Z1000ST restore

[Philippe]

Hi myklexfox
you don't need to remove the rotor before you can split the crankcase, if it's not necessary to remove it for changing the needle bearing of the starter clutch or the clutch itself, leave it on.
When using a pneumatic wrench, you can just hold the rotor by hand, the rotor bolt will come out, and the engine won't turn, don't worry. It works for me that way!
About the damper cam now; I think you're speaking about the part that's bolted on the left hand side of the output shaft where the front bevel gear case is attached... or am I wrong?
If you're talking about that part: no it doesn't need to be removed to split the crankcases. If the threaded portion of the output shaft is not broken off you're a lucky guy! Most of the time it's broken off, a weak point of the ST. So just leave the damper cam on.
I think that buying a compressor would be a good idea, it's a tool you can use in many ways and it's very helpfull to clean parts.
GrtZ
Philippe

[myklexfox]

thank you 8 valve Mark for your comment - still weighing up which way I am going to go on this

[myklexfox]

thanks again Philippe for your advice.

One question (again ), so therefore do you actually need to remove the rotor bolt at all to split the crankcase? I keep going through the manual and though it is clear on some things I can't seem to work out what you do need to do or don't need to do to actually split the crankcase?

The only reason to split the case is to repair the crack & also to repaint the engine. Before coming off the road the were no real problems with the engine other than it needed a good clean & clear out & a good service & tolerance check (due to moderately high mileage). Everything standard, the bottom end, gearbox, clutch etc. all seemingly ok & no problems.

I suppose I'm just a bit nervous of the unknown to be honest

I have now removed the cam shafts, & managed to free & remove all the cylinder head bolts , so next job is to actually get the front bevel case & cylinder head off. I absolutely refuse to use screwdrivers to prize apart gasket surfaces, reminds me too much of the butchery I used to see with Triumphs in the late 70's /early 80's . I think I've found the right thing to help release the gasket "seal", I will report further on my success or failure once I've actually tried it.

Cheers M

[Philippe]

Hi myklexfox
you don't need to remove the rotor to split the crankcases.
If you want to remove the head, do it gentle. On each side there's a knock pin at the place where the M6 bolts are located. The knock pins are there to keep the head at the correct place when mounting it. Put a large screwdriver near them between the head and the barrel to loosen the head. Do it gently and don't break a cooling fin! Try left and right, front and rear . Once the head is loose, you can take it off without removing the engine from the frame. The same goes for the barrels. There are slits between the barrels and the upper crankcase, located at both sides near the front. These are designed by Kawasaki to put a screwdriver in and to loosen the barrels from the crankcase. Again, you can remove the barrels without taking the engine out of the frame.
Once the head and the barrels are away, the engine is not so heavy to lift it out.
When you want to remove the crankshaft from the upper crankcase you must remove the pistons from the crankshaft.
Before you can split the case you must remove the gear selector.
Using a flat screwdriver to get parts off the engine is no butchering as long as you use the tool in a gentle way.
I understand you're afraid of splitting the engine, I allso was afraid, so don't worry. You have the best tool you can get: the shop manual. It's all explained in there from A to Z.
Good luck!
GrtZ
Philippe