Pigfords OLD effort......now JULES NEW PROJECT!!!!!

[Pigford]

Coz the other link packed up I've re-posted the "Directors Cut" version

[Ginger Bear]

Piggy,
Odd that, original link worked fine last night, but now it ask's for your password. You could just post that I suppose

One more thing, Hand on hip is not a good look

[Pigford]

My hand was on my WALLET actually.....

And YES those are my best slippers too

[Rich]

Engine earth, supply voltages, cams, ignition timing, fuel heights, choke system.
What's the mist coming out of the inlets when revved, accelerator pumps or blowback?

[Pigford]

Rich, its blowback mist....

Not uncommon, but I've put it down to the cam overlap

Engine earth good Timing good. I have a 1 volt drop from battery to coils, which don't sound to bad But will try a direct power link later

The carbs have been cleaned (manually) but the pilot system may be clogged - always a bit of unknown with 2nd hand kit

Once started it runs reasonably tho, & idles

[Pasc]

Sounds nice Mark.
Though I think it's safe to say that Quentin Tarantino is NOT too worried.

[Pigford]

Been out in the garage again......... Decided to drain the fuel tank - coz last time it was topped up was the SW Rally.....
Drained the carbs too. Got some fresh fuel yesterday & whacked that in.
Started mucho bettero
Only took 10 seconds.... Still revving too much. hey-Ho
You can set the idle low... Blip the throttle gently & not too bad.
Give it a slightly bigger tweak & they stay high & creep up
Gonna drop the needles next..... I know this is more 1/4 - 3/4 throttle, but it may be dragging a bit of extra juice thru
At least I'm making slow progress

[Taffus]

Have you tested for an airleak?

[Rich]

Pilots too big.

What's the choke system doing, what type is it where does it pick up from are the fuel pick-up holes blocked.

Does your ignition need a certain amount of revs before it will fire?

[mikey]

Pigford how come i cant ever see any pics you post but i can see everybody elses?

[PaulMceleney]

sounds very nice mark much better than when you first started it up

[Pigford]

Ok............ New fuel has helped tremendously.... so it starts up reasonably well.

Tried 17.5 pilots with 145 mains..... Idles a bit hesitant but doesn't keep revving so bad.... well hardly much at all..... well just a bit

But it won't rev properly.. too weak Gonna have to get some 20's me thinks.... Coz it was over revving with the 25's

Rich..... NO air leaks... double checked ignition OK... good battery & spark is OK... was just the bad fuel I reckon

May have to replace needle jets & needles They may be worn as these RFS are prone to that

[Al]

Mark, that soot coming from the exhaust; is it residue from its' previous incarnation?

Sounds retarded to me. (hanging up on the overrun) Did you time inner pair as well as outer pair?
Are they defo 180 degrees apart. (ie. is the adv/ret unit concentric or eccentric).

Can you borrow a manual advance and retard timing light and set it to 180 degrees.

With newly rebored and high compression pistons i would expect to see the revs sluggish and more than willing to drop down to settle at a lower RPM!

What is the black box you mentioned? Are you maybe running two sets of advance and retard, piggyback style giving false readings?


Weak pilots from memory lead to spitting back and this is far from that. Looks too rich in the pilots and massively rich in the main jets. What does the exhaust smell of? Fuel, oil, or carbon soot. Is it wet or dry?

Are these the Webb cams you got from Fatty Z1R? Did you then get the correct cam timing figures and degrees of overlap. By rights if they are close to correct then the bike should not really tick over as such. Therefore have they been backed off on the degree wheels to soften them?

Is that the oversize set of carbs you bought recently? 38's if i remember!!

Did you set the valve clearances to be within the acceptable range or did you select shim sizes to dial in the valve timing of each individual valve to have them open or close on cue irrespective of the cam timing of the shaft in its own right?

Couple of things to think about.



AL

[Pigford]

Al... Cheers for the time taken to reply mate

Cams are Megacycle set as they came when I got the bike The clearances are set to factory spec so shouldn't be far out either way.

Timing is set statically with advance held fully open at timing marks (40 btdc) on the Dyna S - so about spot on Checked both pickups (1/4 & 2/3) and running it seperate from the Kawasaki black box

As you say - was a tad rich, 32.5 pilots &155 mains Tried 17.5 pilots with 145 mains... but really leaned it out too much.... wouldn't rev over 1/4 throttle

The new fuel has made starting much better.... Did try some larger needle jets & 'sharper' needles but that was way too rich

Gonna go for the 20 pilots (Allens) & 145 mains

[Al]

Timing is set statically with advance held fully open at timing marks (40 btdc) on the Dyna S - so about spot on Wink Checked both pickups (1/4 & 2/3) and running it seperate from the Kawasaki black box Smile

I didnt think it was possible to set the timing static on Dyna systems. How do you know where the initiation point is??? There is no definitive timing mark to observe!!! Perhaps 'S' is different i have 2000.

I am pretty sure that there is a marked difference between the 'set' of dynamic and the 'set' of dynamic (actual) when you take into consideration; 'coil primary' length, coil 'secondary collapse' lag time, lead length and spark plug resistance.

Still sound retarded to me.

Ralph has a manually adjustable timing light with degree advance / retard on it. Really you need to set 'both' pickups on the 2000 and cross reference them at 180 degrees 'out' if you see what i mean. Half the difference if needs be but i've been caught out before with disastrous consequences.

If you get the mix correct but then subsequently find that the timing is retarded. Advancing it will richen it up even further. Personally i wouldnt try to set the mixture by ear or eye without first having established beyond reasonable doubt that the timing (actual) is factory minus 2 degree's.

Question; did you get baseline compression pressure figures for the new built motor? If so what do they look like? Going to have to do this to mine in a few weeks when the debris gets back from being scattered all over the UK.


AL