Z1OwnersClub GB

This my St it is coming to the final stages of its renovation, to being put back on the road after 18 years. I parked it up in garage for that amount time whilst other things in life took priority.

20 years... could be worse least it’s kept the miles down... good luck with it

Hi Dunlop4
I've seen worse, much worse after 20 years!
You've allready done some work on it I suppose.
Looks like a real nice bike to me.
Let the good times roll !
GrtZ
Philippe

All these STs getting put back on the road. Great stuff!

Got my st on the road so will be out and about this year on it . It's a big dinosaur but I absolutely love it

Today i started bleeding the brakes, i had a problem with the bleed valves i got off ebay not sealing. I ordered original parts from Cradlys, these are them side by side, there is a distinct difference in them.

I also had to adjust the brake pedal on its spline

H

Today i aligned the swinging arm.

On the st the swing arm is adjusted from these pivot bolts.

The foot rest mounting rubbers are worn, causing movement of the brake pedal

Hi Avon
if mounted and adjusted correctly the brake pedal doesn't touch the foot rest, take a closer look at it, you can adjust it !
Good luck
Philippe

The horn does not work, I took off the switch

I bypassed the black and white wire, from the negitive side of the battery to this connector block and it worked. does this mean the switch is faulty?

Hi Avon
the black/white wire gives the minus to the horn. The switch block itself needs to be mounted on the handlebar in order to be connected with the minus of the battery. Did you try the horn button with the switch block mounted or dismounted?
Bike electricity...strange thing...
GrtZ
Philippe

My handle bars are powder coated witch interfered with the earth on the switch. Below i rubbed away the coating to exposed metal

Had a leak to the cam box, fitted a cometic gasket and APE half moons. This seems to have solved the problem, next up i resealed the carb intake rubbers and refitted the carbs.

I adjusted the acelerator pump shaft to 4mm as sugested in the clymer manual.

After refitting the carbs and starting the engine, it ran quite well except for a reluctance to return to tickover and lingering at about 2000 rpm. I am not quite sure what is causing this, have already fitted new cables and a return spring to the carbs.

Looking good.
I have an ST in bits which I disassembled in 1996 and awaiting a rebuild...
As regards the low speed running, it may well be a blocked pilot jet. The drilling is soo tiny they get easily blocked with gunge if left standing with petrol in them for years.

Hi Avon
I guess you've solved the horn problem.
Now I think you have a problem with the idling speed or am I wrong?
Does it stays at 2000 RPM or do I have it wrong?
I hope you used new intake rubbers between the carbs and the intake ports of the cylinderhead. (I'm afraid you didn't:" I resealed the carb intake rubbers ")
If you used the old ones, these could be the problem. The old ones have a tendency to become hard and to crack thus enabling extra air to be sucked in and the engine is running on a lean mixture. New ones have a lip on the engine side, the lip on the old ones is pressed together and doesn't seal them anymore.
On the other hand I've never used US carbs (with accelerator pump) so I have no experience on those.
Did you perform the initial synchronisation of the carbs according to the Kawasaki shop manual? (do you have one?)
If you didn't, do your "homework" again and read the manual, do it step by step and don't forget to set the idling screw halfway before reassembly!
If you did, do the throttle cables have enough play?
Take your time! Synchronising the carbs is essential for a smooth run and a good performance of the engine.
Good luck!
Philippe