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Z1B Restoration
Moderators: paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R, chrisu
Re: Z1B Restoration
As usual top work philippe.. what are the nylon bushes u are using
GPZ1100 A1 zrx1100 gsa1200
Re: Z1B Restoration
Yes top work!
- damien.wrl
- 100Club
- Posts: 395
- Joined: 7th Feb 2018
- Location: Cornwall
Re: Z1B Restoration
You need a hobby
Re: Z1B Restoration
Nice job you've done there.
2006 ZRX1200R
1982 Z400J project
ex owner of Z1100R
GXI 2752 are you out there?
1982 Z400J project
ex owner of Z1100R
GXI 2752 are you out there?
Re: Z1B Restoration
is this the tired bike this year Philippe?
always impressed at your pace of work
grtZ
Bruce
always impressed at your pace of work
grtZ
Bruce
Z900A4, Z1000A1, Z1000ST E1,E2, Z1000Mk2 A3,Z1000H Z1R D1, z1000j3, Z1000P. Z900RS SE,
Z1300 A1,
GPZ1100 Unitrack, GPZ750E, GPZ 750Turbo, GPZ900r A1, A2, A6
ZZR1100 Purple and orange
KE175b, KE175F
along with some lesser makes
Z1300 A1,
GPZ1100 Unitrack, GPZ750E, GPZ 750Turbo, GPZ900r A1, A2, A6
ZZR1100 Purple and orange
KE175b, KE175F
along with some lesser makes
Re: Z1B Restoration
Hi guys
the next episode of the never ending story...
The preparation of the frame before painting...
These are the brushes I use to clean the frame and the engine
As you can see there are two colours: the red ones are coarse, the blue ones smoother.
For the engine I use the brown and the white brush, these are produced by 3M and cost around 30 Euro a piece but they give a very shiny appearence to the cleaned engine parts.
With the red and blue brushes I'm able to reach 98% of the frame, even the very hard or allmost impossible to reach places.
You can allso use them for cleaning the engine but keep in mind that the red ones will make scratches on the alloy so don't push too hard!
For the impossible to reach places of the frame I use sandblasting.
As you can see, it's basic, pond foil (a very thick plastic) a sand container and pressurized air.
I do that outside and wear protective eye goggles and a breathing mask. The sand goes everywhere and after the work you really need a long shower to get the sand off your body.
What I mean with the impossible to reach places on a frame: see for yourself
The inside of the headstock...
and the inside of the battery box.
There are other impossible to reach places... but you'll find out yourself, enjoy the discovery!
This morning I started the preparation of the frame before painting it.
I degreased it a last time with aceton and a scrubbing sponge.
And this is the result after a few hours.
When painting a frame with a spraygun you have to take care that you reach every single part of it, remember you can't spray behind a corner!!! Make sure you can spray the paint in every direction so make room to move around the suspended frame.
What goes for cleaning goes for painting too!
When painting the frame I make sure I have some other parts ready to be painted in case I have paint left. Economy first!!!
As you can see the internal frame parts are painted and all I have to do is wait until the paint is cured.
A few days ago a big parcell arrived from Germany: an old Z1 seat , in a bad shape but usable for me.
After a bit of work this was the result, a rusty but usable seat pan and seat foam.
OK that's it for now, see you later guys!
GrtZ
Philippe
the next episode of the never ending story...
The preparation of the frame before painting...
These are the brushes I use to clean the frame and the engine
As you can see there are two colours: the red ones are coarse, the blue ones smoother.
For the engine I use the brown and the white brush, these are produced by 3M and cost around 30 Euro a piece but they give a very shiny appearence to the cleaned engine parts.
With the red and blue brushes I'm able to reach 98% of the frame, even the very hard or allmost impossible to reach places.
You can allso use them for cleaning the engine but keep in mind that the red ones will make scratches on the alloy so don't push too hard!
For the impossible to reach places of the frame I use sandblasting.
As you can see, it's basic, pond foil (a very thick plastic) a sand container and pressurized air.
I do that outside and wear protective eye goggles and a breathing mask. The sand goes everywhere and after the work you really need a long shower to get the sand off your body.
What I mean with the impossible to reach places on a frame: see for yourself
The inside of the headstock...
and the inside of the battery box.
There are other impossible to reach places... but you'll find out yourself, enjoy the discovery!
This morning I started the preparation of the frame before painting it.
I degreased it a last time with aceton and a scrubbing sponge.
And this is the result after a few hours.
When painting a frame with a spraygun you have to take care that you reach every single part of it, remember you can't spray behind a corner!!! Make sure you can spray the paint in every direction so make room to move around the suspended frame.
What goes for cleaning goes for painting too!
When painting the frame I make sure I have some other parts ready to be painted in case I have paint left. Economy first!!!
As you can see the internal frame parts are painted and all I have to do is wait until the paint is cured.
A few days ago a big parcell arrived from Germany: an old Z1 seat , in a bad shape but usable for me.
After a bit of work this was the result, a rusty but usable seat pan and seat foam.
OK that's it for now, see you later guys!
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: Z1B Restoration
Hello men
did some work the last few days, nothing spectacular but anyway here's an update
I cleaned the seat pan and found out there were some cracks around the front hinge and that the nuts for the strap were missing...
I had an old rotten seat pan and used two nuts of this one to get welded on the Z1 seat pan.
That's something I can't do myself with the tools I have so I went to a local garage and there the little problems were fixed.
Make sure when you ask someone to do some welding for you that the spots where you want things to be welded are clean! The welder wil be gratefull to you.
I only had to clean the weld seams and I could continue with the preparation of the parts prior to painting
The tool I use for cleaning welds are simple (as allways).
A grinder with sand paper on it and protective goggles, you have only one pair of eyes and they must last a lifetime!
The rusty seat pan was cleaned on both sides.
Kawasaki doesn't paint both sides of the seat pan, that's the reason why so many of them get lost because they rot away. The foam gets wet and the water creeps to the metal, it can't dry and stays on it for a while. Since the side where the foam sits isn't painted it starts to rust and in the end it becomes unusable.
After the cleaning the seat pan was sandblasted and the little remaining rust was neutralised by using some chemical stuff of whitch I can't remember the name. Anyway the remaining rust turns black.
This morning I degreased all the parts that have to become glossy black and spraypainted them.
You will notice that all the parts dry on a laundry drying device. I didn't took that from the misses!
It's an easy way to let the paint cure on a limited space.
I use welding rods to fix the parts on and for the meter covers I use some old plastic drain pipes.
All the glossy black parts are painted now.
It's time to prepare the other parts in order to give them a less glossy black paint.
That's something for the next episode!
Tada
Philippe
did some work the last few days, nothing spectacular but anyway here's an update
I cleaned the seat pan and found out there were some cracks around the front hinge and that the nuts for the strap were missing...
I had an old rotten seat pan and used two nuts of this one to get welded on the Z1 seat pan.
That's something I can't do myself with the tools I have so I went to a local garage and there the little problems were fixed.
Make sure when you ask someone to do some welding for you that the spots where you want things to be welded are clean! The welder wil be gratefull to you.
I only had to clean the weld seams and I could continue with the preparation of the parts prior to painting
The tool I use for cleaning welds are simple (as allways).
A grinder with sand paper on it and protective goggles, you have only one pair of eyes and they must last a lifetime!
The rusty seat pan was cleaned on both sides.
Kawasaki doesn't paint both sides of the seat pan, that's the reason why so many of them get lost because they rot away. The foam gets wet and the water creeps to the metal, it can't dry and stays on it for a while. Since the side where the foam sits isn't painted it starts to rust and in the end it becomes unusable.
After the cleaning the seat pan was sandblasted and the little remaining rust was neutralised by using some chemical stuff of whitch I can't remember the name. Anyway the remaining rust turns black.
This morning I degreased all the parts that have to become glossy black and spraypainted them.
You will notice that all the parts dry on a laundry drying device. I didn't took that from the misses!
It's an easy way to let the paint cure on a limited space.
I use welding rods to fix the parts on and for the meter covers I use some old plastic drain pipes.
All the glossy black parts are painted now.
It's time to prepare the other parts in order to give them a less glossy black paint.
That's something for the next episode!
Tada
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: Z1B Restoration
GPZ1100 A1 zrx1100 gsa1200
Re: Z1B Restoration
Hello men
the past two weeks were a little hectic but I managed to do some work on the Z1B, a lot of parts are sprayed mat black and are ready to be mounted on the bike...but that's for later.
In the mean time I've been rebuilding the carbs.
They were in a very deplorable state and needed a full restoration so they were taken apart, cleaned in an ultra sound bath, rinced under water, dried with compressed air ... they're clean now, inside and out!
I realised that, in the past, I've had some troubels to replace the needle jets without damaging them.
Perhaps some of you, unfortunately, had the same experience.
So I decided to tell you how I do it.
The part I'm talking about is the little copper cilinder that goes in the carb body. It's damaged very fast and when it's damaged the needle is often stuck in it so the valve slide doesn't slide anymore...
I use Keyster sets to refurb the carbs, they're complete and good quality in my humble opinion.
The place where the needle jet is supposed to be is in the centre of the carb
Make sure the hole is clean and put some lubricant inside, I use WD40 but any similar product will do the job.
Then I take the valve slide with the OLD needle and place it into the carb, all the way down.
The needle acts as a guide for the needle jet so it's aligned with the hole where it must be.
Next I use the holder to put the needle jet in place, I push a little bit and the needle jet just slides into place.
This is the result: a new undamaged needle jet
All I have to do now is put the other parts back and assemble the four carbs, give them an initial synchronisation and when the bike is complete fine tune them with vacuum gauges. But it's too soon for that now!
I need some new T joints to put between carbs 1 and 2 and between 3 and 4.
I'll buy those in Wieze next weekend where the "moto retro" takes place, an event for the "old boys " where they can buy parts for their old big toys.
Ther's more to come within a few weeks, so long chaps!
GrtZ
Philippe
the past two weeks were a little hectic but I managed to do some work on the Z1B, a lot of parts are sprayed mat black and are ready to be mounted on the bike...but that's for later.
In the mean time I've been rebuilding the carbs.
They were in a very deplorable state and needed a full restoration so they were taken apart, cleaned in an ultra sound bath, rinced under water, dried with compressed air ... they're clean now, inside and out!
I realised that, in the past, I've had some troubels to replace the needle jets without damaging them.
Perhaps some of you, unfortunately, had the same experience.
So I decided to tell you how I do it.
The part I'm talking about is the little copper cilinder that goes in the carb body. It's damaged very fast and when it's damaged the needle is often stuck in it so the valve slide doesn't slide anymore...
I use Keyster sets to refurb the carbs, they're complete and good quality in my humble opinion.
The place where the needle jet is supposed to be is in the centre of the carb
Make sure the hole is clean and put some lubricant inside, I use WD40 but any similar product will do the job.
Then I take the valve slide with the OLD needle and place it into the carb, all the way down.
The needle acts as a guide for the needle jet so it's aligned with the hole where it must be.
Next I use the holder to put the needle jet in place, I push a little bit and the needle jet just slides into place.
This is the result: a new undamaged needle jet
All I have to do now is put the other parts back and assemble the four carbs, give them an initial synchronisation and when the bike is complete fine tune them with vacuum gauges. But it's too soon for that now!
I need some new T joints to put between carbs 1 and 2 and between 3 and 4.
I'll buy those in Wieze next weekend where the "moto retro" takes place, an event for the "old boys " where they can buy parts for their old big toys.
Ther's more to come within a few weeks, so long chaps!
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: Z1B Restoration
Good work Philippe,
I also use and recommend the Keyster carb kits.
I also use and recommend the Keyster carb kits.
http://www.airevalleyclassics.co.uk
10% discount code Z1OCTEN
Keyster rebuild kits & carburettor spares - airscrews, jets, needles, starter plungers & gaskets.
Also petrol/ethanol proof float bowl gaskets. IMD pistons preferred seller.
10% discount code Z1OCTEN
Keyster rebuild kits & carburettor spares - airscrews, jets, needles, starter plungers & gaskets.
Also petrol/ethanol proof float bowl gaskets. IMD pistons preferred seller.
Re: Z1B Restoration
Hello men
an update of the work I've been doing the last weeks
The carbs are assembled,I gave them an initial synchronisation and this is how they look now.
You can see the copper T-pieces between carbs 1 and 2 and between 3 and 4.
They have fuel resistant O-rings and when those would start to leak, you only have to change the O-rings instead of the complete T-pieces
They're allmost ready to be mounted, but that's way too soon for the moment!
I decided I would continue with the body work for the Z1B. I had some spare parts including a fuel tank, side panels and a tail piece. Somewhere in the past somebody sprayed them as they were...
You can never get a good end result if you don't spend some work and time on the preparation of those parts. This is how they looked before :
As you can see the original stickers are left on the tail piece and they are simply overspayed with a yellowish base coat. Underneath that I found two shades of green and under those was the original paint.
Damaged and beyond repair but it's sure it's an original Z1 tail piece!
This is how it looks after the paint is removed, the black plastic of the original part
I did the same with the side panels and gave them a base coat for plastic parts
It has no colour but the base paint will stick better to the plastic parts
In the background you can see my "partner in crime", a german shepherd.
He's guarding the castle! "Cave canem" Beware of the dog!
I allso cleaned the fork .
Before cleaning I put them in a bath of cellulose thinner. That not only removes the grease but allso weakens the old layer of clear coat.
Take a look at the two fork stanchions, one is done, the other still needs a clean-up.
As you can see I don't polish them untill they have a miror like finish, I reproduce the original brushed effect on them.
For that brushed effect I use an abrasive "sponge"
You can easily cut them to the desired lenght and width and "brush" the alloy.
Next time : the polishing of the engine parts
Tada
Philippe
an update of the work I've been doing the last weeks
The carbs are assembled,I gave them an initial synchronisation and this is how they look now.
You can see the copper T-pieces between carbs 1 and 2 and between 3 and 4.
They have fuel resistant O-rings and when those would start to leak, you only have to change the O-rings instead of the complete T-pieces
They're allmost ready to be mounted, but that's way too soon for the moment!
I decided I would continue with the body work for the Z1B. I had some spare parts including a fuel tank, side panels and a tail piece. Somewhere in the past somebody sprayed them as they were...
You can never get a good end result if you don't spend some work and time on the preparation of those parts. This is how they looked before :
As you can see the original stickers are left on the tail piece and they are simply overspayed with a yellowish base coat. Underneath that I found two shades of green and under those was the original paint.
Damaged and beyond repair but it's sure it's an original Z1 tail piece!
This is how it looks after the paint is removed, the black plastic of the original part
I did the same with the side panels and gave them a base coat for plastic parts
It has no colour but the base paint will stick better to the plastic parts
In the background you can see my "partner in crime", a german shepherd.
He's guarding the castle! "Cave canem" Beware of the dog!
I allso cleaned the fork .
Before cleaning I put them in a bath of cellulose thinner. That not only removes the grease but allso weakens the old layer of clear coat.
Take a look at the two fork stanchions, one is done, the other still needs a clean-up.
As you can see I don't polish them untill they have a miror like finish, I reproduce the original brushed effect on them.
For that brushed effect I use an abrasive "sponge"
You can easily cut them to the desired lenght and width and "brush" the alloy.
Next time : the polishing of the engine parts
Tada
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
-
- Hardcore
- Posts: 1329
- Joined: 18th Jul 2008
- Location: Derbyshire/London
Re: Z1B Restoration
Philippe,
Excellent work on the forks with the brush finish, like they came out of the factory.
Regards
Steve
Excellent work on the forks with the brush finish, like they came out of the factory.
Regards
Steve
Re: Z1B Restoration
Great work as ever Philippe
I used to have a dog just like that too !
I used to have a dog just like that too !
H2B GPZ900R
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