Hello Guest User,
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
My Ultimate Zed
Moderators: paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R, chrisu
Re: My Ultimate Zed
Think I've just done a sex wee in my undies, very nice
- Zomerset Zed
- 100Club
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 30th May 2014
- Location: Somerset
Re: My Ultimate Zed
Think I've just done a sex wee in my undies, very nice
"Sticky white love piss" - copyright League of Gentlemen
- Zomerset Zed
- 100Club
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 30th May 2014
- Location: Somerset
Running!
So after 3 1/2 years of obsessiveness here it is running, but not finished yet....
Major things to sort out are:
Paint
New front bottom yoke
Carburation
I have an A4 page full of snag list
Major things to sort out are:
Paint
New front bottom yoke
Carburation
I have an A4 page full of snag list
Re: My Ultimate Zed
Congratulations !!
Looks stunning , hope you get the "to do list" shorter and even finished!
Let the good times roll !
Cheers
Philippe
Looks stunning , hope you get the "to do list" shorter and even finished!
Let the good times roll !
Cheers
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
- Zomerset Zed
- 100Club
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 30th May 2014
- Location: Somerset
Re: My Ultimate Zed
Congratulations !!
Looks stunning , hope you get the "to do list" shorter and even finished!
Let the good times roll !
Cheers
Philippe
Cheers
Have made a start already, but still a lot of little jobs to do, but i will "finish" this bike soon as i have my next project already in the shed
- Zomerset Zed
- 100Club
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 30th May 2014
- Location: Somerset
Re: My Ultimate Zed
Feckin' beautiful
Thanks, it has Piggy parts inside
- wheelysteve
- Custard Cream
- Posts: 961
- Joined: 10th Mar 2014
- Location: Wokingham, Berks
Re: My Ultimate Zed
Proper job, as they say down your neck of the woods !!
1975 Z1B Candy Red/Blue
1975 Dogs Z1B
1976 Z900 A4
1977 Z650B1
1978 Z650B2
1978 KZ1000D Z1R
Yam Tracer 900GT
PUM 710
1975 Dogs Z1B
1976 Z900 A4
1977 Z650B1
1978 Z650B2
1978 KZ1000D Z1R
Yam Tracer 900GT
PUM 710
- Zomerset Zed
- 100Club
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 30th May 2014
- Location: Somerset
Re: My Ultimate Zed
My new bottom yoke fresh off the CNC mill:
After some dimensional/fitting checks all ok and off to Mikey with some other parts for polish/black anodising.
After my first real outing i appeared to have a huge oil leak from the cam chain tunnel, head barrels joint. I suspected the nitrile seal has got pinched during assembly, so off with the head and this is what ive found:
A bit more than a pinch!
It appears that some clown (me) has neglected to de-burr the edhes of the seal recess in the barrels after we did a skim after the liners were installed. How did i miss this!! So out with the die grinder, rags filling the tunnel and Henry on full suck:
Hopefully that will fix it and good job i had a spare seal.
Now on to the starter assembly saga:
When i first tried starting the engine all was fine and the bike fired up straight away albeit slowly as the engine is very tight with new rings/liners. Fast forward a few weeks and i started having problems with the main ring gear spinning on the crank and not engaging the clutch. On inspection it turns out that the problem is multi-fold:
I have the plain (non-keyed) rotor fitted to the old style keyed crank. This crank only has an M8 retaining bolt in the end rather than the M10 on the non-keyed crank. You cant get enough torque on to the M8 bolt to hold the rotor to the taper without a key in there.
I also discovered that there should be a rubberized washer between the ring gear and the main bearing on the crank. There was none on my bike and no mention of it in the Haynes manual. No surprises there then. The function of this washer is to create some friction between the ring gear and the bearing face to stop the gear free-wheeling. The washer comes in 3 different thicknesses 6.3/7.3/8.3 mm. But as of now i have not been able to find a new of even used washer anywhere. So i decided a bush fix was in order at this point if only temporary.
I did a measure up of the gear and gap (tricky) and worked out that a 35mm ID lip seal with the garter spring removed and the centre cut out may fit and provide the necessary friction:
The OD of the ring gear register is 35.5 mm so the remaining inner lip of the seal fits just right with a bit of persuasion and i got seals in 6,7 and 8 mm thickness although they all have slightly different OD's but all within the OD of the main bearing so they should locate ok.
I tried the 6mm first - little friction offered and it still slips< then the 7mm - better, then the 8mm which was too thick and caused the ring gear to continue to spin the starter motor once the engine fired - bizarrely!
So the 7mm, mummy bear it is.
Now to stop the rotor spinning on the crank. I put out a call and KeithZ1R graciously offered to do a rotor swap as he had a keyed one he was willing to let me have. On removing the rotor from the clutch i noticed 2 things; The retaining bolts were loose and the threads in the rotor were ovalled:
Bollocks!
I tried torquing up the bolts and they were fine and held well after running a tap down to the bottom. Keith was fine with this so the swap went ahead - Cheers Keith
Once i had the keyed rotor i procured an appropriate woodruff key from HPC gears and fitted the starter clutch to the keyed rotor. At this point i noticed that the pressed steel plate holding the rollers in laterally has been contacting the ring gear face and the plate was not flat but was splayed outwards and catching the gear. I know what i'll do, so i panel beat it all flat again. As i was doing this the thought crossed my mind that the plate had been bent out purposefully by a previous owner as it may have been impeding the movement of the rollers and sure enough when i torqued it all up 2 of the 3 rollers were locked solid. Bollocks!
At this point i went to the pub.
I ordered a new clutch assembly, a new needle roller bearing (irregular size) and a new 7.3 mm rubber washer from CMS. When they arrived as suspected the bearing and the rubber washer were the ones for the later engine design and did not fit. Oh well i need these for my race bike so they go into the parts bin. But the clutch does fit albeit without the locating dowel feature and i can tourue it up to specs fine with the rollers free. I now have 2 sets of spare rollers, springs and guides for some reason?
So time to put it all together and it works!
Or at least it did for a while, but now slips especially when a cold day. The rubber on the edge of the lip seal is very thin and this coupled with contraction of the rubber when cold allows the friction to be lost.
Double Bugger!
Now it seems the only way to really fix this is to obtain a proper rubber washer as this has plenty of rubber in contact with the bearing face and the steel part is only a flat washer.
So if anyone has a spare (any thickness) i would be most grateful even if its used as i can shim it little if required.
Its one of these with a 35 mm ID:
After some dimensional/fitting checks all ok and off to Mikey with some other parts for polish/black anodising.
After my first real outing i appeared to have a huge oil leak from the cam chain tunnel, head barrels joint. I suspected the nitrile seal has got pinched during assembly, so off with the head and this is what ive found:
A bit more than a pinch!
It appears that some clown (me) has neglected to de-burr the edhes of the seal recess in the barrels after we did a skim after the liners were installed. How did i miss this!! So out with the die grinder, rags filling the tunnel and Henry on full suck:
Hopefully that will fix it and good job i had a spare seal.
Now on to the starter assembly saga:
When i first tried starting the engine all was fine and the bike fired up straight away albeit slowly as the engine is very tight with new rings/liners. Fast forward a few weeks and i started having problems with the main ring gear spinning on the crank and not engaging the clutch. On inspection it turns out that the problem is multi-fold:
I have the plain (non-keyed) rotor fitted to the old style keyed crank. This crank only has an M8 retaining bolt in the end rather than the M10 on the non-keyed crank. You cant get enough torque on to the M8 bolt to hold the rotor to the taper without a key in there.
I also discovered that there should be a rubberized washer between the ring gear and the main bearing on the crank. There was none on my bike and no mention of it in the Haynes manual. No surprises there then. The function of this washer is to create some friction between the ring gear and the bearing face to stop the gear free-wheeling. The washer comes in 3 different thicknesses 6.3/7.3/8.3 mm. But as of now i have not been able to find a new of even used washer anywhere. So i decided a bush fix was in order at this point if only temporary.
I did a measure up of the gear and gap (tricky) and worked out that a 35mm ID lip seal with the garter spring removed and the centre cut out may fit and provide the necessary friction:
The OD of the ring gear register is 35.5 mm so the remaining inner lip of the seal fits just right with a bit of persuasion and i got seals in 6,7 and 8 mm thickness although they all have slightly different OD's but all within the OD of the main bearing so they should locate ok.
I tried the 6mm first - little friction offered and it still slips< then the 7mm - better, then the 8mm which was too thick and caused the ring gear to continue to spin the starter motor once the engine fired - bizarrely!
So the 7mm, mummy bear it is.
Now to stop the rotor spinning on the crank. I put out a call and KeithZ1R graciously offered to do a rotor swap as he had a keyed one he was willing to let me have. On removing the rotor from the clutch i noticed 2 things; The retaining bolts were loose and the threads in the rotor were ovalled:
Bollocks!
I tried torquing up the bolts and they were fine and held well after running a tap down to the bottom. Keith was fine with this so the swap went ahead - Cheers Keith
Once i had the keyed rotor i procured an appropriate woodruff key from HPC gears and fitted the starter clutch to the keyed rotor. At this point i noticed that the pressed steel plate holding the rollers in laterally has been contacting the ring gear face and the plate was not flat but was splayed outwards and catching the gear. I know what i'll do, so i panel beat it all flat again. As i was doing this the thought crossed my mind that the plate had been bent out purposefully by a previous owner as it may have been impeding the movement of the rollers and sure enough when i torqued it all up 2 of the 3 rollers were locked solid. Bollocks!
At this point i went to the pub.
I ordered a new clutch assembly, a new needle roller bearing (irregular size) and a new 7.3 mm rubber washer from CMS. When they arrived as suspected the bearing and the rubber washer were the ones for the later engine design and did not fit. Oh well i need these for my race bike so they go into the parts bin. But the clutch does fit albeit without the locating dowel feature and i can tourue it up to specs fine with the rollers free. I now have 2 sets of spare rollers, springs and guides for some reason?
So time to put it all together and it works!
Or at least it did for a while, but now slips especially when a cold day. The rubber on the edge of the lip seal is very thin and this coupled with contraction of the rubber when cold allows the friction to be lost.
Double Bugger!
Now it seems the only way to really fix this is to obtain a proper rubber washer as this has plenty of rubber in contact with the bearing face and the steel part is only a flat washer.
So if anyone has a spare (any thickness) i would be most grateful even if its used as i can shim it little if required.
Its one of these with a 35 mm ID:
Last edited by Zomerset Zed on Sun Dec 10, 2017 11:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Zomerset Zed
- 100Club
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 30th May 2014
- Location: Somerset
Re: My Ultimate Zed
I've got a few spare if needed
Wicked! Any chance you can send them off to me so i can try and get this thing working properly. Beer tokens and/or any spares i may have and you want in return of course?
Re: My Ultimate Zed
I hit the "post" button after you said about the cam tunnel O-ring.... since then you added the stuff about the starter washer - of which I have none, sorry
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!
- Zomerset Zed
- 100Club
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 30th May 2014
- Location: Somerset
Re: My Ultimate Zed
:oops: I hit the "post" button after you said about the cam tunnel O-ring.... since then you added the stuff about the starter washer - of which I have none, sorry
OK no sweat they seem to be unobtainable. I can get a used one from ebay or similar if i buy a used alternator or similar, otherwise i am stuck
Re: My Ultimate Zed
New one in Spain. Expensive but it is new and its the thick one so you can smooth it down if necessary!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-KAWASAKI ... SwsXVZZhyv
AL
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NOS-KAWASAKI ... SwsXVZZhyv
AL
1981 J1
- Zomerset Zed
- 100Club
- Posts: 239
- Joined: 30th May 2014
- Location: Somerset
Re: My Ultimate Zed
New one in Spain. Expensive but it is new and its the thick one so you can smooth it down if necessary!
Cheers. Don,t know why this one didn't show up on my ebay search and its the cheapest i've seen so far another one in Holland for 40 something euro and one in NZ for $70!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 47 guests