Z1A Restoration

[Andrew_s]

Z900 has discs with 4 bolt mounting to hub.

Yeah, I probably wasn't clear on what I was saying - I'm not sure what depth (width) the standard Z1 discs are but maybe the PO bought oversized drilled discs in error as I can't think of anything else that'd make the pads that tight?

[jimmock]

Z900 has discs with 4 bolt mounting to hub.

Yeah, I probably wasn't clear on what I was saying - I'm not sure what depth (width) the standard Z1 discs are but maybe the PO bought oversized drilled discs in error as I can't think of anything else that'd make the pads that tight?

OK, I see what your saying now.

Thin or thick discs?

[Andrew_s]

Z900 has discs with 4 bolt mounting to hub.

Yeah, I probably wasn't clear on what I was saying - I'm not sure what depth (width) the standard Z1 discs are but maybe the PO bought oversized drilled discs in error as I can't think of anything else that'd make the pads that tight?

OK, I see what your saying now.

Thin or thick discs?

Put it down to my London accent..........

[jimmock]

Z900 has discs with 4 bolt mounting to hub.

Yeah, I probably wasn't clear on what I was saying - I'm not sure what depth (width) the standard Z1 discs are but maybe the PO bought oversized drilled discs in error as I can't think of anything else that'd make the pads that tight?

OK, I see what your saying now.

Thin or thick discs?

Put it down to my London accent..........

Alright Guvnor!!

[MrDavo]

I just popped into my garage to check, both discs measure 7.0mm thickness.

That does make them standard Z1 discs as far as I can find out, as was said they are the only ones that will fit straight on the 6 hole hubs.

I did buy a new (pattern) 5/8" master cylinder by the way, which is correct for the twin disc setup, before anyone asks..

[MrDavo]

An old master on the H#### forum has suggested I can fix 240 grit to a flat surface (I have a cast iron plate I made on a milling machine when I was doing a night school engineering course years ago) using double sided tape, then dress my disc pads until they don’t drag any more.

It sounds like a plan.

[MrDavo]

The sun was out again this afternoon, so I took to the garden to shave a bit off my pads. It took me an age to remove just 0.1mm from each pad on the offside, which was the draggy one. It does turn more freely now, so worthwhile, even if I do get a hard to explain case of RSI in my wrist....

[MrDavo]

News from the front, literally as I do all i can with the front end.

First job, once all the brake system was installed was to try and bleed it. All went smoothly, apart from a leak where the hose from the master cylinder meets the splitter block. Tightening the union bolt didn't fix it, what did was moving the cylinder inboard just a bit, so there was no pull on the hose, preventing it from seating square. This is the sort of drama that I'd much rather have now rather than when the bike is finished, imagine getting drops of brake fluid on my freshly painted tank!



Next job was to fit the clutch lever, you'd think it would be straightforward, but rather than have a split clamp like the brake lever, there's just one bolt and it slips over the bar end. All fine and dandy unless you already put the grip on. This was a beggar to get off again, though I'd want the grips to be a tight fit, having one pop off half way round a bend would not be a good thing. I notice the bars have plastic plugs in the end, when I was classic racing these were compulsory, so no one got hole punched by a handlebar end in an accident. While I was at it I fitted the front indicators and headlamp shell. Other than the obvious ones for the lights and indicators it is not clear what wires need to go in the shell. There is a large round hole in the base, but also a 'losenge' shaped hole above it. I'm not sure what should go where and haven't found a clear photo, can anyone advise?





Although the bike came with the original US market Stanley LHD headlamp, I've decided not to use it, and ordered a right hand drive Lucas H4 halogen one instead, safety trumping originality.

[jimmock]

Looking splendid.

What is the Porsche?

[MrDavo]

Good spot. It's a 1985 911 Carrera 3.2 Sport. I just spent a fortune getting a load of hidden rust replaced by new metal, but it handles pin sharp now. Every year (up to this one) I jump in it and drive it fast from Manchester to Le Mans and back, a 1000 miles round trip, it doesn't bat an eyelid.

[steve452]

Hi there...re the headlamp electrics. I've attached pics of my Z1-B set-up which should be nearly the same. I tried to add text boxes and arrows over the base pic but f**king MS Word, the famous bloatware app, won't let me save the pic with the annotations.

Anyway, the first pic shows the block connectors at the end of the main harness coming through the large round hole and connecting to the speedo and tacho block connectors. I have a grommet inside the large hole to protect the main harness as it feeds through but cannot find it shown on the parts schematics.

The second pic shows the main harness block connections to the LH (closest) and RH switchgear block connectors.

Not sure what you mean by large hole in the base? My shell is a pattern but follows the Z1 style fairly closely, with a threaded hole in the base for the anti-vibration bracket (23064-009), and a large circular hole above for the wiring to feed through as described above. There also may be a small hole at the very top (used for Z2 speed warning light) which should be fitted with a rubber bung (92074-006) for the Z1.

Hope this helps.

Steve

[jimmock]

Good spot. It's a 1985 911 Carrera 3.2 Sport. I just spent a fortune getting a load of hidden rust replaced by new metal, but it handles pin sharp now. Every year (up to this one) I jump in it and drive it fast from Manchester to Le Mans and back, a 1000 miles round trip, it doesn't bat an eyelid.

GORGEOUS!!!

I've always wanted an old skool (proper) air cooled, flat 6 911.
Mid 80's with the Fuchs alloys.

Unfortunately so does everyone else, thus the huge value in them.

[MrDavo]

Steve, thanks for your photos, that helps a lot, although your colour coding seems to be entirely optional. That connector block for the gauge lights & switch I currently have outside the headlamp. Mine has the same circular hole, though there is no grommet, but there is a mystery extra vertical slot like hole at the back as well. As far as I know the shell is original, but it is a project I have taken over, so nothing is certain. I do have the threaded hole in the base, and one on top with the rubber bung for the Japanese market red light.

Jimmock, glad you like Iris - the colour is Irisblau metallic. I got away with buying it by telling the wife it matches her eyes - a good job I didn't try that with a red one! Since that photo I have had the wheels refinished like the 70s ones that I first fell in love with, with the shiny petals. More polite people than I in the owners club tell me that the Fuchs wheels are pronounced 'Foosh', not the way I say it (!). A 'proper' 911 has always been on my bucket list. She is a hateful car to drive slowly (no power anything, or ABS, and a cable clutch) but the faster you go the better it all works and the bigger the grin. I did a club trackday at Oulton, in an afternoon session I used £50 of super unleaded, wrecked the front tyres and almost set the brakes on fire! The only water in the car is in the washer bottle. Here she is being delivered back from the bodyshop, after the 9 month rebuild:

[chrisNI]

Here she is being delivered back from the bodyshop, after the 9 month rebuild:

You’d think for all the money you most likely handed over they’d have respirated over all the graffiti on your door...

[MrDavo]

I don't know the guy, but there's a multicoloured VW Combi Van behind that garage door! When lockdown started it made a break for it on day one, and didn't come back until it was all over....