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Z1B Restoration

Work in Progress

Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus

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Gonzo
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Re: Z1B Restoration

#46 PostAuthor: Gonzo » Tue Oct 16, 2018 9:48 pm

Very patient work with the paint-job Phillippe and i'm sure it will finnish the bike off just lovely.
1978 Z1000A2
Previous Zeds:
1975 Z1B
1982 Z650F3

Philippe
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Re: Z1B Restoration

#47 PostAuthor: Philippe » Wed Oct 17, 2018 9:25 am

Hi men
the paintwork is done! The body parts recieved a final layer of clear coat yesterday.
It turned out right and I couldn't resist the temptation to put them on the frame.
DSCN3523.JPG

DSCN3524.JPG

I'm satisfied with the outcome, it looks promising for the future.
Now the body parts can spend the winter inside.

As you can see I did some other work on the frame. The swingarm and the yoke are mounted.
The swingarm recieved needle bearings
DSCN3515.JPG
needle bearings

DSCN3516.JPG

and the yoke has tapered roller bearings.
DSCN3518.JPG
the tapered roller bearings

They're not original but they improve the road handling and you don't see them when all the parts are mounted.
DSCN3521.JPG

DSCN3520.JPG

The engine is partially assembled and mounted in the frame.
I allways try to keep the engine as light as possible when mounting it into the frame. A complete engine is way too heavy to handle on your own, certainly when you have to bend over while holding it. Think about your back!
DSCN3522.JPG
the partially assembled engine in the frame

That's it for today, maybe more in the next few days!
Tada
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!

deka
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Re: Z1B Restoration

#48 PostAuthor: deka » Wed Oct 17, 2018 12:46 pm

slow down Philippe your showing the rest of us up.... top work fella and she is looking lovely
kz900 c
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955i daytona

Philippe
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Re: Z1B Restoration

#49 PostAuthor: Philippe » Sat Oct 27, 2018 3:47 pm

Hi guys

The next episode of the restoration!
I didn't do very much spectacular the last week.

DSCN3526.JPG

I installed the timing advancer and the ignition plate.
The timing advancer was taken apart, the parts cleaned and new grease was added when I reassembled it.
It should do its job for the next 40 years or so.

The cylinders were mounted with the Kawasaki ring compressor tool, it's a piece of cake!
DSCN3529.JPG

All the distribution parts were replaced by new ones, it's obvious when the engine is reassembled.

The engine is waiting for the cylinderhead to be mounted.
You remember that I decided to use a spare head... I changed my mind, I'm going to use the original one after the broken cooling fin is repaired. That will be done tomorrow in Holland.
Why I go to Holland? There's a good reason ...you'll find it out, I'll tell you soon.

I allso installed the clutch cover, it's starting to look like an engine at last.
DSCN3525.JPG

On the left hand side of the engine I installed the gear mechanism and the cover, a new sprocket was added and a new O-ring chain. I installed an endless one, the swingarm was out and I had to mount him back anyway.
DSCN3527.JPG

The alternator cover was next, I cleaned the rubber grommet and added some liquid gasket to the wires before installing it. Let's hope it's oil tight.
DSCN3528.JPG

Maybe you didn't noticed but I use new panhead screws. In my humble opinion the engine looks better with them .

During the last week I started with the electric parts, a regulator and rectifier were mounted, yes I know they fail often when they're over 40 years old but I take the chance, I can allways replace them when they're failing.
DSCN3530.JPG

The starter solenoid and fuse holder rubber are allso mounted.

You may have noticed that the engine bolts aren't fastened yet. I know, I'm waiting for the original bolts to be replated. Hopefully next week, or the week after, or...sometime this year.
More news to come!
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!

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floydsz1
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Re: Z1B Restoration

#50 PostAuthor: floydsz1 » Sat Oct 27, 2018 4:15 pm

It's all looking very nice .
Z1b, zxr750 m2, zrx1200
Z1000 (2003) lawson thingy,
Z1000 (2004) z1b lookalike ,
Z1000j lawson race bike,
Versys 1000gt (2015),
Gsxr750H.
Fatbob.

Philippe
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Re: Z1B Restoration

#51 PostAuthor: Philippe » Wed Oct 31, 2018 9:49 am

Hi men
yesterday I had a bit of progress on the engine.
I mounted the cylinderhead.
Faster said then done.
Past sunday I went to Holland to get the broken off cooling finn welded. Pieter, the man who performed it, did a great job!
Yesterday morning I lapped the valves, mounted them in the head and shimmed them up. One camshaft at the time. After one row of valves are shimmed, I dismount the camshaft and start with the other row of valves. All the shims have a fair amount of play and thickness to last for several thousands of miles. The exhaust shims range from 2,55mm up to 2,70 mm with a minimum play of 0,15 mm . The intake shims range from 2,65 mm to 2,90 mm with a minimum play of 0,10 mm. A very good cylinderhead !
Afterwards I mounted the head and camshafts and now the engine is allmost completed.
DSCN3533.JPG
the welded cooling finn

DSCN3534.JPG
the assembled head

DSCN3537.JPG
the mounted head

DSCN3540.JPG
the mounted camshafts and the top idler

DSCN3541.JPG
the mounted camcover

It took me about 4 hours, starting with valve lapping and ending with tightening the camcover. This allso included some breaks to have a cup of coffee and/or a smoke.
A few things need to be done on the engine: the chain tensioner, the exhaust studs and some other parts must be mounted and adjusted but the heart is in the machine! Let's hope it 'll beat correctly.
I'll have to concentrate now on putting some other parts together because I'm waiting for the chromer to do his job.
As soon as I have news about those parts I collect them and the restoration can go on!
Tada
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!

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8 Valve Mark
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Re: Z1B Restoration

#52 PostAuthor: 8 Valve Mark » Wed Oct 31, 2018 10:26 am

nice work philippe! did you get your smoke in holland too,??
:Oo

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Re: Z1B Restoration

#53 PostAuthor: Philippe » Wed Oct 31, 2018 10:34 am

Hi Mark
thank you for your reply!
No I didn't get my smoke in Holland, it's more expensive there. I buy my cigarettes in Belgium, I'm smoking only tobacco, no weed or grass or whatever name they give to it. I want to keep a more or less good reputation! :twisted:
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!

Wrigers
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Re: Z1B Restoration

#54 PostAuthor: Wrigers » Wed Oct 31, 2018 11:31 am

Nice work Philippe , just a question on the exhaust cam,
I always find it a struggle as the n03 lobe balances awquadly on n03 bucket and its an effort to align the timing mark with the head, im sure you have an easier method.

Philippe
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Re: Z1B Restoration

#55 PostAuthor: Philippe » Wed Oct 31, 2018 2:52 pm

Hi Wrigers
as always it's a matter of luck.
Some advice:
Put the n°1 and n°4 piston on the top dead point.
You have to pull the camchain taut, make sure the T-mark on the timing advancer is aligned with the mark inside the points holder.
Put the sprocket of the exhaust camshaft with the mark as close to the top surface of the cylinderhead as you can.
Place the camcaps over the camschaft, screw the 4 bolts of the n°1 cap in, not fully, only partially. screw the 4 bolts of the n°2 cap partially in and return to the n°1 cap.
Don't force the bolts in, push the camcaps down with your hand to prevent too much pressure on the thread inside the head. If you do this carefully, the camshaft will slide in the bearing and the mark on the sprocket will align with the top surface of the cylinderhead.
Check the T-mark on the ignition advancer and adjust if necessary. Don't forget to check the position of the mark on the sprocket, make sure it's aligned. If something is misaligned, start all over again.
Good luck
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!

Philippe
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Re: Z1B Restoration

#56 PostAuthor: Philippe » Wed Nov 07, 2018 3:52 am

Hello men

a few days ago I decided to take care of the ignition switch and of the seat lock.
I have an original ignition switch with a key that has number 753 on it...
DSCN3549.JPG
the original ignition switch 753

... and an original seat lock with number 751.
DSCN3550.JPG
ignition switch and seat lock

I don't have a number 751 key.
So I decided to change the seat lock internals in order to use the number 753 key.
It's not the first time I do this so I can use one key on a bike.
The key number on the original ignition switch is located on the lock body and on the key itself in small numerals, about 2 mm high.
The number of the seat lock is on the chrome metal circle in front.
First thing to do is to get the lock mechanism out of the lock barrel.
DSCN3551.JPG
the blocking plate

With a Z1 -A-B seat lock it's easy to do .
You have to remove a small plate that's keeping the lock mechanism inside the lock barrel.
I use a Dremel to remove a little bit of metal of the lock body that's bent in order to free the retaining plate. Don't remove too much or you won't be able to secure the retaining plate afterwards.
After a bit of fiddling the retaining plate was removed and the lock mechanism taken out of the barrel.
DSCN3552.JPG
the lock mechanism

At the left of the lock body you can see the retaining plate. It goes in a groove that runs around the rotating part of the lock and prevents that part to fall out of the lock.
At the right of it you can see the 5 small plates that slide up and down in the rotating part of the lock. They're pushed in the mechanism and have a very small coil spring.
They look all the same but they aren't. The rectangular hole in each plate is at a different place. That's where the key goes through and the dents of the key determine the movement of the plates. The hight of the plates determines if you can turn the key or not.
DSCN3553.JPG

There are 4 different plates. The rectangular hole in each plate has a different place . Above and beneath the rectangular hole there's a determined amount of material left.
Number 1 plate has 2,8 mm above and 2,2 mm beneath the rectangular hole
Number 2 plate has 2,3 mm above and 2,7 mm beneath the rectangular hole
Number 3 plate has 1,8 mm above and 3,2 mm beneath the rectangular hole
Number 4 plate has 1,3 mm above and 3,7 mm beneath the rectangular hole.
The combination of the different plates determines the lock number.
Lock number 753 has the following combination: 22442
Lock number 751 has combination: 42443
As you can see each lock has 5 plates.
Changing the lock mechanism isn't that difficult now, you only have to pick out the correct plate and place it at the correct place in the rotating part of the lock.
In order to be able to pick out correct plates I strip any original lock I can find, but only if I don't have a key for it!
I know this explanation is a bit confusing, maybe I'm not using the correct name for the different parts and I hope that the pictures help to explain it.
Anyway I managed to change the internal parts of the seat lock so I can use one key for both locks.
DSCN3554.JPG
opened

DSCN3555.JPG
locked

The steering lock is another matter. I know that the Z1 US steering lock can be changed as it uses the same key . All the the European style Z1 steering locks I've seen, can't, because they have a different key hole. Later models of the European steering lock have the same key hole but I haven't opened one yet.
The information about locks and how to change the plates inside comes from the German forum and is there thanks to Achim.
If you really want to obtain detailed technical information about your classic Z bike that's the place to find it.
I know the language is the main barrier, try it anyway, you won't regret it!
Greetings
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!

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damien.wrl
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Re: Z1B Restoration

#57 PostAuthor: damien.wrl » Thu Nov 08, 2018 3:11 am

Anything you cant do??

Simonic
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Re: Z1B Restoration

#58 PostAuthor: Simonic » Fri Nov 09, 2018 2:12 pm

Your work constantly amazes me........

Philippe
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Re: Z1B Restoration

#59 PostAuthor: Philippe » Sat Nov 10, 2018 6:08 am

Hello men
I did some more "work" the last few days.
The parts for rechroming and replating were ready! I decided to pick them up. On monday the plated parts, I went to the platers with my Z1000ST-R and on thursday with my car. It's at the same place but I couldn't wait, so I went twice.
DSCN3560.JPG
two long rear mudguards.

As you can see there are some spare parts, two long rear mudguards...lucky me!
I started with the wheels. The rims are rechromed and the markings on them are still visible allthough ... it could have been better.
DSCN3561.JPG
the rims

When I respoke the wheels, I use new spokes and nipples.
DSCN3566.JPG
the new spokes

I start with counting them: 20 inner spokes, 20 outer spokes and 40 nipples.
Then I start with mounting the inner spokes on the hub: 10 on the left hand side, 10 to the right hand side.
On the hub there are markings where the old spokes were, it's normal that those markings are there, it's an old hub.
These markings tell you where the outer spokes were attached in the past. When you put the new inner spokes in the hub you have to put them in the other holes and in the opposite direction.
When the inner spokes are in the hub you have to find the place where they go in the rim.
DSCN3567.JPG
determining the correct placement

I always start with the two inner spokes on the left and the right of the valve hole. Mind that the markings on the rim are just beneath the valve hole and that the markings are on the left hand side of the rim. Take care with the rear rim: there are 3 holes, one for the airvalve of the inner tube and two for the tire grippers, don't confuse them!
When the 20 inner spokes are loosely attached to the rim with the nipples, I mount the outer spokes, these are the easiest to mount!
DSCN3569.JPG
putting the outer spokes in the hub

After the 20 outer spokes are mounted the most difficult part begins. I have to true the rim with the spokes and make sure it's straight. That can take a while. It's rather difficult to explain, just try to find the correct amount of tension and don't hurry!!! take your time.
DSCN3571.JPG
job done

After that I mount the tires. I use old tires to mount on bikes that go in my collection. If I decide to ride them, I have new tires mounted and balanced.
On the front wheel I mounted only the left hand side disc.
On the inside of the hub the 6 holes for mounting the right hand side disc are blocked with plastic inserts.
I was lucky to find those when I disassembled the bike.
DSCN3563.JPG
the six plastic inserts

They're there to prevent dirt getting in and to obstruct the threads inside.
DSCN3564.JPG
in place

DSCN3573.JPG
allmost back on her wheels!

As you can see the old girl is allmost back on her wheels.
A few more parts to mount and I can drive her around the workshop.
More to come the next few days!
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!

deka
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Re: Z1B Restoration

#60 PostAuthor: deka » Sat Nov 10, 2018 8:23 am

As always philippe top work Puts my efforts to shame No excuses though keep up the good work
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