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new member with Z900 project

Work in Progress

Moderators: paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R, chrisu

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KWACKERZ1
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#16 PostAuthor: KWACKERZ1 » Mon Feb 13, 2012 10:37 am

Good start and sounds promising.

Daveys right though sort out the engine before you try and get it registered as you could have all sorts of grief if the dvla decide to involve the police.

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#17 PostAuthor: LondonZ1 » Mon Feb 13, 2012 3:55 pm

Thanks for the comments. Regarding DVLA, I was under the impression that it was the frame number that mattered, not the engine number. The frame number is correct for a Z900 A4 and you can see that the bike is clearly an A4 from all the details. I have the certificate showing that the importer paid the relevant duties. I was going to get a dating letter (probably from the VJMC) and I thought that was all I needed, other than an MOT. If I do need an engine number, then I'll have to re-think and maybe buy some A4 cases. I did try and find a guide on the DVLA website on registering an imported vehicle but if it is there, it's very well hidden.

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#18 PostAuthor: london calling » Mon Feb 13, 2012 4:26 pm

You can get a dating letter from Jerry,the Z1OC President.
He can be contacted via the Club Reps section on the L/H/S of the page.
Below is a link to a previous thread about registration:
http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... hp?t=17615

When the DVLA/VRO inspect the bike,they are only interested is seeing the factory stamped frame and engine numbers.
If the frame hasn't been powder coated then the numbers are easy to read.
I registered my Z900 with a daytime MOT to make thingz easier for me. :wink:
Last edited by london calling on Mon Feb 13, 2012 4:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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KWACKERZ1
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#19 PostAuthor: KWACKERZ1 » Mon Feb 13, 2012 4:29 pm

they pretty much focus on the chassis and some of my log books state engine number not declared, but it looks more genuine if you have the right numbers. My advise would be get it registered before spending the big bucks just in case.

You need to have an mot done against the chassis number before they will register it and they take the vehicle tax as a registration fee (i.e. you have to tax it so you'll need insurance)

If you join the club I think Jerry can issue you a dating letter.

Its worth being careful before getting carried away otherwise you could get caught out.

Great plans by the way!!

Maxton do classic fork conversions if you dont want to pay the Ohlins money.!

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#20 PostAuthor: eastlondon » Mon Feb 13, 2012 7:49 pm

LondonZ1 wrote:Thanks for the comments. Regarding DVLA, I was under the impression that it was the frame number that mattered, not the engine number. The frame number is correct for a Z900 A4 and you can see that the bike is clearly an A4 from all the details. I have the certificate showing that the importer paid the relevant duties. I was going to get a dating letter (probably from the VJMC) and I thought that was all I needed, other than an MOT. If I do need an engine number, then I'll have to re-think and maybe buy some A4 cases. I did try and find a guide on the DVLA website on registering an imported vehicle but if it is there, it's very well hidden.


As long as the engine number has not been deliberately defaced and is meant to be blank ,then you don't have an issue as the engine or casing have been simply replaced at some point with factory parts.

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#21 PostAuthor: Iain marshall » Mon Feb 13, 2012 7:59 pm

On the subject of the wheels, check the rim where the valve comes through, there should be a letter M there if they are Morris. I've got a set that look like them cost me £100, if they had been wider rims(4.00) I would have been paying a lot more.....
As others have said I'd get the bike Mot'd and regd before carring out major work on it.
Two of my bikes don't have engine numbers, and haven't been tampered with, new cases, heres one of them. This one is a US import and has a Cali Police Dept label on it with frame number


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Got the Rex, just the Kat to get now...

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#22 PostAuthor: LondonZ1 » Tue Feb 14, 2012 8:45 am

Image[/img]

I guess this means they are Morris wheels? The front is 19" and the rear 18". Both are about 2 3/4" wide measured to the outside of the rim. Condition is actually quite good, just need a paint and polish. I'll sell these in due course. I need them for the time being just to be able to push the bike around.

Regarding the advice of getting an MOT before I start spending too much money, this is (sadly) not really feasible. The bike looks better than it is; nothing actually works! To get it running would need new electrics, new shocks, fork overhaul, new hydraulics etc. I bought the bike specifically because all the bits I didn't want were rubbish anyway. I don't want to restore it to semi-original condition to get an MOT and then strip it back down to modify it. It will have to be the sh*t or bust route.

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#23 PostAuthor: KWACKERZ1 » Tue Feb 14, 2012 9:59 am

You'll get good money for the mags though dont ;let them go cheap unless its to me!! :lol:

Good luck with it and any help just shout,

Join the club for discount with z-power it will be worth it, and dont be disheartened by their web site its a bit crap.

Get on the phone as they can source all the trick Jap bits through their contacts and supply a lot of PMC stuff thats not on the site.

I dont work for them but they are good as is z1 enterprises US based but worth looking at.Also Cradely heath kawasaki stock a lot of stuff.

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#24 PostAuthor: ukcoupe » Tue Feb 14, 2012 11:27 am

pm sent

Chris

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#25 PostAuthor: LondonZ1 » Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:45 pm

Image

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My sculpture yokes have arrived from Japan, photos above. They are beautifully made with good attention to detail, e.g. replaceable lockstops. All the fasteners are stainless steel and the clamp bolts are pre-drilled for lockwire. The Ohlins forks have also arrived in the UK but haven't made it to me yet.
There are two threaded holes on the lower yoke which are designed to take a brake line splitter. Does anyone have any suggestions for how I can find one that fits? None of the obvious websites (HEL, goodridge) seem to sell such things. I want to run a single brake line down from the master cylinder to the splitter and then one line one to each caliper.

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#26 PostAuthor: coldsummer » Sat Feb 25, 2012 6:56 pm

Those yokes look gorgeous. Have you measured the stock brake line splitter?

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#27 PostAuthor: LondonZ1 » Sat Feb 25, 2012 7:09 pm

The standard shape is all wrong for the sanctuary yokes. The sanctuary bike splitter is just a simple horizontal tube. The master cylinder line connects at one end and then there is a line out at each end. The closest I have found is a H***a splitter on ebay in the US but I can't tell whether the hole spacing is correct. I was hoping that someone would know a brake specialist in the UK who can supply odd bits like this.

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#28 PostAuthor: LondonZ1 » Sat Feb 25, 2012 7:14 pm

This is what the sculpture brake splitter looks like. I can't find any information on it.

Image

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#29 PostAuthor: coldsummer » Sat Feb 25, 2012 7:15 pm

I was thinking more of the earlier splitter with the line from the mc going into one side at the top (brake light switch on the other side) and the two caliper lines exiting underneath. I can't find a photo at the moment.

Other than that contact the yoke supplier, they must have had a splitter arrangement in mind when they manufactured and drilled the yoke? Edit - just seen the pic from sculpture.

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#30 PostAuthor: Ginger Bear » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:34 am

Those are beautiful yokes. :drool

I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to get a brake line splitter machined here.

Try Mike at http://www.fullmetalornament.com/main.htm

He's an excellent guy to work with & you'll find his prices are 'realistic' too!

You can then get Mikey to polish & anodise it to match your yokes.

Normal thread (Kawasaki) reqd for banjo bolts will be M10x1.25 (just incase you didn't know. :oops: )
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