GPZ11 Injection

[zed1015]

Liners can easily be swapped.
Some light heat from a hot air gun or oven to warm the casting evenly will loosen them up enough to slide them out.
Do not cold press them out as it will loosen the fit.
Bores will need a hone and new rings at the minimum if the clearances are within spec.

[moizeau]

Thanks Rob, yeah honing and rings are on the list.
Here's a clearer picture of the spare pistons if they can be identified?.

What temperature is needed to slide 'em out?
Cheers

[zed1015]

They look very much like Wiseco or MTC but have no markings so anyone's guess.
C mark should denote the XC ring type used.
Depending on the fit which varies wildly the liners shouldn't need much heat to move.
I've never measured the temps but I usually either use a hot air gun/stripper until they push out by hand or put them under the grill with the door shut and listen for the clank as the block slides down the liners.

[moizeau]

Thanks again, not done rings since my Hodna lawnmower rebuild. Do different manufacturers' rings have different dimensions regarding thickness, depth etc. 'cause I could source the rings from the grooves, maybe?

[zed1015]

The Wiseco/MTC's currently use the same make rings and the code XA- XC etc denotes the type preceded by a number which indicate bore size etc.
XA are thinner than the XC's.
Other makes will use different rings with different thicknesses etc.
You should be able to find rings once you know the groove widths.
I'd start with the Wiseco rings to see if you can find a match or try an engine re-conditioners as they usually have a ring manufacturers book to match rings to pistons in this sort of situation.

[moizeau]

Thanks again, I'll have a measure of the grooves. Enjoy the last bit of the weekend.

[Bill P]

Nice little job you have ahead keep the pictures coming

[moizeau]

Just had a quick lock at the original pipes. I have a rattly one, so presuming, loose or broken baffle. It seems to be held in with 3 rivets? Is it just a case of drilling them out to see what's happening inside?

On another note, got a M18x1.5 x50 bolt today from a tractor place and the knackered rotor is off the 2nd engine. Made a rotor holder, just need to weld the handle on tomorrow, and made a front sprocket holding tool.
I'll send you some pictures shortly Bill

[Al]

Just for reference i have just measured a brand new Wiseco piston and the ring width gaps are as follows. Top and second ring thicknesses are exactly 1mm.
Oil control ring groove is exactly 2mm.
Measured the piston as you may not have rings to compare sizes and the bottom assembly of three parts would be sketchy to measure accurately.
These are the XG ring format.

AL

[moizeau]

Thanks Al for the measurements, I will see what mine say.

[moizeau]

Got the liners out today from both sets of barrels. Didn't want to move at less than 170 degrees though. (I haven't got a press so wanted them to hand push out or fall) The first set gave me some fun, 170 degs, 3 came out, 1 got stuck an inch from coming out, then it had cooled down too much and was now too big to fit in my spare oven (didn't want to use the one in the kitchen due to oil fumes etc.).
Being somewhat buggered now, built this

The embers are under the tin sheet with small roof tiles and 1/2 inch floor tiles for insulation all in a rabbit hutch turned on it's side (not a hutch for kids to look at them in....). It didn't get it hot enough to get last liner out but it was hot enough to get it back in and now it fits in the oven again. Back in the oven at 200, sorted.
Next job, get the bike engine out and pulled apart.
I think I know why the engine locked up..

The lump off swarf around the teeth looks like a bit of chain. The chain in the bike is damaged but I don't see that much missing. Thinking it maybe a bit of the old broken chain?
The sump was a bit off a mess, bit's of swarf and quite a bit of silicon.

Whilst taking the clutch cover off I did think the silicon was over used.
I also found this sitting on the strainer, obviously coincidence, but where is it from?

So a few questions remain.
Is the indent in the cam chain guide normal (previously posted photo). It's a fully automatic tensioner so with the indent maybe it didn't tension enough?
Why is the exhaust cam part of the head so knackered but the inlet is fine? Did the snagged chain pull the exhaust cam into the head or was there a lube problem?

I'll take a photo of the lump of ?? tomorrow

The crank seems OK but I'll need to do some checks as the spare is also good, see which one is best.
Any doctors out there that would like to suggest a 'cause and event'?

[Philippe]

Hi Pete
that looks awfull ! As far as I can see on the pictures I give my explanation as an amateur, not as a professional!!!
I think that the metal parts around the crankshaft sprocket are the remnants of a camshaft guide that fell into the camchain tunnel when a camshaft was taken out.
It was replaced and forgotten until the engine ran and got caught between the sprocket and the chain.
The little part of 8 mm could be the little pin that secures the camchain tensioner from pushing too far. It could have fallen out when the tensioner was removed from the engine. That could allso explain why the rear chain guide was so damaged, the tensioner wasn't stopped and continued to push.
The people who "repaired" the engine in the past did it, what I call, "the French way"...
The bikes I've bought in France had some repairs that I wouldn't dare to do. (two shims on top of each other to obtain the correct valve clearance ).
Mind that I have nothing against the French, they're mostly very galant and friendly people but when it comes to repairing engines or bikes they cut corners sometimes.
A good advice: check the whole bike before you start riding it, who knows what horrors you might discover!
GrtZ
Philippe

[moizeau]

Here's the bit of metal that was wrapped round the crank sprocket.

[rickm]

Not sure what the piece of metal is, but I like the napkin !

Seriously though, that's a proper mess.

[ADRIAN H]

That is nasty. Someone cut too many corners and should not be allowed near an engine.

Did you find an owners manual ?

I have a Kawasaki GPZ1100A1 / Z1100R service manual PDF I could email you - but it's 50Mb so would need to send a link to Dropbox.

Good luck with the project and keep the pictures coming, very interesting.