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Z650 into 810 project
Moderators: chrisu, paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R
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- 100Club
- Posts: 345
- Joined: 3rd Jul 2009
- Location: London
Mounting oil coolers in seat units is not new. If you louvre the top of the seat unit for an output and duct air through to the cooler it will probably work better than being placed at the front of the engine. An alternative would be to duct output air around the rear light into the low pressure zone. You will need to look at battery sighting if it is going to be there and creating a high pressure zone in front of the cooler, preferably turbulent air, your body / rest of the bike will create a low pressure zone after it.
Rich
diplomacy is a form of art - I was never any good at art
diplomacy is a form of art - I was never any good at art
Some activity yesterday, got my barrels back fron SEP and new rings. Fitted the top end and have got as far as fitting degree disc to crank, before I got too tired. I needed some of those rubber grommets that go in the bottom of the barrels that stop water lying on the crankcase top and prevent corrosion. I was at the local bike seat recoverer Smart RRRs and he made me some using a sheet of thick rubber and some of his leather punches.
Homebrew barrel rubbers.
Rings bound up in drainpipe and cable ties.
Finally together.

Homebrew barrel rubbers.

Rings bound up in drainpipe and cable ties.

Finally together.
Watch out fitting the cooler in the normal place infront of the engine- only little ones will go in if you have standard wheels- the front wheel is nearer the frame on the z650 because of the headstock design.
A cooler will go in- just not a fancy double row aftermarket jobbie.
I put in one I had on my 1100R and found that under full suspension compression the front mudguard hit it.
A cooler will go in- just not a fancy double row aftermarket jobbie.
I put in one I had on my 1100R and found that under full suspension compression the front mudguard hit it.
z650/1400 bonneville hybrid.
True, I was aware of this, the one I used was a small Kawasaki GT750 shaft one with std lines. The front wheel is 18", now and not 19", I slid the forks up through the yokes to recreate where the wheel would compress to, so I could check clearance. They also need mounting high so that the warmed air passes over top of cambox, which I read somewhere (to stop exhaust cam getting too hot), not sure it would be that much of a problem though.
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- Regular Poster
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- Joined: 16th Jun 2011
- Location: London ish
Crofty wrote:Me, smart! Just taken all day to degree my cams in, but sorted now
105 inlet, 107 exhaust, as Phil at Joy Engineering said.
And if I was smart I would of remembered to order a cam cover gasket after using my spare when servicing my other 650, now waiting for postman.
I've got a spare if you want to get on with it.
What we got here, is failure to comunicate.
Guy, if you make rubbers that way, after they are stamped out they narrow at the waist, but if you make it from rubber twice as thick, you simply cut through the waist and hey presto, two rubbers for one pressed out bit. Had to experiment with different punches as the rubber distorts a lot and does not end up same size.
- Bill Newman
- Custard Cream
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- Location: Ipswich
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- Regular Poster
- Posts: 98
- Joined: 16th Jun 2011
- Location: London ish
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