Z1OwnersClub GB

If it's leaking at correct torque - more probably won't cure it

It looks like i will have to do a top end strip to replace the base gasket and establish why it leaked in the first place.
What are the best base gaskets to use, the one on there now is an athena. Are cometic base gaskets ok or are genuine
kawasaki best to use.

Cant comment on the ST but with the J 1000 its OK to go to 39 ft/lbs where the standard setting is 29 ft/lbs using standard barrel studs.

AL

Hi Dunlop 4
I'm afraid you'll have to replace the base gasket. I think something went wrong when replacing it, maybe it was torn or a piece of the old gasket is still sitting on the cylinderbase thus preventing the new gasket to seal.
When you decide to replace it, you don't have to take the engine out , the cylinderhead and the cylinders come off while the engine is in the frame.
You'll have to use new gakets. I prefer to use Kawasaki gaskets or Vesrah gaskets.
Good luck with it.
GrtZ
Philippe

a quick question what oil grade are you using

as I remember a long time ago there was a trend to use some oils that were 0w-40w and a like and they would leek
when returning to the the right spec oil Motorcycle grade not car the problem would go away

not that I am saying I would uses them there are some additives that make the gasket swell and seal
could be worth finding out about

when resembling with new gaskets a very and I mean very fine smear of as high end engine gasket sealant is now considered good practice, also paper gaskets can be pre soaked in light oil to expand them, some uses WD40 some other like oils

good luck

I am using rock oil gamma 10 40 mineral oil and stag wellseal was used on the gaskets.

Fitted accelerator pump carbs today I took the slides and jets from a standard set of carbs and swapped them

When i fitted these carbs, there is an improvement but there is delay to return to idle

Hi Avon
the carbs I see on your work bench are not from an ST but from a late Z1A or from a Z1B.
These carbs are 28 mm but difficult to adjust! Are you sure you're going to put these on your ST ?
GrtZ
Philippe

Yes you are quite correct. What he is trying to say is that he had a problem with a set of carbs not returning to idle. These were bought off a another club member, advertised as being from an american KZ 1000 ST. It turns out they were off a KZ 1000LTD B4 accelerator pump type.
What we did to fix the problem was to swap the slides and needles as well as the main jets to the accelerator pump carbs. He refitted these to the bike and the is a big improvement, he did not road test it today as it was raining. There is still slight delay to return to idle.

Took the bike for test ride after replacing the Z1B carbs, with 28mm accelerator pump carbs off a LTD. A big improvement was found and the revs holding after shutoff has gone.

So one problem solved. We did a compression test on the hot engine after the test run.
No: 1 145 PSI No: 2 133PSI No:3 128PSI No:4 101PSI and this is after a hone new rings and valves.

Hi Dunlop4
don't panic, give her several hundred miles before you mesure the compression again, keep an eye on the oil consumption and don't rev her over 4000 RpM. After 500 miles do another compression test.
GrtZ
Philippe

Hi Philippe
The problem is there is an oil leak on the base gasket, which after this test ride is not as bad as it was. If i have to change the gasket, i may as well address the compression issue at the same time. The bike does appear to be running well though.

Took the bike for test ride today, it ran a bit ruff until it warms up. The problem of returning to idle has gone away.

The base gasket is still leaking.

I did another compression test this time the results are Cylinder 1,155 2,145 /3, 145 and 4 120.
So a little better than last time.

Decided to fix the leaking base gasket permanently, removed engine to repaint casings at same time.


Seems to be running a bit rich as only covered 1750 miles since rebuild, will have a rebore to cure lack of compression sending barrels off to IMD pistons.