW.
You want 0.10mm minimum.
Kawasaki changed from .5 to .10mm on the early engines to .10 to .15mm to combat over tight clearances and burnt valves .


Return to “Bike Help”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 12 guests