Z1OwnersClub GB

Hi men
did some more "work" on the bike last week.
I assembled the handlebar switches.
They were painted satin black a few months ago and yesterday I painted the lettering on them.


White and yellow as they were originally.


I keep the little parts from inside the switches in a little container for making ice cubes, it's small, it has a lot of seperate boxes and a lid to close in order to keep the parts where they must stay.


As you can see the two wires that run from the killswitch were cut in order to free the kill switch from the casing.
Those older switches have the wires soldered on the switch, the newer switches have two little screws.
I soldered them together and insulated the wires with shrinking tube.
Don't forget to run the wires through the holes in the upper casing before reconnecting them!
After that it was time to reassemble the killswitch.


There are some little parts in the switch: 3 springs, a V shaped copper plate and a tiny steel ball.
Don't loose them! Put everything at the correct position and close the switch with a C shaped circlip.
Try to do this when you're calm and when your hands don't shake!
The upper casing is reassembled, now it's time for the lower casing.
There are 2 switches in the lower casing, the starter button and the light switch.


Start with the starter button. Put the black button in place, take the spring and the insulator plate with the wires and put those in the correct place (mind the place of the wires!) There are raised lines inside the casing where these parts must come.
After they're in the correct position, put the little metal plate above them in order to keep them in place and secure it with a little screw.


Then it's time to install the light switch. Hopefully the little brown plate didn't crack on your switch. I had to replace it, a precision job! The three wires may not touch eachother.


I have a lot of spare parts from older switches, if you have old switches, don't throw them away! Disassemble them and keep the parts for spares.


Again make sure that the switch is in the correct position
After that it's time to install the little handle.
You've noticed that there are a lot of little metal plates with different shapes and sizes. They all have a specific place inside the casing and a specific purpose. You allso have to put them in the correct way. These plates hold the switches and the wires in place.
When the interior switches are in place, it's time to secure the loom in the casing.
If the black plastic hose is undamaged, I use it, if it's damaged I replace it but that's another story!
Make sure that the black hose is inside the casing and secure the loom with the metal plate and screw.


Last but not least the black plastic hose is cleaned, there's allways a lot of dirt and grease on it. Clean it and "feed" it with some tire spray. It becomes shiny like new.
That' all for the right hand switch.
I can do the same for the left hand switch but that might be a little boring.
If you want the pictures of that reassembly, just give me a shout!
GrtZ
Philippe

How did you manage to paint those extremely small letters Philippe, ive tried it and its not an easy job...

Hi Wrigers
the satin black paint on the switchcasings is a 2 component thinner paint. The white and yellow paint is a water based modellers paint from Valejo.
It's fairly easy: just put the paint with a small brush (n°0 or n°1) in the lettering on the casings, let it dry for a few minutes and take a cotton stick to clean the paint away from the raised portion of the casings around the lettering. The white or yellow paint remains in the lettering. If it's not completely covered, just put some more paint in the lettering. Take your time!
Both paints don't interact with eachother. You can easily clean the casings with a moistured cotton stick to remove the surplus of water based paint.
Once the water based paint is completely cured and set it's water resistant. So don't wait too long before wiping it off.
A technique I used in modelling too!
If you have some old casings you can practice the technique without risking to ruin your switches.
Good luck with it !
Philippe

Thanks, I'll give it a go.

Your attention to detail is just awesome Sir

Hello men

a bit of an update since my last posting.
The seat recieved an opholstery and is placed on the bike. On december 10 th a big box arrived from Germany with a few parts.
The rear shocks are mounted

I was allso able to mount the handle bar and a few other bits.

The head light mounts arrived and are installed

And the footrest rubbers arrived and so I could mount the footrests

Nothing spectacular, I know but it's another few steps towards completion.
This weekend I'm going to central classics in Houten, Holland, who knows what I can find there...
More to come in the next few weeks.
GrtZ
Philippe

Very, very nice.. nice build!

Hi men
a little update:
In Holland I bought the carb rubbers so I was able to mount the carbs. The throttle cables were installed and adjusted.

As you can see there's still a lot of work to do but she's taking shape. Within a week I'll make another order and then the restoration can continue. I hope I can mount the fuel tank and the other bits.
More news within a few weeks.
Tada
Philippe

Hello I'm back

the restoration goes on, slowly but surely.
A box arrived last friday so I did a bit of construction during few spare hours in the weekend.
The box contained indicator stems, a grab rail, the seat lock mechanism, a cockpit idiot light cover and some more bits.

As you can see she's looking very much like a Z1B, I know there are parts missing but compared to what I started from...

She still needs a chain guard, a front mudguard and a 4 in 4 exhaust. Nothing difficult, just a bit of money and time. I hope to finish her by the end of march.

As you can see the clocks are in place and the wiring is done. Just a couple of mirors and a clutch lever bolt to attach. Notice the key holder rubber instead of the "black hole".
More news to come next month.
GrtZ
Philippe

Hi Philippe

Did you change the glass on the clocks as they look very clean & clear?

Hi Gonzo
no, I opened the clocks, cleaned them, gave them a respray and closed them again, as I allways do.
So, no new glass, only a cleansing of the old glass.
GrtZ
Philippe

Philippe wrote:Hi Gonzo
no, I opened the clocks, cleaned them, gave them a respray and closed them again, as I allways do.

Great work as ever Philippe.
We could do with a detailed 'how to' for getting the clocks opened and resealed neatly!

Thats Tozzin Philippe credit to you

Ultim8pc wrote:

Philippe wrote:Hi Gonzo
no, I opened the clocks, cleaned them, gave them a respray and closed them again, as I allways do.

Great work as ever Philippe.
We could do with a detailed 'how to' for getting the clocks opened and resealed neatly!

+1

Hi guys
I'll start a topic on "how to" for opening and resealing the clocks.
It'll take a few months so a little bit of patience please. I need higher temperatures to respray the metal housings...
GrtZ
Philippe