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How I've come to own a modified Z1000J and it's refurb

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1962royp
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Z1000j

#31 PostAuthor: 1962royp » Fri Oct 28, 2016 10:35 am

Its a Unitrac then
I changed an engine no last year no probs at all.
Not even a letter
GPZ1100 B2 owner
GPz 305 project
99% Gpz1100 unitrac Nearly there runs just needs paint.
1100 Zephyr Project.
1981 KZ1000 LTD

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zed1015
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Re: Z1000j

#32 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Fri Oct 28, 2016 12:12 pm

1962royp wrote:Its a Unitrac then
I changed an engine no last year no probs at all.
Not even a letter


You were lucky.
Typical DVLA.
Pot luck whether you get a jobsworth when you send in the V5.

They introduced this policy to stop people putting big engines in smart cars to avoid Londons congestion charges.
As with all things DVLA it isn't specific to low emission vehicles so mucks up everyone else too.
Had to do it a couple of times now with a letter from the testing station confirming the new engine number and capacity.
No big deal really but just another thing that can delay getting the V5 back if you forget or aren't lucky.

1962royp
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Z1000j

#33 PostAuthor: 1962royp » Fri Oct 28, 2016 1:50 pm

I taxed and Mot tested mine before i changed the number on the log book plus the reg doc was in my name already.
GPZ1100 B2 owner
GPz 305 project
99% Gpz1100 unitrac Nearly there runs just needs paint.
1100 Zephyr Project.
1981 KZ1000 LTD

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zed1015
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Re: Z1000j

#34 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Fri Oct 28, 2016 3:49 pm

1962royp wrote:I taxed and Mot tested mine before i changed the number on the log book plus the reg doc was in my name already.


Twice I've sent V5's off that were already in my name (owned the bikes for years) and they sent them back wanting proof of engine change from a garage.
Like I said, sounds like you got lucky.
Typical inconsistent DVLA service.

Julian_Boolean
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#35 PostAuthor: Julian_Boolean » Fri Oct 28, 2016 4:11 pm

Hopefully my engine isn't full of stolen parts then.

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zed1015
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#36 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Fri Oct 28, 2016 6:51 pm

Julian_Boolean wrote:Hopefully my engine isn't full of stolen parts then.


Why? only the cases are numbered.
Don't see what the problem is.
someone has upgraded the engine to 1100r spec whilst sensibly retaining the original matching J engine numbers.
Couldn't really get any better.

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#37 PostAuthor: Julian_Boolean » Sun Oct 30, 2016 12:01 pm

Torqued down my cam cap bolts to 6 ft lbs with the lovely new torque wrench that Amazon delivered this morning.
Is it worth loctiteing these when I reassemble the top end?
What washers do people use under the head nuts?
What piston ring compressors do peopke use, as I need to buy some.

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#38 PostAuthor: zed1015 » Sun Oct 30, 2016 4:36 pm

The 4 outer head nuts need copper washers as these need to seal against the head because the 4 outer studs are also situated in the head feed oil galleries.
The other 8 are steel from the factory but most of us go copper for the lot as it gives consistent torque settings.
Make sure you anneal any new copper washers before fitting as they are hardened due to the stamping process.
Heat and leave to cool or heat and quench, it makes no difference but quenching removes the oxides and leaves the washers nice and clean.

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#39 PostAuthor: Julian_Boolean » Sun Oct 30, 2016 5:18 pm

Thanks, any view on ring compressors, I'm tempted to make some out of 75mm plastic pipe and use cable ties to compress them.

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Al
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#40 PostAuthor: Al » Sun Oct 30, 2016 9:10 pm

I have used those large yogurt pots cut down with cable ties round them. They have a ready made lip to the top to butt the bottom of the cylinder sleeves.
Dont loctite the cam cap bolts they will self lock as they are, and its not a case of them coming unscrewed. Normally you cant get the bastards out without taking the thread in the head with them!!
Take a really good look at the bolts with a magnifying glass and see if any are 'waist-ing' where the thread meets the plain shank. They are available although expensive and they are high tensile though you would not know it looking at some of them.

AL
1981 J1

Julian_Boolean
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#41 PostAuthor: Julian_Boolean » Thu Nov 03, 2016 10:14 am

Not much progress this week, I've been cleaning the old gasket from the bottom of the barrel, which is boring and time consuming.
Contacted a local machine shop about repairing the threads but he was so vague on the phone that I won't be using him, a colleague used him for some work on a Lambretta and confirmed he was unable to do the work in the timescale that he gave.
Probably take it to Chris at Grumpy 1260 (as suggested by RobW) but I can't get over there until next Saturday, so I'll give Chris a call on Monday.

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#42 PostAuthor: Ultim8pc » Thu Nov 03, 2016 10:57 am

tlc wrote:Could they be Rex side panels?

Don't think so, they are too square to be those I think.

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Gus
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#43 PostAuthor: Gus » Thu Nov 03, 2016 11:55 am

GT750 panels
"Set the GRINDER on it"

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#44 PostAuthor: Julian_Boolean » Sat Nov 05, 2016 4:13 pm

Cleaned up the combustion chambers, took about 2 hours, photo on facebook

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#45 PostAuthor: Julian_Boolean » Sat Nov 12, 2016 4:22 pm

Today I failed to get the barrel back on, so the helpful RobW popped round and helped me take the engine out so I could get the barrels put back on, Rob looked at the scoring in my barrel and said it needs reboring (I was in denial about this) so 1170 here we come, as this will be cheaper than Kawasaki oversize pistons and rings, unless someone knows a cheap source of 1mm oversize Unitrak pistons and rings.


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