Z1OwnersClub GB

First time out of the garage after nearly a year. Far too long, and far too much spent (just don’t tell the wife!).

A few niggles yet to sort, but hopefully back on the road within a week.

She’s a looker! Top job! What are the niggles?

Looking good. Let us know if we can help with the niggles.

What did you use to polish the car, it's super shiny.

zapo wrote:What did you use to polish the car, it's super shiny.

The car was professionally detailed. I can’t take credit for it

r3sc wrote:She’s a looker! Top job! What are the niggles?

Only 2 issues really. I’m not happy with the front brakes. I’ve spent days trying to bleed them, but the lever still comes back to the bar too far.

The second one is more of a problem. Number 4 cylinder is not running properly. I’ve tracked it down to an air leak in the carburettor mount to the cylinder head. At some point in its previous ownership a thread must have stripped in the head and it’s been replaced by a stud which has cracked the mounting lug. As a result, it cannot be tightened enough to form a proper seal. I’m looking at options to fix that at the moment, but I think I may end up having to source a replacement cylinder head.

Hi.
Changing the heads a bit drastic and could lead to other problems/costs if it isn't good condition. I suggest getting the stud out, welding the boss including filling the hole, drill, helicoil and fit a new stud. Any reputable garage/shop should be able to do this sort of thing.

BAFF1960 wrote:Hi.
Changing the heads a bit drastic and could lead to other problems/costs if it isn't good condition. I suggest getting the stud out, welding the boss including filling the hole, drill, helicoil and fit a new stud. Any reputable garage/shop should be able to do this sort of thing.

I agree completely, but at the moment the bike is misfiring on that cylinder as I cannot get a tight seal for the carb rubber onto the head. As you tighten up on the stud, the crack opens. I've considered pulling the stud and welding or JB welding, and then drilling/retapping, but getting it right is a challenge with the engine in the frame. The other option is some form of sealant.

My hope is that a temporary fix will get me on the road for what's left of summer, and if I can source another head, I can strip and check that out over the winter.

Thanks

Niggles now sorted.

I needed a new master cylinder with a larger diameter piston (20 mm) as opposed to the 15.8 mm one I bought originally.

Repair to the head worked out OK, so she’s now running sweetly as well.

chrisNI wrote:

Thanks Chris.

Very nice mate