Double the troublezz. AMA style Racecrafters Z1000 and Moriwaki Z1R Turbo.

[lude]

Whats the name of the drill bit you're using to make the big holes in the 'carb plate'?

[zed1015]

Whats the name of the drill bit you're using to make the big holes in the 'carb plate'?

It's a 28mm counter bore out of a set i have.

[Pigford]

Stunning design & execution as always Rob

[zed1015]

Another one of those little but important jobs done today.
The Racecrafters bike is going to be fired by twin plugs per cylinder so i need to squeeze another set of coils under the tank.
After a bit of measuring i came up with this pair of brackets

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I'm trying to multipurpose or use as many existing mounts as possible so the bracket at the top of the pic bolts on with the horn and the bottom one to the existing rear coil mounts

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Mounting posts are threaded so the coils simply bolt on to the brackets

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And then the whole thing slips in as one assembly

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The rear bracket incorporates brazed in Rivnut threaded inserts for mounting and these also double as captive nuts for the attaching the other pair of coils in the normal position.

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Coils are 1.5 ohm each which when wired as pairs in series will act as the equivalent of two 3ohm four HT lead coils.

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[moizeau]

Ignore me if it's a muppet question, but are you using a Zeph head or a 'special'?

[zed1015]

Ignore me if it's a muppet question, but are you using a Zeph head or a 'special'?

I'll be using a J head that i twin plugged myself with the additional plugs being 10mm and mounted vertically.
The 1100 Zephyr heads won't fit.

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[zed1015]

Finished off the seat mods today.
The frame was missing a seat catch so a quick a rummage around in the random parts stash turned up this neat little jobbie.
Couldn't remember what it came off but after an images search on the net it turns out to be off a Yamaha Townmate step through contraption

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Time to give it a higher purpose so a swift hacksaw, files and welding session sees a suitable mount attached to the frame

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A couple of bolts and it's on

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Next bend up some steel strap to the correct shape and weld that on to the base in the right location with a couple of holes to take the matching adjustable stainless U bolt for the catch i made earlier.

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Just the job

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With that done i just needed to remove a section of the pan that masks the inside of the seat hump as this will be where the battery will live out of sight.

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And then trim the original seat foam to the shape i want and it's ready to be blasted, painted and recovered when the time comes..

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[Bill P]

Lovely work ,can't wait to see it done

[ollie]

oh thats clever and well thought out Rob

[thebuelligan]

Amazing detail .. Really inspirational

[Stogmuller]

First job on the long list is to get the Yamaha XJR1300 swingarms in.
The original Zed spindle and pivot hole should ideally be 16mm but in actual fact the hole is 16.2mm and the spindle is 15.8mm so a massive 0.4mm slack fit that translates to much more at the rear wheel end which doesn't do the bikes handling much good.
The idea is to tighten all the clearances in the running gear, engine mounts and brace the frames to eliminate as much flex as possible especially for the turbo bikes 200hp + potential.
The XJR s/a spindle is 20mm and rather than sleeve the arms bearing tube down to fit the original zed spindle and still have the play there's just enough meat on the zeds frame pivot to go out to this, so a line boring tool was made for the job.

This consists of a length of ground bar and a 20mm rotabroach cutter.


The end of the bar turned down to be a tight snug fit inside the cutter.
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And the end tapped M6 to secure the cutter and a drill arbour made to drive it from the battery drill.
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Then with some cutting fluid, work evenly from both sides
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And job done.
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Spindle slips in with a slight drag, zero play and no room for paint..
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But not quite finished yet..

Hi, really good work, where did you buy your cutters from,,?

[zed1015]

Hi, really good work, where did you buy your cutters from,,?

Thanks ! I got them off Ebay.

[Mr Puffin]

Some great progress Zed, loving especially the coil tacho brackets. Great attention to detail Nice solution for mounting the carbs, i have just picked up a set of gsx spaced vm33 for my project. So intens blatently cpy your solution

[zed1015]

Well! With busting my knee and over a years wait to get it looked at due to Covid delays and yet another PC crapping it's hard drive and eating all my pics AGAIN it's about time i crack on and make some progress as i want these finished whilst i'm STILL able to have some fun with them . .
Had a bit of a boost in activity and some new found enthusiasm over the last week or two and have concentrated on getting the Racecrafter dry build close to completion as having two bikes in bits spread all over just doesn't really work with the space i have so major work on the turbo will have to wait as there's tons to do on that compared to this..
With the emphasis on handling i've completed the frame bracing and added a "couple" of tubes and gussets to help keep the wheels in line.

In the mid section there's the usual three tubes each side for triangulation along with gussets at the flexy junction from main loop to seat rails.

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Then under the seat a couple more triangles to tighten up the rear subframe.

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Next is the usual under tank cross tube and plates to tie the top tube and side rails together

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And then a cross brace and diagonal behind the carbs

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And finish that stage of proceedings off with a couple gussets on the lower rails

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[zed1015]

Next in line is the front down tube cross bracing and diagonal

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Then finally removed this useless steering head bracing attempt inflicted by a previous owner.

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And replaced it with some serious headstock reinforcements strategically positioned for maximum effect.
Along with the commonly added triangular gussets and short tubes near the coils and tank mount i've also welded a 'D' section stiffening tube down the side edge of the flimsy stock factory box bracing which ties into the headstock tube and frame downtube.
A plate tying in the triangulation to the frame side rails and a fillet of bronze run in the crease where the original tinny box bracing meets the downtubes really solidifies the structure

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To finish off i made this solid rear motor mount

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It's constructed from hollow tubing with welded in threaded ends and gusseted on the drive side to resist flex under power and attaches with oversize close fitting 10mm bolts in 10mm holes unlike the original slack 8mm in 9mm items

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The same snug fitting fasteners goes for the other motor mounts which all adds to the rigidity and along with the tight fitting swingarm pivots, chunky XJR arm and beefy USD's etc i think that's pretty much the maximum that needs to be done without going overboard

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