Z1OwnersClub GB

The Valves i have bought are these from Z-Power: Valves full set of 8 Part number 12004/5Z1000A/D/E.

Home again!
So after a very long time in the workshop; Horace is full of Engine where there was a big hole.
So hopfully I'll have it all back together with the Carbs & Wiring loom over the next few weeks.

It's been away for so long thats a Car Port has grown where it was an open space previosuly - that should keep the rain off and save the constant wheeling in & out of the shed in a "rain stopped play' manor.

Well done lad - she's looking ACE

very smart Howie. what's the exhaust? any RHS pics? ... m

8 Valve Mark wrote:very smart Howie. what's the exhaust? any RHS pics? ... m

The exhaust is all hand made from Stainless Tube. Designed to give mid range and descent gound clearance (Always cringe going over sleeping policemen). Then a Laser End can.
The below pics are when it was being lined up - tac welded into place - it's all springs holding it together now.

Regarding the Exhaust - it seems to be a headache at the moment as the Silencer flaps about a bit and a bolt on the Swinging arm will hit it on full bump. I can push the Silencer out of the way but it will move back.



Plus the welded on bracket is split and soft metal.


I tried to tighten the Collector Tube by cutting some slots and adding a clamp to tighten it all up but it's still a bit loose and swings about a bit.



I think the real trouble is the lack of a middle mount as its the Silencer and the Headers (that are on springs) also the Frame end of the curved bracket is only held on with small diameter bolts so there's no real strength to hold it in place.



I have some large Diameter clamps for the Silencer but need some idea for the Frame end - previously it was a bit of metal and a P-Clip that managed for about 20 years - if only I could find it !!



Anyone know of a sort of Double P-Clip 29mm Diameter ??? I'm open to ideas for Exhaust securing.

Such things exist Howie

https://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/prod ... 304-ah-085

Gus

I have three of those laser end cans. Each has a; semi captive, sliding, tapped bar within the welded on top hat mounting bracket. It stops it splitting which is what you get with point contact of a nut and bolt.
I had to make a shim for the joint between link pipe and end can. I think i cut it from a bean can with tin snips if i remember.

Would a rectangular (rhombus) bracket from the two frame bolts to the end can give it any more stability. Nice piece of 2mm stainless, with relief holes in, would be in keeping i guess.

AL

Thanks for your replies. There was some slack and the end can can be pulled up. Work in progress to test the bump and see if the exhaust leaks at the headers.

Winter update:

So I pulled my finger out and found I had some parts already to sort out the Silencer Mounting. I had a large diameter clamp that just required the welded bracket sawing off and the welds filing off to allow it to fit. The stay was I thing supplied with a Harris Works Collection exhaust in the 90's ! Never throw anything away eh ? the Frame Clamp was from a HOG Spares Supplier - top quality chrome and in three pieces. This is just a trial fit then I'll tidy it up



Then time to start up and the bugger just wouldn't catch !! Finally had it running on ONE cylinder. Tested everything and it came down to no spark on 2-3 - half the Dyna-S had packed up and a dirty starter jet on #4. Luckily in a moment of madness I had bought an Ignition from Electro-Sache that did away with the mechanical advance. I wasn't going to fit it till Horace was up and running but heyho - needs must I suppose



It was a bit odd as with the Ignition powered the coils don't warm up and there's no voltage drop either so that's good.



Runs nicely now and going to properly sort out the loom and exhaust brackets over the winter.

Also fitted a MOSFET Rec/Reg while I was at it

Well it's been too long eh !!
many developments and near selling but since the last post so long ago a few changes have had to be made - both engine wise and riding position. Many a pretty penny has been spent !

Updates to follow

The saga continues:

this one is about the riding position. It's been that long since I was on the road with it that I can't ride comfortably any more and the riding position was so uncomfortable that I could only ride for about 20 minutes. I didn't want to compromise or spend money on some bars and foot pegs that wouldn't be really suitable so I found some multi adjustable ABM handle bars from Bikemart - top quality German CNC made.


https://www.bikermart.co.uk/ABM-Multiclip-Tour-Clip-On-Adjustable-Sportsbike-Clip-On-Set

First trial fit went well apart from a missing bolt, but there was plenty of adjustment to get comfy.

The new bars in a comfortable position required the fairing to be raised to save my knuckles.

The way the fairing is mounted allowed it to be pivoted around the rear mounting point with two plates made to raise the front - luckily the spacing was the same



a notch filed into the existing to clear the top bearing ring:



And a quick splash of red paint

Resulting with:

Now then, the foot pegs were a different matter. There are plenty of solutions for fully adjustable pegs but all that I could find still needed mounting plates made so they would fit. So looking around for solutions I found some 3D Printed templates:



but still plates would need making to these patterns.

But eventually I found someone who made the whole lot as a sideline but was recovering from a serious accident and would need a year till he could get back to work.

So I waited !

I sent mine over so he could confirm the mounting hole spacings and after a few weeks received these beautiful works of art:





That fitted perfectly:

Running the engine is a differnt matter and hopfully I'll be able to report some success in a few days - hopefully not months or years !