Double the troublezz. AMA style Racecrafters Z1000 and Moriwaki Z1R Turbo.

[zed1015]

APE support plates from Z1 enterprises USA arrived in the post today.
Straight to my door with no customs charges

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So finished milling the center cap

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Until the assembly sits at the same bolt height as original

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While i was waiting for the support plates to arrive i got the clutch and the rest of the internals cleaned and ready for the rebuild along with a new HD camchain etc.

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Then went over the cases again to make sure i hadn't overlooked anything when i realised they were z900 and the case mouths needed easing out at the rear so that the 1000 liners would fit.
Can't believe i didn't check that before i painted the cases but better than discovering it later when the bottom end is in the frame

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[zed1015]

Spent a few hours today getting the bottom end buttoned up.
APE hd cylinder studs and center cap support plate fitted, new Tsubaki camellia hd cam chain, new crankcase 'O' ring ,welded Z9 crank, undercut gearbox with the detent balls removed so all gears can be selected at standstill and rebuilt clutch basket.
Took loads of pics as i went along and all but the last three failed to load so you'll have to take my word for it.
Engine mounts on the frame need the powder coat easing back a fair bit as it's pretty thick due to the extra coating it had when it went back to cover the bare frame number.
Hopefully get that done in the next few days and then build up the rest of the motor once this is in..

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[zed1015]

A minor milestone today and finally got the bottom end in the frame
It's a nice tight fit with the close fitting mounts, oversize bolts and no slack in the bolt holes.
Even with the bolts loose you can't jiggle the engine around in the frame like you can normally which should really help sharpen the handling.

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Same goes for the solid rear motor mount which along with the rest of the engine mounts now needs the bolts machining to size for the final fit.

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Also got new taper rollers in the frame, machined up an ally bearing cover and fitted the re-furbed ZX7 bottom yoke ready for the forks once the top yoke is finished and polished.

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Progress slowly heading in the right direction

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[Tony]

Looks like you won’t be short of carbs you’ve got plenty to choose from

[zed1015]

Dug out the rebored barrels from under the bench this morning where they've been sat patiently waiting for action for the past four years and fitted a new front guide and screw.

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The gasket face and liner tops had been skimmed flush at the time of the rebore as i had fitted better liners from another block so dropped the barrels on the cases with no base gasket and a bare piston to check the piston height .
Anything more than 0.5mm above the deck would mean a thicker base gasket or barrel spacer but it came in at 0.15mm so i'm good to go and as close to zero deck height as i'm going to get once it's bolted down.

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Once that was sorted it was time for the heat shrink trick on the 8 exposed inner studs to keep the weather off them .

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Then fit the pistons and rings which i'd already gapped at the time of the rebore and drop in a new bottom roller and rubber damper blocks.

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And a half hour or so of poking the rings in the liners with a small screwdriver later the barrels are on with a fresh greased up base gasket.

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[zed1015]

Another little job ticked off the list today.
Sprocket carrier needed new and shorter sprocket studs after machining 8mm off the face for sprocket alignment and mullering the old ones getting them out.
Wasn't keen on forking out over a fiver each for genuine Kawasaki ones then taking the hacksaw to them so looked around for a decent alternative.
After a bit of searching i found these plated M10 Landrover manifold studs for under a quid each which looked like they would fit the bill.
They are the correct length on the sprocket side and just needed shortening for the carrier threads.

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Only four of them needed shortening as the other two are out of the way of the cush drive hidden in a couple of the drive dogs.

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After taking 15mm off the four that needed it they are perfect for the job

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And the only difference is that they are a 1.5mm coarse pitch on both ends rather than 1.25mm for the sprocket nut

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Which is handy as i already had some 1.5mm pitch stainless nylocks that are much cheaper to replace when needed.

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Just got the get the forks built, the wheel spindles re-zinced and it should be soon up on it's feet .

[Bill P]

Cracking job , enjoying watching your progress

[zed1015]

Made a start on the head this weekend.
Gave it a session in the blaster and treated it to some fresh paint ready for the rebuild .
Then proceeded to remove the old valve guides which is when the fun and games began.

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Already had some manganese bronze guides waiting for this head but on removal of the old guides all the exhaust ones more or less fell out which meant i would need some oversize guides to achieve the correct fit in the head.

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After fruitless search for some oversize manganese guides i resorted to using the four odd APE aluminium bronze ones i had spare for the inlets and by a stroke of luck a couple oversize Kibblewhite guides of the same material i've had lurking for years for two of the exhausts so i can make a start and have ordered two more matching Kibblewhite ones of the correct oversize for the other two which are now on their way from the states.

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After a quick measure up i found that numbers 2 and 3 exhaust need a 2 and 4 thou oversize guide respectively which by a stroke of luck are the sizes i have so now time for some action with my home made guide installer which keeps the guides square to the bores

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And around a half hour later with the help of some lube all four inlets and the two exhaust are in.

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[zed1015]

While waiting for 1 and 4's exhaust valve guides i managed to get all 2 and 3's reamed and the valves and seats cut.
The seats for the inlets only needed a light touch with the cutters but the exhausts were all out quite a bit due to the worn guide bores and took a fair bit of work to get them all lined up

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A while back i bought a couple of sets of stainless J valves from Abuso Racing in Portugal which only come in max oversizes of 38.5mm inlet and 33.5mm exhaust .
37 - 32 is stock in the J heads.
They were a bargain compared to the more well known popular brands and i had planned to machine them to the sizes i needed anyway.
I had intended on squeezing in as close to 38/33 as i could get but due to the exhaust seat cutting, previous seat wear and the stock length stems i've had to settle for trimming the exhausts to the stock size of 32mm and 37.8 inlet which gives just enough valve to valve clearance for use with the 410 lift Kent cams and borderline maximum stem height to trim off the stems and collets so i can still get the thickest shim in to start with.


Collet attachment in the lathe makes for very accurate and quick work of reducing the head diameter

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And re cutting the 45 deg face.

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Before and after.
33.5mm on the left, 32mm on the right

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Then this morning the other two guides arrived from the states much quicker than expected, just four days from ordering.
So got those fitted and measured up for reaming.

Mic the valve stem and add the clearance needed

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Then measure the guide bore and work out how much needs removing

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Unlike the Manganese bronze or cast iron guides you can't ream the hard APE aluminium bronze guides with a normal HSS guide reamer (top/Right) and the carbide brush hones are only good for light removal and final finishing otherwise you can end up with bell mouthed guides so you really need a diamond hone (bottom/Left).
I bought the 7mm expandable diamond hone from Tokar tools in Ukraine a few years back who now also sell them though their ebay shop .
It's cuts through in seconds like a knife through butter and supposed to last between 500 and 10,000 holes depending on material so probably won't ever need to buy another.

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Tapered solid guide pilot for the seat cutter is dead on 7mm at its widest so reamed the guides slightly under so it's a snug fit for seat cutting then will finish to the correct clearance once they are done.
Start off with the 60 degree cutter as this is easier to keep the cut central to the pilot and it doesn't try to follow the old seat like the 45 does and when there's a full 180 degree turn on the 60 cut the 45 will follow that and stay concentric to the pilot.
Once the seats are done and valves seated i can flip the head to tip the valves etc and then finish off by opening the valve throats and doing a bit of port work to blend everything in..

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[r3sc]

It’s looking good as usual Rob. How much do you think you’ll be taking of the stems to get the biggest shim size?

[zed1015]

It's going to be around 1.3mm off the stems and 1mm off the collets and retainers.
All the valves stems are now around the max stock installed height.
Much more than that and i would have had to use the 1mm shorter stemmed valves from APE which are availabe for this particular job but twice the price.

[zed1015]

All the seats successfully cut and lapped and while the collet chuck was still in the lathe i finished off the valve heads by putting a 30 degree back cut on the the inlets right up to where the 45 contacts the seat to improve gas flow.
Before on the right and after on the left.

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And the exhausts get the sharp edge of the recut margin radiused where it meets the face for the same reasonn.

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Then managed to get one valve tipped flush with the height gauge before i had to pack up for the day

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Very happy with this one.
Just 0.9mm removed to get minimum height so i know i'll be starting with the thickest shim and under a mill to trim off the collets and retainer.

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