Double the troublezz. AMA style Racecrafters Z1000 and Moriwaki Z1R Turbo.

[TiBolts]

Enjoying this; great stuff. Rather beyond my skill set but interesting to see!

[zed1015]

Been stuck on mounting the Z1R's Moriwaki correct MK2 tail piece until i found a matching back light and bracket which due to the MK2's increasing popularity means that prices are going through the roof.
Fortunately i found this complete not so popular Z750 unit for sensible money that happens to use the exact same light and mounts .

Which after removing the unwanted indicator stalks and re-angling the number plate mount to suit the wheel it bolts straight on.

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I was then able to make and weld on some new front mounts to fix the tail in its new location.

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Again! MK2 stuff commands top price and i needed a seat to modify so step in a donor Z750 seat that fits the same tail profile.
Unfortunately the flying plank look isn't exactly what i'm going for

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So made a start to rectify that and after removing the foam, shortening it by 70mm and a little manipulation i now have a pan that's more suited to the look i'm after and once i figure out how i'm going to mount it i can set about re-shaping the foam into something more suitable .

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[zed1015]

Isn't it fantastic when you are casually scanning Ebay and you stumble across some old Mikuni carbs being offered by a seller who's only other items are some random vintage wood planes and a spoke shave.

Couple this with a low £50 start price and a vague description about the choke lever being missing and they aren't standing out as anything special which fortunately only attracts one other bidder.

Said bidder might not be 100% sure what they are and didn't give much of a fight so this morning i'm now the proud owner of some hens teeth that are going to sit very well on the Racecrafters motor and despite the sellers description there's nothing wrong with them as they never had a choke lever from new and all they need is a bit of a clean up

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And sat against some 28's for comparison

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To say i'm happy is biggest fu**ing under statment of my life

[Coose]

Are they 32s off a 1000 Katana, Rob?

[zed1015]

Are they 32s off a 1000 Katana, Rob?

Yes! Katana 1000 32mm oval bore smoothies.

[Coose]

Blimey, proper hen's teeth! Looking on Facebook I sense you picked them up for peanuts too!

[zed1015]

Don't know about peanuts but they were a steal for £200.

[Coose]

Don't know about peanuts but they were a steal for £200.

Blimey, that is a steal! If I hadn't bought a set of CRs for my Katana I'd be offering you a clear profit!

[zed1015]

Thought i'd get on and get the newly acquired Katana carbs mounted .
Kat carb spacings are 78 x 94 x 78 and the Zeds are 75 X 96 X 75 so no chance of them squeezing in the J rubbers on the Z spacing and even if they did the throttle cable mount would hit the head so a combined spacer/adapter plate is needed.
Started with a piece of 10mm plate marked and drilled with 6mm through holes to mount to the head and m6 threaded holes at 30 degrees to take J rubbers at the correct spacing for the carbs

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Inlet holes have been bored central in line with the ports in the head and at 28mm for now as any bigger would overlap the offset of the rubbers.
These will be opened up, angled and matched to the head and carbs when i do the porting later in the build.

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The camchain tunnel prevents the plate fitting in one piece so remove a section from the center and test fit.
Mounting holes have been counter bored to allow the overlapping rubbers to seat over the cap heads.

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Then a bit of tidying and shaping to match the rubbers etc.

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J rubbers don't have vac ports for balancing so some old 900 rubbers donate their brass tubes to the cause

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Then decide on the best location for them and drill the holes for a press fit

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Vac tubes fitted .
Maybe a bit more material to be removed for lightening between the carb pairs and some threaded holes to mount a carb heat shield but that's pretty much it for now.

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So mount them on the bike and see how it looks.
Plates can be flipped round and over to position the vac ports underneath if needed.

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Carbs pop on nice and tight in the J rubbers with plenty of frame clearance for K&N's

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And the throttle cable mounts don't hit the head anymore so quite pleased on how that bit of shed time turned out.

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[zed1015]

Been donated an old alloy Ryanair sign this week which turned out to be just the right size to fashion a couple of AMA regulation size 10" x 12" number boards.

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And after a bit of a think came up with a tidy way of attaching them to the front end and cobbled up a few alloy spacers and brackets for the job

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Which simply bolts to the defunct bottom yoke brake splitter mounts

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Plates slot on with a couple of bolts

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And acts like a hinge to get the best looking plate angle which will then be fixed in position once the instrument panels are made and fitted to the top

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Looking more like the vision i have in my head.
And yes! i think they are gonna fly once done

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[sanderz]

Just gets better and better this.

[thebuelligan]

Love the attention to detail....

[Bill P]

A pair of crackers you'll have there

[zed1015]

Have now decided to use a mechanical speedo on the Racecrafters bike to keep the wiring as sparse as possible so the latest bit of online shopping produced a nice ZXR400 160mph speedo that will work with a ZX7 speedo drive and also an XJR13 throttle and cables for the same.

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Was hoping the XJR cables would be similar to the R1 set i used on the Cafe project which were only slightly too long at 10mm on the pull but when fitted these were out by a lengthy 30mm.
I would have used R1 ones again but they were too short to reach the Renthal bars.

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Luckily the return cable was the right length so it was only the pull cable bracket that needed some re-jigging

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A slot was also incorporated into the extended bracket to allow screwdriver access for one of the mounting screws.

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[zed1015]

For the speedo i wanted a minimal bracket that utilises the existing top yoke ign switch mount and it also needed to double as the top mount for the number plate .
So first cut off the defunct ignition switch surround

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And tidy up the casting so you would never know it had been there.

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Then a couple of days and a few rejects later i have something i'm fairly happy with

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Just enough to tie it all together

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Only need the brake, clutch and an oil light and that should be the front end dry build pretty much complete.
As with the Cafe build the only switch gear is a right hand kill/starter switch ( this one from an R1) which now serves as main ignition and horn.

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