Z1OwnersClub GB

Fantastic!
When you gonna let me come and have a look in person?

When you gonna let me come and have a look in person?

You are welcome anytime of course, but i'm about to take the front end off to extend the forks and fit new bottom yoke and also going to be sending the bodywork off for painting in the next couple of weeks, so maybe wait until i get the paint back and front end rebuilt...

Have you got any experience of setting up standard VM carbs with pod filters?

Zomerset Zed wrote:Have you got any experience of setting up standard VM carbs with pod filters?

He's got plenty of experience of eating all of your biscuits............

No direct experience with VM’s but done plenty of carb changes over the years.
I’d go up 10% on mains & maybe a size on pilot to start, depending on engine set up.
Chocky biscuits are best!

He's got plenty of experience of eating all of your biscuits............

Don't remember getting any chocky biscuits when i was last round yours (admittedly a very long time ago now). But there is always chocolate hobnobs in our house!

No direct experience with VM’s but done plenty of carb changes over the years.
I’d go up 10% on mains & maybe a size on pilot to start, depending on engine set up.
Chocky biscuits are best!

Currently got 130 mains in and i cant remember what size pilots, so i will have to pull the carbs off and check. No issue with mains apart from probably being a bit rich, but once the needle is lifted a smidge on the throttle it cleans up nicely. Its all in the pilot circuit and and may need bigger jets i'm guessing.

I will put out a call, see if anyone has appropriate pilot jet sizes.

Need to list the spec of your engine but 130 mains sounds too big if you are using 26mm or 28mm VM's.

Need to list the spec of your engine but 130 mains sounds too big if you are using 26mm or 28mm VM's.

Thanks for replying zed1015.

Agree 130's are probably too big.

Engine spec:

1105 Wiseco at 10.3:1
GPZ unitrac cams at 107 timing on both
GPZ unitrac inlet (36mm) and ex (32mm) valves
Shims under buckets
Open Harris type pipe
APE pod filters
Elektronik Sachse ignition system
Dnatech 3 Ohm mini coils and leads
NGK B8ES plugs

That's it i think...

Get rid of those NGK spark plugs

I think these are better
IRIDIUM BR8E1X-S
NIPPONDENSO W24ES-U

I feel sure other members will be telling you later

Zomerset Zed wrote:

Need to list the spec of your engine but 130 mains sounds too big if you are using 26mm or 28mm VM's.

Thanks for replying zed1015.

Agree 130's are probably too big.

Engine spec:

1105 Wiseco at 10.3:1
GPZ unitrac cams at 107 timing on both
GPZ unitrac inlet (36mm) and ex (32mm) valves
Shims under buckets
Open Harris type pipe
APE pod filters
Elektronik Sachse ignition system
Dnatech 3 Ohm mini coils and leads
NGK B8ES plugs

That's it i think...

You want NGK B9ES plugs ( nothing wrong with genuine NGK'S I use them in all mine for years no problems).
As for carbs setting, there is no set in stone setting for your specs just an educated guess at where to start to get in the ball park.
I read on your other thread you have VM 26's ?
You need 28's at least ( Z1R, MK2, GS1000S or bored out 26's ) to get the most from that spec motor.
These will make a big difference.
On 28's Stock settings to start with around 120 -125 mains as a base line.
If you stick with the 26's then 117'5 - 120 mains.
Ideally you want 0.6mm air corrector jets (LEDAR/Armstrong or home made) fitting to smooth out the flat spot off idle caused by the extra air from the free flowing pods .
These are better than masking the problem by fitting bigger pilots and/or lifting jet needles.

Have been looking around for a while for some air corrector jets that i can adapt to fit without much success. Closest i have found are from Allens Performance Mikuni:

They have 0.60mm in-stock but they are M4 thread which is too small to fit the air passage which is 5mm (from memory). I am assuming the way you would do this is to drill out the existing jets to as large as possible, then tap an M5 thread in the air passage and screw in an M5 jet. I think i have read a post some time ago where you did exactly this. I could make some out of M5 threaded brass stock, but i have bugger all time at the moment to spend in the shed breaking drill bits

I want to persevere with these carbs even though they are 26's, but i can see me putting something better on in the future once i have the necessary funds.

I actually have a set of 33mm brand new CR's but they are for my race bike.

Thanks for the info, but if you know anywhere i can obtain some 0.6mm air jets, please let me know? I have searched around for Ledar/Armstrong and found nothing......

Get rid of those NGK spark plugs

I think these are better
IRIDIUM BR8E1X-S
NIPPONDENSO W24ES-U

I feel sure other members will be telling you later

I have used ND Iridium plugs previously and had bad experiences with them causing misfires and basically behaving poorly at higher CR's over 11:1, so i would struggle going back to them especially price wise. I ended up going back to bog-standard dual electrode NGK's and never had issues since.

I will try some 9's out though....

Zomerset Zed wrote:
They have 0.60mm in-stock but they are M4 thread which is too small to fit the air passage which is 5mm (from memory). I am assuming the way you would do this is to drill out the existing jets to as large as possible, then tap an M5 thread in the air passage and screw in an M5 jet.

Thanks for the info, but if you know anywhere i can obtain some 0.6mm air jets, please let me know? I have searched around for Ledar/Armstrong and found nothing......

Yes! they are threaded M5 and the passage in the carb mouth just needs tapping (the hole at the mouth is already big enough)
There are no jets to drill out.
The existing orifice steps down to 1.6mm but this is set back in the passageway further in than you need to tap so removing the corrector jet in the future returns the carb back to stock as you haven't drilled out the original restriction.
It is the air bleed to the emulsion tube that they go in.
Last set I bought were from Grumpy1260 (Chris Tombleson) on Ebay so contacting him may get what you need.
If he hasn't got any for the Zed a set for a GS1000 will also do the trick

Thanks zed1015, i'll give him a try

At this point things were happening very quickly and i was building the bike up quicker than i can photograph it, so apologies for the lack of photos, i will endeavor to take some more detailed shots over the next week or so.

I was building the wiring loom from scratch as the old loom is a right dogs breakfast of broken, hard wires covered in filth with missing connectors and seeing as the original bike had points, separate reg and rec and that all the electrical componentry is modern stuff it is less work to build a new one on the bike.

I started by knocking up a wiring diagram on Autocad:



Electric are very boring and tedious. That's why i am a MECHANICAL engineer. It took me a bout 4 hours to do it referring to standard Z1000, ZXR750, ZX6R schematics and the various wiring diagrams that came with the ignition etc.

It took me about a week of nights in the shed to complete.

Time to sling on the front calipers, exhaust and rear sets and a load of other gubbins:



Then measured up for hydraulic lines:





I opted for Venhill lines as I wanted to keep the almost British theme. They are a bit pricey but i like their swaged nut and replaceable system so i can change the line length easily if i want to extend the forks much. But i allowed +50mm on the front lines to allow for this. I also have some better plans to route the front lines. More on that later....

nice bike .carb wise id be looking for some 29mm smoothbores ,nothing less ,they proper liven that motor up ,+ have the bike set up on a dyno ,money well spent