GPZ11 Injection

[moizeau]

A little more progress. Been stripping small parts, battery box and the like using wire wheels and a bucket sand blaster, then decided to strip the Unitrack linkage this evening...........

Blimey.
This along with the rattle can patch on the frame was why I decided to completely strip it, glad I did. Those bits of swarf aren't, they're remnants of the needle roller.
After trawling through CMSNL and Cradley and then putting the missing links in I've come with this:
Sleeve 42036 x 1, 16.1x25x40
Needle Roller 92046 x 1, 25x33x30
Oil seal 92049 x 2, 25x33x4

Sleeve 42036B x 1, 12.1x20x84
N/R 92046A(HK2016) x 2, 20x26x16
O/S 92049A x 2, 20x26x4

Sleeve 42036A x 1, 12.1x20x26
N/R 92046A x 1 as above
O/S 92049A x 1 as above

And for the connecting rod, 92046A x 2 and 2 x 92049

Found SKF bearings etc at 1/2 the price on line, obviously the sleeves are NFP!
I was thinking fitting a grease nipple to the centre sleeve, the others won't allow it and that was the most buggered.
Any thoughts and could someone confirm the measurements please?
Cheers

[Philippe]

Hi Pete

I see you have the same issue as I encountered...I think that 90 % of the UT's have it.
In the manual you can read that Kawasaki gives the advice to clean and put new grease in the linkage system when regular maintenance is done to the bike.
Obviously it was often neglected.

The measurements are correct for the needle bearings and for the dust/grease seals.
The numbers for the needle bearings in the parts list are correct.
The big sleeve (42036) is available, the mall ones (42036 A (26 mm long) and 42036 B (84 mm long) )aren't available anymore...
You'll have to find someone who has a lathe and who can make those 2 sleeves for you.
You need a cemented steel rod of 20 mm diameter, ordinary steel will soon be damaged and will give play to the linkage mechanism.
Good luck!
GrtZ
Philippe

[chrisu]

not that its any comfort but this a generic problem with a lot of single shock bikes that gets ignored.
I've see bikes where the dogbone has seized and actually snapped.

example attached.

dogbone.jpg (322.99 KiB) Viewed 4732 times

Hope you get it sorted.

[moizeau]

It must have been 'interesting' to ride when that happened.
All the knackered one stripped.

45 minutes with a rotary grinder on my drill for the first one, then realised that there isn't a shoulder inside and found a 19mm socket that had an OD 0.2mm less than the bore, second one 20 seconds, happy days. Quick sand blast. I'm going to fit a grease nipple.
Had a word with my mate tonight who works in a factory that makes stuff for the aviation industry, he's going to ask his buddy to make me the sleeves, normal steel then sent through a case hardening procedure or something of that ilk.
Looks like it should be sorted.
The black bit in the background is part of the battery tray that was blasted but still showed pock marks so it all had a primer coat with Fertan.

[moizeau]

Battery tray and monoshock pivot painted, probably not the right shade of black but better than the wrong shade of rust!

Sleeves will be made this week then have a hardening treatment, not sure what, may come back chromed?
I'll stick a wanted ad out there but the fuel filter holder is missing
11043 on the link, I remember it was held on with a cable tie, anyone got one?
https://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-zx1100a1 ... Gsj0x8zaUk

NFP from Kwak

[Pizzaman]

Hi Moizeau, for the shafts I used hardened steel shaft from RS Components, which is probably the same type as Phillipe mentioned. Cut to size with angle grinder but soft enough in the centre to drill. I see you are in France so don't know if they have similar suppliers there.

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/linear-s ... s/2850396/

Hope yours turn out ok, and great to see your progress on this project!

Regards Andy

[moizeau]

Thanks Andy for the link. My mates already got the old one's and the measurements and is going to make some up at work. He works in a machine shop that makes parts for the aviation industry.

Very small update, the carrier is drilled ready for it's grease nipple.

I have all the bearings and seals so when the sleeves return it can go in the 'ready to fit' box.

[moizeau]

Small update on the pivot, just needs the oil seals fitting now.

I'll fill the centre sleeve with grease until it oozes out either end, clean it up then fit the seals.

[deka]

does the centre grease nipple feed into the the two other caqrries, ie is there a channel inside, have yet to take mine apart

[moizeau]

Have a look at the parts diagram above to help me explain. The centre bore is 26mm straight through. There is no shoulder inside to act as a stop for the needle roller when pressing it in. The sleeve is then carried by the needle rollers with a void in between them. I pressed the bearings in in a vice to start then used a threaded rod to locate them correctly recessing them 5mm either end to allow the 4mm seal to sit without touching them. The first one can be repositioned from the other side but the 2nd one would needed tapping back out with a bar if inserted too far, possibly damaging the bearing hence the use of a threaded rod and a pair of verniers. I used a 6mm grease nipple and the thread didn't protrude on the inside. The cast drilled and tapped quite easily. I used a cobalt drill bit and a good quality tap though, didn't want it snapping half way through.
I hope that makes sense.

[Philippe]

Hi Derek

there's no channel from one carrier to another. You can only put a grease nipple in the long central carrier because there's a space between the two needle bearings.
The two other carriers have only one needle bearing that occupies the complete space of the carrier.
The only way to lubricate the two other needle bearings is to disassemble the suspension. That was described in the service manual but unfortunately often neglected when performing maintenance on the bike...resulting in rust and damage.
GrtZ
Philippe

[moizeau]

Yep, as Philippe said, I misread you're question, sorry.

[deka]

Thanks guys very comprehensive

[CAT3]

Just a question, are the needle roller bearings available with a hole in the outer cage ?
If they are it might be possible to fit grease nipples in the linkage to line up with these holes & then you could grease them insitu.

This setup is very similar to many mono-shock setups, including the 955i I have. I did think about looking into this for my Triumph, but never persued it. I did fit a grease nipple in the drop-link, (part B in the above parts diagram) exactly the same as described above. You just have to be careful when re-greasing the bearings as too much grease can force the seals out !
As you have fitted a grease nipple to part A, could you do the same in part B as I did ? Some grease in there has to be better than none, (unless you dismantle it all ).

The best way I found of fitting new bearings in parts without steps to stop them going in too far was to make a stepped, top-hat shaped guide out of an engineering plastic known as delrin. It's tough & easy to machine, (you would need a lathe or access to one however) & you can make the length of the "step" such that it is the correct length to ensure the seal will fit flush with the outer edge of whatever it is you are fitting the bearing to.

[moizeau]

https://www.123roulement.com/roulements ... =1&slide=2

I guess I should have researched it better and maybe used that style.

When if was dismantled it was the centre bearings and sleeve that fell apart and had collapsed, the others were 'usable' ish. Part B is on the list too but I want to paint if first.