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Orient Express drag bike resurrection.Updated with fixed links.

Work in Progress

Moderators: chrisu, paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R

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zed1015
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#16 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Tue Feb 12, 2013 9:15 pm

Yep! :wink:
Can't beat his prices.

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KWACKERZ1
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#17 PostAuthor: KWACKERZ1 » Wed Feb 13, 2013 10:36 am

Joe who?

I need a wiseco kit so could do with a good price!

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zed1015
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#18 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Wed Feb 13, 2013 10:45 am

Joe hooper at Pitstop performance.
Average price for piston kit in uk is £525.
Price from Hoopers around £290 (depending on exchange rate) + shipping and customs still ends up around £100 cheaper.
Delivery time is around 2 weeks.
Last edited by zed1015 on Tue May 08, 2018 11:22 am, edited 1 time in total.

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#19 PostAuthor: KWACKERZ1 » Wed Feb 13, 2013 1:59 pm

TA very useful

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#20 PostAuthor: Toyboy » Thu Feb 14, 2013 4:22 pm

YEP totally agree

Just ordered a set of mtc 76mm pistons. Special order 4 week wait on those. Had loads of ape stuff before. Still cheaper than anyone in the UK even with customs and excercise slapping the vat on. :D

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#21 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:00 am

Main bearing cap has been machined for the support plate so the bottom end can be finally rebuilt.

PICT0315_zpsf9db7a87.jpg



Barrels bored to take the 72mm MTC turbo pistons, rings have been gapped and fitted to all except no-4 piston which will be used for deck height and valve clearance checking on the dry built top end.
Liner tops have been piano wired and i've 'O'ringed the outer stud holes to help reduce oil seepage from the copper head gasket.
The holes for the rear outer studs on the original cast barrels tend to taper towards the center from each end and can become restrictive for the top end oil supply when fitting the larger hd studs so these have been bored out to a constant diameter throughout their length.

PICT0316_zps0490f97e.jpg



A couple of zip ties on each little end stops the 3 loose rods running on their bores
PICT0318_zps9822cdb2.jpg


Then test assemble the top end and degree in the cams
PICT0320_zps43b12419.jpg


Haven't got any timing figures for these cams as there's no id on them so will have to settle on something like 109 in /113 ex lobe centers which is in the usual turbo setting range.
This will have to do for checking valve to valve clearance and squish (the valve to valve clearance will change with the cam timing so i'm going to have to check it at different LC's to see what the safe range is.
A piece of soft solder squashed beween the valve heads on overlap and measured with the vernier will tell how close things are.
PICT0323_zps7944752b.jpg
Last edited by zed1015 on Wed Feb 21, 2018 8:37 am, edited 5 times in total.

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#22 PostAuthor: wilsonsjw11 » Wed Feb 20, 2013 10:23 am

Rob
Excellent and informative thread.
Regards
Steve

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Mark Stratton
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#23 PostAuthor: Mark Stratton » Wed Feb 20, 2013 1:39 pm

Watching this one closely and getting tips for when I get to the rebuild stage.

Was going to have a go at dialing in the cams with slotted cam wheels. Does it make that much difference to the performance?

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#24 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Mon Feb 25, 2013 11:51 pm

Mark Stratton wrote:Was going to have a go at dialing in the cams with slotted cam wheels. Does it make that much difference to the performance?


Your cams could be quite a few degrees out due to factory tolerances and camchain wear etc.
Degreeing them in will get the most out of them and maybe make the bike feel crisper/stronger depending on how far out they were.

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head sealing

#25 PostAuthor: KWACKERZ1 » Tue Feb 26, 2013 8:58 am

Rob,
Could I pick your brains regarding your head gasket choice,
I contacted Joe regarding a piston kit and he offered me a
one piece copper,
two piece fiber or a
one piece fiber.

I noticed you are using a two piece copper why?

Which would you recommend for a 1075 normally aspirated road/track motor?

Oh yes who do you use for the rebore and piano wiring?

Cheers
Phil

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#26 PostAuthor: Toyboy » Tue Feb 26, 2013 11:01 am

Hi Phil

Unless you plan on stripping your engine regularly. Me personally i would stick to fibre. I've used both types. I suppose it depends on the application. High compression,turbo etc. Also if you use a one piece in either form. You will have to do away with the cam chain tunnel seal. And fill the space with some silicon or such like.

TB

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zed1015
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Re: head sealing

#27 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Tue Feb 26, 2013 11:06 am

KWACKERZ1 wrote:Rob,
Could I pick your brains regarding your head gasket choice,
I contacted Joe regarding a piston kit and he offered me a
one piece copper,
two piece fiber or a
one piece fiber.

I noticed you are using a two piece copper why?

Which would you recommend for a 1075 normally aspirated road/track motor?

Oh yes who do you use for the rebore and piano wiring?

Cheers
Phil


Ah! Well spotted. I am using a ONE piece copper gasket for the final assembly.
I cleaned up an old two piece of the same thickness only to use for the clearance and timing checks etc and would not use a two piece for the finished motor.

I used Arnetts at doncaster for the rebore but they wouldn't do the groove for the wire so Steve the owner took the block to one of his racing mates who did it.

As for which type to use it all depends on whether you intend tearing the motor down regular.
Copper is better for repeated strips as they are reusable but may weep oil.

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Re: head sealing

#28 PostAuthor: Toyboy » Tue Feb 26, 2013 11:13 am

zed1015 wrote:Copper is better for repeated strips as they are reusable but may weep oil.


Not half. I won't bother with them on my current build

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#29 PostAuthor: KWACKERZ1 » Tue Feb 26, 2013 11:37 am

Cheers Rob,
You confirmed what I thought my old 1260 motor had a copper one and would weep which is why I am wary of them.

One piece fiber then!!

Thanks
Phil

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#30 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Tue Feb 26, 2013 5:21 pm

With all the clearances sorted out it's time to put the top end on permanently.
Camchain 'O' ring filled with rtv, sliced flush with the cylinder top and outer oil stud 'O'rings installed ready for head gasket.
Hd cylinder studs are plain unplated steel (pre APE) so the 8 exposed ones get the heatshrink trick


PICT0328_zpsb5fc26c6.jpg


Copper headgasket gets a coat of spray-on sealer both sides and goes on after fitting the Liska idlers and tensioner.
Holes in headgasket were to small to go over the heatshrink so that was trimmed flush with the barrel face too.


PICT0329_zpsb8d0190a.jpg


A not so short while later the head is on courtesy of some APE nuts and copper washers throughout.
Cams run in new bearings with Liska top idler and APE billet mounting blocks completing the ensemble.
After some research i've identified the cams as Megacycle race turbo cams and found the timing figures to suit.
110 degrees inlet and 114 exhaust which make me very happy as my 109/113 guess couldn't have been any closer :D


PICT0331_zpsf86c5421.jpg


Nearly done. just waiting for the cam cover , a few nuts and bolts and an oilseal to finish it off.
Next pic's should see it finished and then on to the turbo and carb,

PICT0330_zpsfcca8ed7.jpg
Last edited by zed1015 on Sat Nov 11, 2023 4:29 pm, edited 3 times in total.


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