Z1OwnersClub GB

Hi Avon
I know that adjusting the rear brake can be a real pain in the *** . Just follow the steps in the shop manual and it'll be OK. Go for it!
GrtZ
Philippe

The brake was binding when we brought it back from the mot, we used some sand paper to reduce the thickness of the pad this has worked. On the test run yesterday the was way to much play in the lever, adjusted it and it works as it should except the pedal seems too high in relation to the pedal.

Purchased a seat off ebay, it is a good fit except around the tail piece.

The tail piece does not seem wide enough for the seat.

All the locating rubbers line up with the frame rails.

There is also a diagram of the bike on the underside.

Hi Avon
that's a correct ST seat, a good seat pan, not rotten, the rubbers at the correct place. Don't worry about the fit around the tail piece, it's a normal fit. You can always try to bend the seat pan a bit at the rear so it might get closer to the tail piece if you really want that. I wouldn't do it but it's your bike.
You can buy a new seat cover at "pit replica" on Evilbay...if you want . Google "pit replica Z1000 E1-E2 seat cover" if you want to find a picture of it. Keep in mind that I have no experience with that company.
GrtZ
Philippe

As Philippe say's that how there all fit,the one on mine is the same.
steve.

steve-g wrote:As Philippe say's that how there all fit,the one on mine is the same.
steve.

Agreed

It does seem a bit strange!

Took it for a run today to try out the different handlebars and seat.

The fork seal has started to leak again.

Hi Dunlop4
if the new oil seal starts to leak again I think there's something wrong. Or the oil seal is not correctly placed or there's pitting on the fork tube. Even a little bit of pitting on the fork tube can cause damage to the lip of the oil seal resulting in oil leaks.
Take a close look. I hope you can solve the problem.
GrtZ
Philippe

The fork tube has been replaced, i think it is incorrect fitment of the seal. I have ordered a seal fitting tool to alleviate this, hopefully this will fix this.

Invested in a fork seal tool.

Fork seal went in square this time.

The front spindle was very stiff and did not line up very well.

I allowed the 2mm gap below the top yoke, this made no difference.

Next i am investigating the carburetors, why they are not returning to idle.

With float bowls removed.

The engine had a top end rebuild 100 miles ago , just been out for a 20 mile run and the base gasket is leaking from the front left corner. I will try and torque it down when the engine cools down.
.

Hi Dunlop4
When the cylinderhead has been removed it's normal that you have to torcque it again after the engine was warm.
Some say wait a few hundred miles but it's better to do it after the engine has run and became warm and cooled down. It's amazing sometimes how much further you can turn the nut before you get to the correct torcque.
Don't forget to do that in the correct order!
Good luck
Philippe

After re torquing cylinder head, i took the bike out for a run and the base gasket is still leaking.

This is a close up.

Has anyone torqued theses engines more than the specified torque to cure this?