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HowieD's 'arris

Work in Progress

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Pigford
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#106 PostAuthor: Pigford » Tue Jul 26, 2016 9:31 am

What did you do for chain tensioning in the end (can't be arsed to read back & find it) :oops:
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#107 PostAuthor: HowieD » Tue Jul 26, 2016 11:15 am

Pigford wrote:What did you do for chain tensioning in the end (can't be arsed to read back & find it) :oops:


Well I started off with one of these:

Image

bit it didn't fit quite right and rubbed on the chain,

Image
so I had it modified:

Image
Image
Image
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#108 PostAuthor: Pigford » Tue Jul 26, 2016 11:35 am

Neat - is that from Monster Craftsman... looks similar to mine :|
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#109 PostAuthor: HowieD » Sun Sep 18, 2016 9:59 pm

Pigford wrote:Neat - is that from Monster Craftsman... looks similar to mine :|


yes it is a Monster Craftsman one - most of it anyway.
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Finished (mostly)

#110 PostAuthor: HowieD » Sun Sep 18, 2016 10:11 pm

So on Thursday Horace passed the second MOT (after a shameful 358 Miles since last years MOT) and after a ride around the back roads of Lincolnshire for about 100 miles then parking up and not needing to do anything in the way of quick fixes or feel the need to change anything else - I reckons that's mission accomplished. Anything else is a update and / or improvement and can wait for the winter.

Image

Image
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Lights that LIGHT

#111 PostAuthor: HowieD » Mon Oct 31, 2016 3:50 pm

so after watching some people around the roads with H4 type lights and nearly being cut up with a "dint see you" sort of hand signal....

Take these and be dazzled instead. City 5W vs DRL Halo before and after all on the same bike:

Image

Plus there is a built in indicator in there too
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#112 PostAuthor: Is Vic There » Mon Oct 31, 2016 8:01 pm

There good, where is the built in indicator?
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#113 PostAuthor: HowieD » Mon Oct 31, 2016 8:19 pm

Is Vic There wrote:There good, where is the built in indicator?


I'll try and get a picture but I'm the mean time try and imagine that the lights of the Halo are individual LEDs - every other one is orange and is the indicator part.

When the indicator is active the white ones go out and the orange ones flash as indicators would.
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Re: HowieD's 'arris

#114 PostAuthor: HowieD » Fri Apr 28, 2017 9:17 am

So.
After a few months of running I found the oil consumption is pretty awefull despite haveing a full overhaul of the engine afew years ago - then into storage while the frame was being sorted out.
A round trip to Kings Lynn and back - 146 miles used the oil from the top mark to the bottom mark on the Sight Glass not at all good.
Knowing what a Harris is like, I knew I'd not be able to lift the head with the engine in the frame.
So a bit of research on the www and I found a suitable replacment engine - a Z1000G (USA Fuel injection).
IMG_5645_zpsozdhhwvo.jpg

Some measurements showed the Fuel Injected Head puts the Carbs too far back for the frame cross tubes so a MkII Head was bought to suit.
2016-07-10 19.12.41.jpg


New Engine stripped completly and rebuilt with a 1075CC bore and Wiseco Pistons plus all new original or better parts
2017-01-05 14.01.12.jpg
:
2017-03-02 10.51.23.jpg


Anyway Engine out:
2017-01-05 12.54.50.jpg


then a bit of swapping over of the nessassary:
2017-01-05 14.01.12.jpg
Attachments
2017-03-02 10.51.15.jpg
Last edited by HowieD on Fri Apr 28, 2017 9:48 am, edited 3 times in total.
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Re: HowieD's 'arris

#115 PostAuthor: HowieD » Fri Apr 28, 2017 9:28 am

hum for some reason I couldn't add much more to that post so here we go with part II:


New Engine in:

2017-04-26 10.28.26.jpg
2017-04-26 09.50.55.jpg


And new carbs to suit the larger engine capacity - CR31 ultrasonically cleaned and overhauled.
2017-04-26 09.55.38.jpg


While it was being worked on there was the oppertunity for some other fixes - Pingle fuel tap which required cutting the Tank Base;
2017-04-26 10.28.32.jpg

Low Profile Oil / Air Seperator and a cheeky little filter:
2017-04-26 10.28.40-1.jpg


just waiting for some Jets to arrive that are closer to what is needed then on the road for some running in then off to a Dyno - still TBN !! for propper setting up.
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Re: HowieD's 'arris

#116 PostAuthor: HowieD » Fri Apr 28, 2017 9:45 am

Old Engine strip down:
All the Valve Guides and Valve Stems were worn beyond the limits and the VG Oil seals were hardened. So that is the cause of the oil consumption.

2017-03-02 10.37.45.jpg
2017-03-02 10.37.56.jpg
2017-03-02 10.49.57.jpg
2017-03-02 10.53.01.jpg
2017-03-02 11.22.47.jpg


The Block has been bored out to the first oversize and all Valves & Guides will be replaced - already bought along with a first oversize piston kit.
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Re: HowieD's 'arris

#117 PostAuthor: HowieD » Sat Apr 14, 2018 6:01 pm

Greetings !!!

It's been a while eh ?? - looks like a year since the last post - shocking.

So an update - Out on Horace in June 2017 and after about five miles things get a bit slippy in the Foot peg department. so pulling over to a handy lay-by finds oil is oozing through the new "K&N" type oil breather when I blip the Throttle.
2017-04-26 10.28.40.jpg

So a quick wipe down and back to HQ for a change of Breather.
Luckily there's the Endurance mentality to allowing quick carb removal:
2017-06-16 15.40.20.jpg

A cuppa-tea and a clean up, big long silicone breather pipe reinstalled, then out again to see how far we can get.

Well pulled in at the previous Handy Lay-by shows the outside of the engine to be oil free - YIPEE - on we go a further 8 miles and a sudden loss of power and a bit of a clanking going on from the #1 cylinder area - not so yipee.
Very carefully return to the HQ for some investigations - when started and running there is air blowing from the #1 Carb starting port making it a bit suspicious of the inlet valve passing.
eBay is a wonderful thing and a £20 endoscope attachment for an iPad delivered a few days later shows that the inlet valve has been bouncing off the top of the piston:
No 1 cylinder 2017-06-27 09.15.23.jpg
No 1 cylinder 2017-06-27 09.15.23.jpg (61.49 KiB) Viewed 948 times

The head is lifted and #1 inlet Valve is indeed bent. The Head is a bit special and has had a bit of porting work and stainless valves fitted. No idea where I'd get a single Stainless Valve from so after a measuring to ensure they were standard, a full set of Valves and Springs on the way from Z-Power which is where we are today.

Not sure why a valve would bend after about 18 miles (total) of running - any ideas ????

More updates in less than a year (hopefully).

H :idea wie
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Re: HowieD's 'arris

#118 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Sat Apr 14, 2018 6:19 pm

HowieD wrote:
Not sure why a valve would bend after about 18 miles (total) of running - any ideas ????

More updates in less than a year (hopefully).

H :idea wie

If it's just the one valve and everything else, timing, springs etc check out ok then you need to check the guide clearance.
If that one is slightly on the tight side it will nip the stem when hot and the valve won't return under spring pressure once it's been opened by the cam and the piston will hit it.
A light hone of the guide should sort it out and if the valve is stainless it could have been straightened if the bend wasn't too severe.

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Re: HowieD's 'arris

#119 PostAuthor: HowieD » Sat Apr 14, 2018 7:33 pm

zed1015 wrote:If it's just the one valve and everything else, timing, springs etc check out ok then you need to check the guide clearance.
If that one is slightly on the tight side it will nip the stem when hot and the valve won't return under spring pressure once it's been opened by the cam and the piston will hit it.
A light hone of the guide should sort it out and if the valve is stainless it could have been straightened if the bend wasn't too severe.


Thanks for the info. I didn't want to risk another episode later on in life so thought returning to standard metal valves would be a better way forward.

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Re: HowieD's 'arris

#120 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Sat Apr 14, 2018 9:16 pm

Shouldn't have a problem with stainless valves ,they are superior to the stock items and are one piece not two.
Which valves have you bought.
Some of those cheap £90 a set pattern valves have issues where the stem is too long with the collet groove slightly higher up the stem leading to problems with stem height and valve clearances that can only be cured by trimming of the stem, collets and retainers.
Have had to sort a few heads that have had no clearance once they have been fitted.
If you must change the valves then i'd just do the inlets, check the installed heights first and hone the offending guide if you can find no other cause otherwise you may have the same thing happen again.


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