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J - Refresh
Moderators: paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R, chrisu
Re: J - Refresh
A work-a-round for the NLA bottom bushes on those forks is either 900R or Uni 1100 i forget which but if you send Phil at ZPower the dimensions of youre bushes he will remember. There are at least two different versions of the rebate at the base of the legs that i know of hence measuring and possibly a photo may help him.
I will add a paragraph to the; 'fork springs' and emulator thread which you may find useful. Some recent developments,.. just when you thought there was nothing left to say about forks
AL
I will add a paragraph to the; 'fork springs' and emulator thread which you may find useful. Some recent developments,.. just when you thought there was nothing left to say about forks
AL
1981 J1
Re: J - Refresh
Thanks Al. I’ve read your thread many times and will do so again but was hoping not to go the emulators route. I’ll not be racing it but any improvement over stock I can make will be good.
Someone posted about the lower bushes on arsebook a while ago so I got them ordered straight away.
Someone posted about the lower bushes on arsebook a while ago so I got them ordered straight away.
Asphalt Cowboy Z1100R, 1981 Z1000J
Re: J - Refresh
More paint trials and tribulations.
Back in the summer I started to paint the calipers. When I stripped them back I made a very careful note of the finish which was, to say the least, tenacious but also not a bright satin. So many restorations I have seen get this colour either too bright or too thick. I ended up trying two different methods.
The first picture is Simoniz satin black tough paint. Supposedly good for up to 150 degrees I just don't trust it. I sprayed it according to the instructions and left it in the sun for a couple of weeks. I then tried some paint stripper on a test piece and it virtually washed off within seconds of application. It also looks too bright. See what you think?
The front calipers I did in PJ1 500 degree case paint which I then baked on. Aren't gas barbecues wonderful.
This curing process had the effect of dulling the paint quite considerably to the point that it looked quite matt. I have left them for a while as I pondered my next move until a brainwave happened...
Actually I got them covered in greasy fingerprints so wiped them with a microfibre cloth and noticed a dusty residue on the cloth. I continued cleaning them and used the tiniest bit of liquid wax to help with picking up the dust. I must say this is a very close, hard to tell apart, finish to what was there.
All the time I am doing these paint jobs I am mindful of being able to do them again at home if running repairs or repaints are required at any time in the future.
Back in the summer I started to paint the calipers. When I stripped them back I made a very careful note of the finish which was, to say the least, tenacious but also not a bright satin. So many restorations I have seen get this colour either too bright or too thick. I ended up trying two different methods.
The first picture is Simoniz satin black tough paint. Supposedly good for up to 150 degrees I just don't trust it. I sprayed it according to the instructions and left it in the sun for a couple of weeks. I then tried some paint stripper on a test piece and it virtually washed off within seconds of application. It also looks too bright. See what you think?
The front calipers I did in PJ1 500 degree case paint which I then baked on. Aren't gas barbecues wonderful.
This curing process had the effect of dulling the paint quite considerably to the point that it looked quite matt. I have left them for a while as I pondered my next move until a brainwave happened...
Actually I got them covered in greasy fingerprints so wiped them with a microfibre cloth and noticed a dusty residue on the cloth. I continued cleaning them and used the tiniest bit of liquid wax to help with picking up the dust. I must say this is a very close, hard to tell apart, finish to what was there.
All the time I am doing these paint jobs I am mindful of being able to do them again at home if running repairs or repaints are required at any time in the future.
Asphalt Cowboy Z1100R, 1981 Z1000J
Re: J - Refresh
I had a message from Buzzard today that he has stripped the engine in readiness to take to R D Cox for blast and paint.
The sump is always a good place to look for signs of your engines health. He said it looked pretty good.
The sump is always a good place to look for signs of your engines health. He said it looked pretty good.
Asphalt Cowboy Z1100R, 1981 Z1000J
Re: J - Refresh
Things have moved along a bit. Lockdown is back but the garage is cold and anyway things are very busy at work.
The bike is up on the bench in a very crowded garage so it’s mainly the right hand side that is getting attention.
I assembled and painted the footrest hanger. What a PITA trying to fill the black sections without going over the lines. The oil sticker arrived today so I fitted that.
The footrests are pretty good, I may just leave them. Even the nuts and washers are probably not bad enough to re plate.
The bike is up on the bench in a very crowded garage so it’s mainly the right hand side that is getting attention.
I assembled and painted the footrest hanger. What a PITA trying to fill the black sections without going over the lines. The oil sticker arrived today so I fitted that.
The footrests are pretty good, I may just leave them. Even the nuts and washers are probably not bad enough to re plate.
Asphalt Cowboy Z1100R, 1981 Z1000J
Re: J - Refresh
When I pulled the engine earlier this year I noticed a damaged fin on the barrel. I have no idea how it happened as it must be the hardest for anything to get at. It’s almost like it was a stress crack as there was no other sign to give me a clue.
Buzzard sent me some pictures before sending the bits to Cox for paint. His welder is genius.
Buzzard sent me some pictures before sending the bits to Cox for paint. His welder is genius.
Asphalt Cowboy Z1100R, 1981 Z1000J
Re: J - Refresh
Got to agree with Chris , the guy I use is a coded aircraft welder for 28 years at British Airways. Jez the welded, as I call him, top bloke. He does all my welding then I machine/ fettle it back to original. Buzzard@thebuzzworkz
Every man should have a shed (for bikes obviously..)
Re: J - Refresh
A surprise 17 degrees today meant satin black was an option.
I got the other footrest hangar done and discovered that a fingernail is best for sharpening up the edges.
I may have to redo the right hand side?
A little bit each day
I got the other footrest hangar done and discovered that a fingernail is best for sharpening up the edges.
I may have to redo the right hand side?
A little bit each day
Asphalt Cowboy Z1100R, 1981 Z1000J
Re: J - Refresh
I was determined to get something done today but am feeling rather delicate after a family party. Only our household involved but it’s rare to have a Saturday when we are all here and no one is due at work the next day.
I did manage to get the swing arm finally installed and tightened though. When I first put it together I wasn’t happy about the bearing bushes. As you will see from the photo there was some wear of the case hardening so I bought new as well as seals.
I did say I would post a close up of the refurbished brake hose. These were very good anyway but had tarnished particularly on the protective spring over the years. Mikey’s plating man is very good.
Once all back together I took some pictures in better light.
One thing I don’t think I can refurbish successfully is the rear shocks. I know they are pants anyway and that the damping disappeared many years ago but I wanted to get it as good as possible for display. I will invest in some lookalike shocks when it comes to riding.
The KYB sticker is not replicated by anyone, I have asked. The 1077 refers to the part number and I suppose it’s just not worth anyone investing in manufacture for a limited number of sales. I can’t see many others wanting them.
They are pretty good though, the springs are a little tarnished but that will have to do. I’m not going to invest any money into them.
The rubber hose from the fluid reservoir to the rear master cylinder is held in place with 2 hose clips. I had thought that they had been replaced at some point as they are marked USA. They are stainless but have a zinc coated screw which has tarnished. I found they are still available from Kawasaki but neglected to look out for a superseded part number.
These turned up.
I know they will work well but if I can I will refurbish the originals.
I took one apart.
The screws will go off for plating with a lot of other parts still to be done next year.
I did manage to get the swing arm finally installed and tightened though. When I first put it together I wasn’t happy about the bearing bushes. As you will see from the photo there was some wear of the case hardening so I bought new as well as seals.
I did say I would post a close up of the refurbished brake hose. These were very good anyway but had tarnished particularly on the protective spring over the years. Mikey’s plating man is very good.
Once all back together I took some pictures in better light.
One thing I don’t think I can refurbish successfully is the rear shocks. I know they are pants anyway and that the damping disappeared many years ago but I wanted to get it as good as possible for display. I will invest in some lookalike shocks when it comes to riding.
The KYB sticker is not replicated by anyone, I have asked. The 1077 refers to the part number and I suppose it’s just not worth anyone investing in manufacture for a limited number of sales. I can’t see many others wanting them.
They are pretty good though, the springs are a little tarnished but that will have to do. I’m not going to invest any money into them.
The rubber hose from the fluid reservoir to the rear master cylinder is held in place with 2 hose clips. I had thought that they had been replaced at some point as they are marked USA. They are stainless but have a zinc coated screw which has tarnished. I found they are still available from Kawasaki but neglected to look out for a superseded part number.
These turned up.
I know they will work well but if I can I will refurbish the originals.
I took one apart.
The screws will go off for plating with a lot of other parts still to be done next year.
Asphalt Cowboy Z1100R, 1981 Z1000J
Re: J - Refresh
Cold, dark and damp in the garage by the time I get home so have to make progress with parts collecting.
I've had some good results lately
I've had some good results lately
Asphalt Cowboy Z1100R, 1981 Z1000J
Re: J - Refresh
Where did you get the seat lock from? Everywhere I look it says "Product not available".
A2 1979-80. A1 1980-now
Re: J - Refresh
Where else would you get a genuine part(henon).
I'll get me coat.
I'll get me coat.
Z1-B, 400bhp ZX1000NGF
90% of questions that begin "Why..." can be answered with "Because people are stupid."
90% of questions that begin "Why..." can be answered with "Because people are stupid."
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