GPZ11 Injection

[zed1015]

Ok. That's a different set up to the earlier motors.
The groove extends to the bottom of the block and leaves a gap so that the rings can be pushed in with the liner fitted.
As you say you will have to get the 2mm section ones and try again.

[moizeau]

Cheers for the reply Rob, yep back out and start again.
At least I'm not going mad then, just can't explain it properly.

[moizeau]

Pulled the 'new' head apart this afternoon. Plastigauged the caps, all within standard limits apart from one which was just outside, but well within the service limit.
Cleaned the plastigauge off and bolted it back together to see how the cams feel.
The exhaust cam has resistance when turning it using my hand on the cam chain sprocket and there is a little axial play but not easy. The inlet cam spins freely and will slop from side to side it you tilt the head.
So there is a difference. Should I be concerned? I have no idea having no experience with the internals of this engine before so nothing previous to gauge it by.
The cams were put in dry.
I'd expect the inlet slop to be taken up by it's 'oil bearing', and the exhaust may 'bed in'. The cams haven't been checked with a DTI for run out.
Any advice gratefully received.

[moizeau]

Sorted, many thanks Rob.
Started stripping the old base gasket off with a stanley blade. All done now, must have averaged 1mm2 / minute. Anyone know any tricks to make this easier? I read wd40 softens it...but didn't have any.

One more quickie, the bottom halves look like they should clean up very well without needing a re-paint so it's just the barrels, head and cam cover. Is the Simoniz Tough Black Satin a good match from my GPz1100 A1? Didn't have chance to pick any up when I was in the UK a few months ago and they don't sell it or ship over here.
Found this at a good price.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-x-Simoniz- ... f#shpCntId
A mate can bring it over. How far does a can go?

Cheers

[zed1015]

That's the stuff i use on all my engines.
A very good match to original and can be polished to a more glossy finish for outer covers.
One can goes a long way.
You may have 4 or 5 cans left once you are done.

[moizeau]

Cheers, ordered.

[hartyb]

Great read

Pm me if you need help
Had my since the late 80s and have massed a few odd bits in that time
I bought another gpz1100 unitrack a2 in the summer and also have a parts build under way for some unknown reason
I have a print out of the micro fish parts manual happy to photo pages and what's app them over, they are a big help for reassembly purposes, you may know that the unitrack is a supplement manual to the J manual so there are two books

They are fantastic bikes to ride with heaps of power and on today's new tyres and pads are a very pleasant place to be

Just pm if you need anything and I will do my best to help

Greetings Bruce

[moizeau]

Thanks Bruce, much appreciated, I'm sure I'll be asking more questions

[moizeau]

Finally bit the bullet with the engine casings. The blasters never replied. I did send photos of the engine, may have put them off if they're not kitted up for that. Got hold of a friend of a friend who's in a local classic car club. He gave me the details of a chap who does work on the members cars, unfortunately he only uses sand so he must do body panels etc. and I am nervous about sand blasting the engine in case it impregnates the ally. From experience doing a bit of sand blasting on oak beams in a house I know it gets everywhere no matter how much masking you do.
The hard way it is then, paint remover and nylon brushes.....

The sump pan almost did itself, stripper applied, wait, jet wash, repeat twice more in the places the paint hadn't lifted, bit of a scrub, done. I'm hoping the engine casings go the same way..
The rocker cover was a different story. Stripper, rotary brush..repeat, repeat, repeat...eventually got it almost done, will need a smaller brush to finish some less accessible places. Not looking forward to the head and cylinder block. The barrels still haven't got the liners in so I may cheat and plywood the top and bottom and sand blast it. The head will just have to laborious.

Started looking at the rest of the bike and it seems the front frame tubes have had a mist coat from an aerosol to hide some chips, which it doesn't, so I think the lot is going to get pulled apart.

The rhs centre stand mount is bust so will need repairing

And the 'mounting' on the lhs lower frame by the side stand is bent

What bolts on here, optional extra full fairing / belly pan?

Also had a look at the non functioning front brake, the master cylinder was full of crap so this is going to get stripped and a repair kit fitted. It's also only get one anti-dive fitted, the other's been blocked off. I have the other in a box of bits.

It's the first time the back wheel's been in the air and I've noticed the centre rocker arm for the rear suspension has a lot of play, so this will need sorting, may as well to the other needle rollers at the same time.

One front fork leaks oil, so they need doing. I'm hoping the top bush is still available?
Whilst on this note, I've seen a lot of aftermarket seal drivers on fleabay, bearing in mind the OEM one is a ridiculous price for a one off use, are any of them any good or is there another method? If it was just fork seals I'd make something up but according the manual the driver is required to fit the bush...strangely the manual does a 'Haynes BOLs' about removing the old one "remove old bush", cheers very useful.
Well that's it for the moment.

[moizeau]

More investigation done today.
First off was trying to work out where the bits of fairing mountings go. The only one's I've seen are all in one units or in top and bottom pieces. Mine looks a bit home made in places.

I can't believe it's complete or correct as it is only held on by the 2 rear mounts and the centre 'T'?
What's missing here?

Next up, get that awful front headlight / indicator mod off.
That was well modded then.....
Guess the reason for the split pin on each side.....

Yep wasn't clamping the fork without it.....
The indicators were interesting, bit of 1.5mm neutral house wiring and then fibre-glassed to the original indicator mounts

Which left the 'adjusted' headlight bowl

Which nicely exposed the wiring under the headstock

On a cheerier note, thanks to Al's advice, the front master cylinder has been dismantled, cleaned and put back together. The piston seals were nice and supple because it wasn't dry so it's now back in one piece.
And lastly, got the first coat of fibreglass in to the 'modded' tailpiece.

The nose cone will need a bit as well.

If any of you knowledgeable people out there can any info, please feel free to enlighten me.
Cheers

[Philippe]

Hi Pete

the frame for the fairing you have is not an original Gpz 1100 frame.
An original one is in one piece, not bolted together.
There's a difference between an A1 and an A2,A3 frame. The A1 fairing has no plastic covers inside, the A2 and A3 have them, hence the difference.
Take a look at "bike-teile.de" or "ebay-kleinanzeigen " you can find those frames in Germany.
Good luck!
Philippe

[moizeau]

Thanks Philippe, I thought as much, it doesn't have that 'mass produced' factory look.

[moizeau]

It's been a while, my workshop is full and with winter no chance of working outside but finally the old girl got re-housed yesterday.

And as of an hour ago now looks like this.

The forks have been off before, probably seals, because the handle bar brackets were on the wrong way round (little triangle pointing backwards). The 1500m of insulation tape 'protecting' the harness between the yokes took and age to remove and the pivot set up and rear shock has been off unless the chappy in Japan put the bolts in the wrong way round (according to the manual). The headstock bearings were a little ratchety but were over tightened a tad and dry but seem OK.
There are two jobs on the frame to do. The broken centre stand piece.

And this mounting.

And the pivot has a lot of play.
Then a re paint or powder coat. I've been quoted 180 euros to powder coat the frame. This includes degreasing, masking, undercoat and finish. Just got to decide whether the saving in hours is worth it plus there will be all the other bits to do.
Is the frame finish classed as gloss or satin. I've got plenty of the satin engine paint so may be an option for the small parts.
Next job is to get some workbenches on the walls so the engine can move over there so the prep work can be finished.

Regarding that small mounting, what mounts to it? Maybe easier to grind it off?

[Philippe]

Hi Pete

it's good to see you're making progress!
Regarding the handle bar brackets they must be mounted with the "arrow" pointing backwards! Have a look in the shop manual. It's the opposite direction of the ones mounted on a Gpz 1100 B2 !
Regarding the bracket on the side of the frame: there's nothing bolted on to it...perhaps it could be used to mount some crash bars or perhaps there's something mounted for other markets. There's one on the other side too, strange thing, apparently it has no use. If someone on here knows what the purpose of that bracket is, just let us know pleae !
GrtZ
Philippe

[moizeau]

Hi Phillipe, yep it was from the base manual the supplement says the other way round. Regarding the bracket, must be crash bars or optional lower fairing??? Strange how mine is damaged to point that a bolt is sheared inside and it looks to have been hit from the rear and upwards. No other damage to frame can be seen and the wheels are perfectly in line.
Be interesting to see if anyone knows their purpose?