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Zed 900 road racer - Updated with fixed links.
Moderators: chrisu, paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R
hi rob
hi rob (supercharged zed)
the bit or part interested in is the Z zed butt rear end in aluminum like what you done but i want still use the conventual seat just a stronger tail piece and light holder
cheers
andy
the bit or part interested in is the Z zed butt rear end in aluminum like what you done but i want still use the conventual seat just a stronger tail piece and light holder
cheers
andy
Re: hi rob
kwak wrote:hi rob (supercharged zed)
the bit or part interested in is the Z zed butt rear end in aluminum like what you done but i want still use the conventual seat just a stronger tail piece and light holder
cheers
andy
Have never seen anything like that off the shelf so it would have to be a one off.
Someone like John Williams at the Tank Shop could make one.
One more job before the barrels go on.
Something i came up with years ago that will keep the middle eight barrel studs rust free and looking good , especially usefully if re-using the old ones that have gone a bit manky and lost their plating.
The middle eight are not enclosed like the four outer ones and get the full force of the elements and even new ones won't look good for long especially if you actually use the bike.
After cleaning up the studs and giving them a coat of paint or grease, cut eight lengths of 12mm electrical heat shrink tube, 4 at 120mm and 4 at 150mm.
Slot them over the appropriate studs
And shrink them on with the heat gun making sure they sit in the crankcase recess round the bottom of the studs.
Finally trim the sleeving so the tops come just up to the bottom of the threads where the head nuts go.
Once done, the corrosion that usually builds up around the studs that makes the barrels difficult to remove later will be no more and the studs will look good for years.
In fact 20 years and still going strong on the first engine i used this on.
Excellent idea Rob, will do this to mine when rebuilding it
- Jay
Something i came up with years ago that will keep the middle eight barrel studs rust free and looking good , especially usefully if re-using the old ones that have gone a bit manky and lost their plating.
The middle eight are not enclosed like the four outer ones and get the full force of the elements and even new ones won't look good for long especially if you actually use the bike.
After cleaning up the studs and giving them a coat of paint or grease, cut eight lengths of 12mm electrical heat shrink tube, 4 at 120mm and 4 at 150mm.
Slot them over the appropriate studs
And shrink them on with the heat gun making sure they sit in the crankcase recess round the bottom of the studs.
Finally trim the sleeving so the tops come just up to the bottom of the threads where the head nuts go.
Once done, the corrosion that usually builds up around the studs that makes the barrels difficult to remove later will be no more and the studs will look good for years.
In fact 20 years and still going strong on the first engine i used this on.
Excellent idea Rob, will do this to mine when rebuilding it
- Jay
A few more jobs done.
Finally got the cooler and bracket painted.
Then made up this rubber mounted bracket.
To take this dinky Danmoto nano cockpit dash.
Which hides nicely between the oil cooler pipes.
Then made a bracket for the sensor.
And changed the handlebar switch from an R1 to a ZX10R item.
Red ign kill is now battery power on/off for the horn and speedo.
Middle lap timer button is now the ign kill and the starter button is now the horn.
Riders eye view, just need a smaller fluid res to complete the look.
Finally got the cooler and bracket painted.
Then made up this rubber mounted bracket.
To take this dinky Danmoto nano cockpit dash.
Which hides nicely between the oil cooler pipes.
Then made a bracket for the sensor.
And changed the handlebar switch from an R1 to a ZX10R item.
Red ign kill is now battery power on/off for the horn and speedo.
Middle lap timer button is now the ign kill and the starter button is now the horn.
Riders eye view, just need a smaller fluid res to complete the look.
Last edited by zed1015 on Sat Feb 24, 2018 6:36 pm, edited 8 times in total.
Carbs rebuilt and fitted.
Alloy bellmouths are new items from Hitchcocks which were intended for Amal (screw on) fitment and at £11 each are a bargain.
They only needed slight modification and just need a tidy clamp to finish.
Alloy bellmouths are new items from Hitchcocks which were intended for Amal (screw on) fitment and at £11 each are a bargain.
They only needed slight modification and just need a tidy clamp to finish.
Last edited by zed1015 on Sat Feb 24, 2018 6:38 pm, edited 5 times in total.
Jay1969 wrote:Do you plan to cover the oil cooler with a cockpit fairing?
No! I'm going for the no frills backstreet racer look.
Sort of 70's/80's race track refugee.
Less is more I think.
Don't want it too neat either hence the visible welds and dents on the exhaust etc so it looks like it's been around a while and has some history.
View from the front, don't think it needs anything more.
Last edited by zed1015 on Sat Feb 24, 2018 6:38 pm, edited 5 times in total.
Your project is very inspiring Rob, thanks for taking the time
to share your inspiration with us.
Yeah great concept with the 70's 80's street bike style,
can't wait to see it completed. With a build like that,
what kind of 'teething problems' might one expect when
first running in the engine and road testing etc.?
to share your inspiration with us.
Yeah great concept with the 70's 80's street bike style,
can't wait to see it completed. With a build like that,
what kind of 'teething problems' might one expect when
first running in the engine and road testing etc.?
Few more random pic's.
Exhaust cleaned up and springs on, still got to conjure up a silencer for it.
Re-made the mudguard brackets (now one piece) and rubber mounted the blade.
brackets need painting and blade needs polishing to finish the front end
Oil cooler pipes fitted . Basic spring hose clamps for the no frills look.
Simple 'P' clip is enough to keep the hose in line.
Coils fitted and ht leads on.
Rats nest wiring waiting to be sorted.
Exhaust cleaned up and springs on, still got to conjure up a silencer for it.
Re-made the mudguard brackets (now one piece) and rubber mounted the blade.
brackets need painting and blade needs polishing to finish the front end
Oil cooler pipes fitted . Basic spring hose clamps for the no frills look.
Simple 'P' clip is enough to keep the hose in line.
Coils fitted and ht leads on.
Rats nest wiring waiting to be sorted.
Last edited by zed1015 on Sat Feb 24, 2018 6:41 pm, edited 7 times in total.
Jay1969 wrote:Your project is very inspiring Rob, thanks for taking the time
to share your inspiration with us.
Yeah great concept with the 70's 80's street bike style,
can't wait to see it completed. With a build like that,
what kind of 'teething problems' might one expect when
first running in the engine and road testing etc.?
Can't see too many problems to be honest. Those bored out carbs will take the most fiddling but I've done so many bikes that I know i'm in the right area already with the jetting to start so hopefully there won't be any surprises.
Besides that i'm looking forward to actually riding it and seeing how it handles. i will be very lucky if it all works straight out of the box with half a zephyr frame and other parts from at least four other manufacturers, but then again it's not the first time i've done this sort of thing so hopefully experience will prevail and i haven't built a pretty looking widow maker
[quote="zed1015"]Carbs rebuilt and fitted.
Alloy bellmouths are new items from Hitchcocks which were intended for Amal (screw on) fitment and at £11 each are a bargain.
They only needed slight modification and just need a tidy clamp to finish.
which bellmouth part numbers where they please ?
Alloy bellmouths are new items from Hitchcocks which were intended for Amal (screw on) fitment and at £11 each are a bargain.
They only needed slight modification and just need a tidy clamp to finish.
which bellmouth part numbers where they please ?
Keith
You can never have too many tools in your life, except the two legged variety
I'm never wrong, once I thought I was but I was
mistaken.
Phil Churchett winner 2013
You can never have too many tools in your life, except the two legged variety
I'm never wrong, once I thought I was but I was
mistaken.
Phil Churchett winner 2013
KeithZ1R wrote:zed1015 wrote:Carbs rebuilt and fitted.
Alloy bellmouths are new items from Hitchcocks which were intended for Amal (screw on) fitment and at £11 each are a bargain.
They only needed slight modification and just need a tidy clamp to finish.
which bellmouth part numbers where they please ?
The ones I used were for the Amal 389 , part AM/389/085A for the long version with gauze.
I did have to carefully swage them out slightly and cut three slots for the clamps. One of those segmented pipe expanders might make the job easier though.
I have just spotted another gauzed bellmouth at the same price that they do for the mikcarb equipped 350's and 500's which look like they may fit with no mods.
Part number BELLMOUTH43 for the 350 or 44 for the 500 comes with a clamp (just a jubilee clip) and the 43 and 44 probably indicates the diameter they fit which is near enough for the zed's.
Looks to be a short version though.
Here's a pic from the web site.
I would probably have bought four of these instead of the others if I had seen them but they are hidden on a different page in the catalogue.
Last edited by zed1015 on Sat Feb 24, 2018 6:49 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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