Z1OwnersClub GB

Hi Pete
the nipples of carb 2 and 4 have simple open lines, they allow the air in the float chamber to escape and end under the fuel tank.
The nipple of carb 3 serves as the vacuum connection.
GrtZ
Philippe

Philippe, thank you very much.
Just done an oil change, bit watery but clean, exhaust collets are fun aren't they.

Philippe, thanks again, just pulled the carbs off and cleaned all the crap out followed by a carb balance, very glad I kept hold of my mercury gauges. When the carbs were apart I could see the differences between the carbs relating to vacuum of breathing.
Just waiting (still) on the front brake pads, then she's ready to roll properly as opposed to 'down the lane remembering not to touch the front brake'.
A quick pic of the current situation
I had to have a quick play on the mop just so I could see a couple of pretty bits.

A quick question if I may?
The centre stand touches the LH rear peg and doesn't seem to have a stop. It flaps about a bit. Is it bent? There is also a bracket underneath next to the LH ctr stand mounting bolt that doesn't seem to do anything?


Cheers all
A+

Hi Pete
the stop for the centre stand is located on the left hand exhaust bracket... but your ST has a 4 - 1 exhaust, so no centre stand stop.
About the bracket next to the left hand centre stand mounting bolt, it's there on all the ST I've ever seen and I don't know the purpose of it. (perhaps the intended mounting point for some sort of centre stand lock as on some Z1100ST)
As far as I can see your centre stand is not bend. I would suggest you mount a new centre stand spring and a stop on the right hand side to avoid the flapping about.
GrtZ
Philippe

Thanks Philippe,
Just researched it following your post and the bracket is indeed a centre stand lock.
3rd pic
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-KZ1 ... 0804218311
and after rechecking the parts diagram
https://www.kawasaki.com/Parts/PartsDia ... /KZ1000-E1
parts 12, 13 and 17 show the fixing.
The spring is OK, because there's no stop the stand goes past it's high tension point.
A little fabrication is in order.
Cheers
A+

Just about to put the fork oil in and remembered the metal disk that was sandwiched between the spring and the fork bolt.
When I dismantled the forks I remember having 1 in each fork. I now have a 4? I've checked on the parts diagram and they don't exist, having said that the diagram shows 2 springs in each fork and I have 1. Either these discs were stuck together with oil and they are a preload spacer on the spring ( I remember my progressive suspension on the Zeph had a preload spacer, actually a piece of 40mm plumbing evacuation pipe cut to length) or 1 should go at the top of the spring and the other below it? The latter I'm wary of due to the diameter of the disc is very close to that of the fork tube and would restrict oil flow. Has any one else got these in their forks?
Cheers
A+

They look like valve shims?

Bloody big valve shims at 32mm dia and 3mm thick

Hi Pete
the "European version" has only one spring in the fork leg, the "US version" had two springs, so don't worry about it.
(I think you have a US parts diagram)
The metal plates don't belong there, maybe someone putted them in there to act as a preload spacer.
Measure the fork springs, they should have a lenght of 586 mm (standard) or at least 576 mm (service limit).
GrtZ
Philippe

Thanks Philippe,
European vs US specs, that's that mystery solved, Cheers.
Looks like preloaders then. I'll leave them out to start with then, they can go back in later if it's a bit soggy.
Thanks again
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I borrowed a leakdown tester to have a look at general engine condition and see if it sheds any light on the carb cough and exhaust pop. All 4 show 10% leak via piston rings which I'm very happy with. This was with a cold engine. Carbs are balanced, mixture set to 1 1/2 turns. I've not checked the valve clearances, if there out they will be on the big side seeing the results of the leakdown. When I stripped the carbs I didn't check jet numbers so I don't know if they've been played with? It's running a Marving 4 to 1 race system with diddly shite inside it. I'm still waiting for my manual to arrive (ordered 18th last month!) so I can't cross reference at the moment. I'm thinking the next step is to buy a 'colourtune' and to borrow a compression tester as the leakdown only confirms the condition of the barrel at TDC. Then possibly see if I can rob a strobe light to connfirm the ignition timing.
Would this plan and what I've done seem OK to you more knowledgeable ones?
Cheers
a+

Hi Pete
The standard main jets are 110 on a Z1000ST. It's possible that the ones in your carbs are bigger due to the 4 in 1 exhaust. It's very important that the float height of the carbs is correct.
If you can find an original exhaust, mount it, if not, try to find a decent 4 in 1, the ST is not a race bike! Try to keep the exhaust noise decent.
Set the valve clearance between 0,05 and 0,10 mm for the intake and 0,10 to 0,15 mm for the exhaust valves.
As far as the ignition timing is concerned: it's fixed. You can only change it a bit by turning the complete ignition plate.

When you recieve your shop manual I must point you to a very important mistake in it: the torcque of the cam cap bolts. It's stated that the camcap bolts should have a torcque of 1,7 Kgm. Don't do it, you'll ruin the threads in the head. They only need 1,2 Kgm on them!
Good luck with it.
GrtZ
Philippe

Thanks Philippe, A mate gave me a 'colortune' yesterday and a strobe, so those are the toys for today. I guessed that the ignition timing, being electronic, had minimal adjustment. It's really just something I want to see, confirm and tick off the list. The exhaust will definitely get changed at some point, I don't like straight through pipes, I've found they give very good acceleration, crap top end and guzzle fuel. Once the carbs and ignition are confirmed I'll check the valve clearances. Thanks for the specs and the warning about the cam cap bolts!
Would you happen to have a few photos showing the wiring loom routing under the seat and around the battery box please. I've put it back together, after it had been modded, but it looks like a birds nest because I'm unsure of the routing of the looms. Currently I have cone filters, it's a good job because the air box wouldn't fit!! Those will get changed back to standard also in the future, too many air vortexes upsetting the flow.
Thanks again for all your help so far Philippe.
A+

Hi Pete
I'll take some pictures and mail them to you. I know the loom around the batterybox looks like a birds nest... as far as the airbox is concerned, I have a few spares, so if you need one you know where to go.
GrtZ
Philippe

Thanks Philippe, I'll look forward to the photos. I've got the bottom bit of the airbox. Let me know how much you want for it when you send the photos. If you happen to have a grab handle amongst your pile of hens teeth????
Still can't ride it because the front brake bits have been stuck in customs in Paris for over a week. Apparently they are being let loose as we speak....we will see.
Cheers
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