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Z1000ST Restauration

Work in Progress

Moderators: KeithZ1R, chrisu, paul doran, Taffus

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PAULJAC47
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Re: Z1000ST Restauration

#16 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Sat Nov 11, 2017 7:28 pm

Good to have you on board Phillipe,sure you will be a welcome contributor to our forum and our club if the fancy takes you to you join The Z1 owners club...always good to see a different view..Cheers Paul j
PAULJAC47,,,,,"She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid."
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Re: Z1000ST Restauration

#17 PostAuthor: Desperate Stan » Sun Nov 19, 2017 8:41 pm

Good work Phillipe! ,I do like your parts dryer/organiser! very jealous at the size of your workshop too.

Philippe
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Re: Z1000ST Restauration

#18 PostAuthor: Philippe » Sat Nov 25, 2017 8:27 am

Hello guys

time for an update!
I continued work on the engine.
The new piston rings arrived from Germany. They're not original Kawasaki alltough I allways say "buy original Kawasaki parts". This time I bought them from Scheuerlein because I heard good critics from the quality of their parts. We'll see.
After removing the old piston rings I cleaned out the piston grooves. It was necessary, you don't believe what you can find inside. Anyway they're clean now.
The new rings were mounted on the pistons and the pistons were mounted on the cranckshaft.
DSCN3062.JPG
the new piston rings

When you're using new piston rings be sure to get the barrels honed, this is necessary to allow the new rings to set.
DSCN3063.JPG
the honed barrels

Before attaching the pistons I placed a new roller, new rubbers and a new gasket.
DSCN3068.JPG
the new roller and rubbers

After that I mounted the pistons. I start by the numbers 2 and 3 and then the 1 and 4. It gives you more place to work.
DSCN3071.JPG
pistons 2 and 3

DSCN3072.JPG
pistons 1 and 4 added

Then it was time to mount the barrels.
Last summer I bought an original Kawasaki tool in Germany, the piston ring compressor.
It was the first time I used it. Once it's mounted it's a piece of cake to slide the barrels over the pistons. Great tool!!!
DSCN3073.JPG
the Kawasaki tool

DSCN3074.JPG
the pistons in the barrels

Do you remember that I mounted the oil pressure switch and it's housing?
I had to remove it to get the tool out, it was blocking it's way out. :club
One is never to old to learn!
More to come soon!
Greetings from Belgium
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!

Philippe
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Re: Z1000ST Restauration

#19 PostAuthor: Philippe » Sat Nov 25, 2017 8:58 am

I'm back
I allso managed to get the engine in the frame.
You'll see that the cilinderhead is not on the engine when I mount the engine . Two reasons: the engine is not so heavy and there's more place to put the engine in the frame.
I covered the frame tubes with old protection foam from a 4 in 4 exhaust and secured them with plastic strips. The risk of scratching the new paint on the frame is reduced in that way.
DSCN3075.JPG
the frame with the protection foam

When the engine is in place and bolted with the long bolts it's easy to remove the protection foam.
DSCN3076.JPG
mission completed

Now work can continue on the frame parts!
I mounted the swing arm with the shaft. Take care when mounting the swing arm to respect the 1,5 mm of play on the left side!
DSCN3078.JPG
the swing arm in place

I couldn't resist to mount some chassis parts on the rear, the light, the short rear fender and the indicators, it's the "American way" to give it a bit of a "special" look.
DSCN3079.JPG
the "special" look

It was necessary to mount new tapered steering bearings, the old ones were rusty.
I use an old inner bearing ring to put on the new bearing in order to prevent damage when putting it on the steering stem, works great and it's easy to remove it, a few taps with the hammer and it comes off.
DSCN3081.JPG
the new tapered steering bearing

Then it was time to mount some other parts.
I decided to mount the silencer of the air filter box , the battery box and some small electric components before reparing the main loom.
DSCN3082.JPG
the silencer and the ignition resistor

As usual the main loom was a mess, broken or cut wires, attached wires, missing or damaged connectors...
see for yourself!
DSCN3086.JPG
the main loom

After a few hours of work the rear part looked like this, an improvement isn't it?
DSCN3087.JPG
the rear part

And a few days later the task was done.
DSCN3089.JPG
the repared loom

That's all for now
See you soon!
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!

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glav666
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Re: Z1000ST Restauration

#20 PostAuthor: glav666 » Sat Nov 25, 2017 9:17 am

Great post Phillipe, keep it up, I can't wait for next instalment.
Z900A4, Triumph Explorer, Harley Fatboy special 1690, RD350LC, GPZ750 Unitrac

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Ultim8pc
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Re: Z1000ST Restauration

#21 PostAuthor: Ultim8pc » Sat Nov 25, 2017 10:50 am

I'm enjoying your updates - great stuff!
http://www.airevalleyclassics.co.uk
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samspoons
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Re: Z1000ST Restauration

#22 PostAuthor: samspoons » Sat Nov 25, 2017 2:43 pm

Good resto with top tips :up

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BigZCas
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Re: Z1000ST Restauration

#23 PostAuthor: BigZCas » Sat Nov 25, 2017 7:29 pm

:D :D
Nice
1974 UK Z1a, Candy Tone Brown/Orange
1976 KZ900a4, Diamond Dark Green
1978 KZ1000a2, Luminous Green

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PAULJAC47
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Re: Z1000ST Restauration

#24 PostAuthor: PAULJAC47 » Sat Nov 25, 2017 7:34 pm

Interesting to see your engine installation,have you ever used the frame over the engine method? much easier!!!!
PAULJAC47,,,,,"She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid."

-Han Solo



You can't polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter



Salad is what real food eats.

Anon



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Philippe
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Re: Z1000ST Restauration

#25 PostAuthor: Philippe » Sat Nov 25, 2017 9:19 pm

Hi Pauljac47

I know the method and I've used it several times but only when the engine is complete. Now I had to wait for missing parts, and I still am, I couldn't wait for the engine to go in. You know, boys and their toys... :D
Cheers
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!

Philippe
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Re: Z1000ST Restauration

#26 PostAuthor: Philippe » Sun Dec 03, 2017 8:21 am

Hi guys
an update of the work in progress
I had a pair of hagon rear shocks that were usable but the springs were rusty.
So I decided to take them apart, remove the rust and the old paint and to respray them.
It turned out to be quite good and they were ready to be reassembled.
The ones I have turned out to be really easy to reassemble.
DSCN3090.JPG
the hagon rear shocks

as you can see I use tools that are used in the car garage business to compress car springs, they're just a bit adapted, the hooks are smaller in order to fit over the bike springs.
DSCN3092.JPG
the spring compressors on

When the springs are compressed you just slide the two half moons between the spring and the head of the shockabsorber and release the springcompressor.
DSCN3094.JPG
one done, one to go

Just keep in mind to be carefull, when one of the compressors jumps out of place and your fingers are between the spring and the head of the shock it will certainly be very painfull!
As you can see they look allright.
DSCN3095.JPG
the mounted shockabsorber

Once this was done I sprayed the cilinderhead with heat resistant paint.
I use an old camshaftcover and some old rubber caps to cover the upper side of the cilinderhead.
The exhaust ports and the rev counter hole are filled up with paper.
I allso mount old spark plugs to prevent paint coming in the spark plug holes.
The underside and the intake ports of the cilinderhead are covered with tape.
DSCN3096.JPG
the tape covered underside

DSCN3097.JPG
the newly sprayed cilinderhead

After a few days the paint cured and it was time to polish the fins.
I use a simple electric tool to remove the paint, the abrasive paper does the job, I start with a 120 grain and end with a 320 grain paper
DSCN3098.JPG
the fins before

DSCN3099.JPG
the polished fins

After that it was time to reinstall the valves.
The valve seats and valves were allready lapped and kept in a box so I don't mix them up.
DSCN3100.JPG
the box with the valves

Keep in mind that when you have an empty cilinderhead you start with putting the valve spring seats in first, then you put the oil seals on the stem guide. I use viton oil seals, I was told they last longer...
After that you put in the valve, the two springs and the spring retainer. I allways use a tiny bit of high temperature grease to put on the valve stems
DSCN3101.JPG
the high temperature grease

Compress the valve springs and put the slit keeper on the valve stem.
Don't mix Z900 valves with Z1000 split keepers, they're different.
After the valves are installed, I put the buckets with a small shim on the valves, install the camshaft and I shim them up, one at a time. Before putting the shims in, I measure them and I write the thickness down on a piece of paper. It's easier to determine the correct thickness of the shims to obtain the correct amount of play afterwards.
Do one set of valves at a time, don't install the two camshafts at the same time, when turning the camshafts, the valves could stick behind eachother. :gom
And for those who have a shop manual: DON'T tighten up the bolts of the camshaft caps to 1.7 Kg/m of torque as mentioned in there. The maximum torque is 1.2 Kg/m!
You see, even in Japan mistakes are made when publishing a shop repair manual. :ws
That's all for this week.
See you next time. :wave
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!

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Re: Z1000ST Restauration

#27 PostAuthor: Pigford » Sun Dec 03, 2017 9:56 am

I had to swap the top cam chain idle sprocket for an earlier (non-MkII engine) Z900/z1000 model to fit a round cam cover to the later engine - the cam cover fouled the sprocket.
And on the 7th day... Zeds were created!

Philippe
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Re: Z1000ST Restauration

#28 PostAuthor: Philippe » Sun Dec 03, 2017 10:21 am

Hi Mr Pigford

yep that's right, the cam cover of an ST (MK2, H) is higher than the cam cover of the previous models due to the fact that the camshaft sprockets are a bit larger in diameter ( 30 teeth versus 32 teeth) and that the holder of the top idler gear has a different shape.
On top of the camshaft cover of a MK2 engine there's an arrow pointing to the front but that's for covering the "clean air ducts" on a US cilinderhead.
You can use an old type of top idler gear on a MK2 cilinderhead, it's not a problem.
Cheers
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!

Philippe
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Re: Z1000ST Restauration

#29 PostAuthor: Philippe » Mon Dec 25, 2017 4:25 pm

Hi Folks
time for an update!
Since the beginning of december I did some more work on the engine and on other parts of the bike.
The cilinderhead was mounted on the engine after assembly and after shimming up.
The camchain timing went rather well and after a couple of hours the engine was nearly complete.
DSCN3102.JPG
shimming up the valves

DSCN3104.JPG
the nearly completed engine

Then it was time to prepare the little parts of the engine, the alternator and the ignition cover and all the other aluminium covers.
They were painted and covered with a heat resistant clear coat. Before putting a clear coat on them it's really necessary to remove all the grease of polishing paste! I use aceton because that doesn't leave a greasy residu.
After a week the parts are ready to be baken in an oven at 120 ° during two hours ( add some salt and pepper and enjoy your meal!)
DSCN3129.JPG
the aluminium engine covers

I use a clear coat of the brand "Restom" and I have good results. After it's baken it becomes hard and it's resistant to fuel and oil.
DSCN3107.JPG
the alternator and the ignition cover

I allso mounted a new oil filter with new O rings.
DSCN3109.JPG
the new oil filter

The other covers were allso mounted on the engine.
DSCN3131.JPG
the covers in place

After that was done I started preparing the alloy wheels.
The oxidation and old paint is removed, the rims and spokes are polished and degreased.
Now comes the covering of the parts that have to stay blank. I use an orange tape which is used in constuction. It sticks very good and it can be removed very easy after the paint has set.
DSCN3110.JPG
the wheels before painting

DSCN3111.JPG
the painted wheels

The front fork was allso painted, putted together and mounted on the bike
DSCN3105.JPG
the front fork

And yes the clocks were mounted too
DSCN3106.JPG
the clocks in place

The heap of parts from the beginning starts to look like a bike.
More news coming soon!
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!

Philippe
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Re: Z1000ST Restauration

#30 PostAuthor: Philippe » Mon Dec 25, 2017 5:12 pm

Hi guys I'm back

in between the work on the frame and engine I allso did some bodywork. The fuel tank, side panels, the tail piece, the front mudguard and the fairing of a Z1R.
I start by removing all the paint from the fuel tank.
It's amazing to see how many layers of paint are on. On this fuel tank there were 9 different layers.
You can imagine the amount of dust it gives so it was done outside
DSCN2979.JPG

DSCN2980.JPG
the layers of paint...

The original colour of the fuel tank was Luminous red ,
Some people make a mess of the paintwork, it was painted over the original stickers, they didn't bother to remove them first.
I remove them with a heatgun, if you should use it, be carefull, don't hold it too close to the plastic or it will melt...
DSCN2987.JPG
the remains of the stickers

It turned out that the original colour of the tail piece was allso luminous red
DSCN2985.JPG
the original colour ...

After several hours of grinding the body parts were ready to recieve new paint.
The metal parts recieve putty where necessary and after grinding it they get a coat of satin black epoxy paint. Only when you put paint on the parts you see where you have to add more putty and grind it flat again and again and again...
The plastic parts get a base coat too, a colourless coat and afterwards they recieve the same epoxy paintcoat .
As mentioned before, I decided to give the body parts a black and pearl grey paint coat with silver striping.
The pearl grey paint was putted on first, after a few days I started to tape it off and give it a coat of black paint...
DSCN3053.JPG
the tape on the tail piece

It worked well until I removed the tape from the fuel tank
DSCN3058.JPG
S**t happens

Parts of the grey paint came off the fuel tank... stupid me I should have given it a clearcoat before taping it off. So I had to repaint it. S**T happens!!!
Anyway : all well that ends well
The results after a few weeks, the body parts are painted, they have the silver striping on and within a few days they'll recieve a nice shiny clear coat.
DSCN3135.JPG
the tail piece, a side cover and the fuel tank

DSCN3136.JPG
the front mudguard and the fairing

To be continued
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!


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