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Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Moderators: chrisu, paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R
Re: Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Hello guys
didn't do much the last few weeks except removing old paint, grease, oil and dirt from the barrels and the cylinder head.
Today I had the chance of spraying them during the morning hours.
I'm satisfied with the results considering the low temperature ( 8°C).
Afterwards I continued on the frame to remove the old paint and rust.
This is the result after 4 hours of grinding...stil a long way to go.
I hope I can get the job done before the temperature stays below 5°C.
We'll see.
GrtZ
Philippe
didn't do much the last few weeks except removing old paint, grease, oil and dirt from the barrels and the cylinder head.
Today I had the chance of spraying them during the morning hours.
I'm satisfied with the results considering the low temperature ( 8°C).
Afterwards I continued on the frame to remove the old paint and rust.
This is the result after 4 hours of grinding...stil a long way to go.
I hope I can get the job done before the temperature stays below 5°C.
We'll see.
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Looking good phillipe
Punctuation, Spelling and Grammar will be used sparingly. Due to rising costs of inflation.
It's not me who can't keep a secret. It's the people I tell that can't.
freddyz1r
PUM 329
It's not me who can't keep a secret. It's the people I tell that can't.
freddyz1r
PUM 329
Re: Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Excellent work as always Philippe
"Better to remain silent and be thought an idiot, than to open your mouth and remove any doubt" - Abraham Lincoln
Z900A4 / Hodna CBXZ / Ducati Diavel / H1F 500 Mongrel / CBXZ Project / RD400 project
Z900A4 / Hodna CBXZ / Ducati Diavel / H1F 500 Mongrel / CBXZ Project / RD400 project
Re: Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Hi men
a bit of progress during the last week:
-the engine parts received a glossy clear coat and after 4 days they were baked in the oven to make sure that the clear coat is petrol and oil resistant.
-the paint and rust on the frame was removed for 99%
-on sunday morning the frame received a new paint coat
- while the paint was drying I partially assembled the engine
Now I'm waiting for some more parts to arrive.
More to come soon!
GrtZ
Philippe
a bit of progress during the last week:
-the engine parts received a glossy clear coat and after 4 days they were baked in the oven to make sure that the clear coat is petrol and oil resistant.
-the paint and rust on the frame was removed for 99%
-on sunday morning the frame received a new paint coat
- while the paint was drying I partially assembled the engine
Now I'm waiting for some more parts to arrive.
More to come soon!
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Hello men
time for an up-date:
the B1 engine is assembled, changed to a B2 engine and mounted in the B2 frame. It runs! Now I only have to ride it in and I'm waiting for better weather. A few months ...
In the mean time the engine that came out of the B2 , which is in fact a Gpz1100 Uni-Trac engine, is mounted in the Uni-Trac frame.
I painted a lot of frame parts a few weeks ago , first the parts that need gloss paint and afterwards the parts that need the satin paint.
Today I started to mount the swing arm and some parts of the rear suspension.
Other parts of the rear suspension will be mounted when I have the sleeves that go in. These sleeves will be made by a friend on a lathe since they're no longer available .
In the mean time the main stand is mounted.
Mind the bolts, hard to find! Mostly the main stand is removed in order to mount a 4 in 1 exhaust...
At this moment of the assembly it's easy to reach all the hard to reach places.
The footrests on the right hand side are mounted.
Now it's time to mount the battery box and other parts on the inside of the frame and the rear brake will be mounted too.
A friend of mine gave me a present which he made himself.
I attached to the wall of my workshop and I'm very pleased with it !!!
He gave it because I retired on january first, lots of time for amusement now, no more work, no boss waiting, just time for fun!!!
See you soon.
GrtZ
Philippe
time for an up-date:
the B1 engine is assembled, changed to a B2 engine and mounted in the B2 frame. It runs! Now I only have to ride it in and I'm waiting for better weather. A few months ...
In the mean time the engine that came out of the B2 , which is in fact a Gpz1100 Uni-Trac engine, is mounted in the Uni-Trac frame.
I painted a lot of frame parts a few weeks ago , first the parts that need gloss paint and afterwards the parts that need the satin paint.
Today I started to mount the swing arm and some parts of the rear suspension.
Other parts of the rear suspension will be mounted when I have the sleeves that go in. These sleeves will be made by a friend on a lathe since they're no longer available .
In the mean time the main stand is mounted.
Mind the bolts, hard to find! Mostly the main stand is removed in order to mount a 4 in 1 exhaust...
At this moment of the assembly it's easy to reach all the hard to reach places.
The footrests on the right hand side are mounted.
Now it's time to mount the battery box and other parts on the inside of the frame and the rear brake will be mounted too.
A friend of mine gave me a present which he made himself.
I attached to the wall of my workshop and I'm very pleased with it !!!
He gave it because I retired on january first, lots of time for amusement now, no more work, no boss waiting, just time for fun!!!
See you soon.
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Happy Retirement, Philippe. I retired in April 2019 and have had a great time since (well, would have apart from you know what!).
Z1-B, 400bhp ZX1000NGF
90% of questions that begin "Why..." can be answered with "Because people are stupid."
90% of questions that begin "Why..." can be answered with "Because people are stupid."
Re: Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Happy Retirement Phillippe!
I really can’t fault this retirement gig. I retired at 53 and that was 6 years ago now and I’ve never had a bored day with nothing to do and the stable of bikes always keep me busy and make my retirement very pleasurable!
Long may it continue!
I really can’t fault this retirement gig. I retired at 53 and that was 6 years ago now and I’ve never had a bored day with nothing to do and the stable of bikes always keep me busy and make my retirement very pleasurable!
Long may it continue!
Re: Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Long and happy retirement Philippe
highly recommend this retirement job i finished at 46, enjoy
highly recommend this retirement job i finished at 46, enjoy
Re: Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Hey men
before I forget: thanks a lot for the good wishes regarding my retirement!
Now it's time for an up-date.
I did a little more work during the past week.
As mentioned before, the "internals" are in place.
The battery box, fuel pump, fuel filter and a lot of electrical parts are mounted
I also mounted the rear mudguard, the indicators and the tail lamp
The rear brake caliper was mounted too.
At the front some things were putted in place...
Now I'm waiting for the fork stanchions and for the parts of the rear suspension .
When these parts are ready I'll be able to put the bike on it's wheels...
Talking about wheels:
If you want to know how something like this:
becomes something like that.
Just wait and see the steps along the way in the next episode.
GrtZ
Philippe
before I forget: thanks a lot for the good wishes regarding my retirement!
Now it's time for an up-date.
I did a little more work during the past week.
As mentioned before, the "internals" are in place.
The battery box, fuel pump, fuel filter and a lot of electrical parts are mounted
I also mounted the rear mudguard, the indicators and the tail lamp
The rear brake caliper was mounted too.
At the front some things were putted in place...
Now I'm waiting for the fork stanchions and for the parts of the rear suspension .
When these parts are ready I'll be able to put the bike on it's wheels...
Talking about wheels:
If you want to know how something like this:
becomes something like that.
Just wait and see the steps along the way in the next episode.
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Enjoy your retirement Philippe,I look forward to loads of project threads in the coming years
Re: Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Hi lads
as promised a brief "how to" in order to make the cast alloy wheels look more or less like new.
Start with removing dirt, grease and brake dust from the wheel, remove as much as possible.
I use synthetic or cellulose thinner. Do this outside because you can get a bit dizzy from the vapours...
If you're lucky you can remove a lot of old paint with the thinner. If not then these are the tools to remove the old paint.
These are nylon brushes, red and blue (not in the picture), and small metal brushes with thin and thick wires.
You also need a drilling machine to apply the brushes. Make sure you can change the carbon brushes of the machine and that you have a few spare carbon brushes to change those in your drilling machine because they are very fast used up.
I start with the red brush, then I apply the hard metal brush to reach the narrow places so I can remove the old paint there.
It takes about half an hour to clean a third of a wheel for the first time. Yes it takes at least 3 hours for an initial clean up session!
When one side of a wheel is done I start with the second round and I use a soft blue nylon brush and the soft metal brush to remove the remaining old paint.
If done carefully, you can remove 99% of the old paint in this way.
Try to do it outside and use a protective mask because it makes a lot of dust!
When the old paint is removed and wheels are clean you can start preparing them for painting.
Start with degreasing the wheels with aceton. Again: mind the vapours!
Once the wheels are degreased you can start taping the rims off. I use an orange plastering tape from Tesa.
When taping off the rims use small lenghts of the tape and apply them by making sure the whole area that receives no paint is covered.
After that I use a hobby knife to cut the tape down to the desired area.
In this case it was hard to cut the tape at the edge. The cast wheels of an older Zed are easier to tape off !!!
When the wheels are taped off make sure that the temperature is high enough for the paint to dry.
I use a two component epoxy paint to dilute with thinner and I apply it with a spraygun.
When the wheels are painted and the paint is still wet, remove the tape as soon a possible. If you wait too long chips of paint can come off the wheel...
When all this is done you can wait untill the paint is dry, mostly 12 hours, depending on the temperture.
Then it's time to give a clear coat to the rims where the bare alloy is proune to oxidtion if it's not protected!
I use a special clear coat for alloys. If you use a normal clear coat you risk that the alloy starts to oxidate once again.
I apply that with a soft marten hair brush n° 7.
When all of the paint work is done you can have this result
If you have questions about this, don't hesitate, just ask.
GrtZ
Philippe
as promised a brief "how to" in order to make the cast alloy wheels look more or less like new.
Start with removing dirt, grease and brake dust from the wheel, remove as much as possible.
I use synthetic or cellulose thinner. Do this outside because you can get a bit dizzy from the vapours...
If you're lucky you can remove a lot of old paint with the thinner. If not then these are the tools to remove the old paint.
These are nylon brushes, red and blue (not in the picture), and small metal brushes with thin and thick wires.
You also need a drilling machine to apply the brushes. Make sure you can change the carbon brushes of the machine and that you have a few spare carbon brushes to change those in your drilling machine because they are very fast used up.
I start with the red brush, then I apply the hard metal brush to reach the narrow places so I can remove the old paint there.
It takes about half an hour to clean a third of a wheel for the first time. Yes it takes at least 3 hours for an initial clean up session!
When one side of a wheel is done I start with the second round and I use a soft blue nylon brush and the soft metal brush to remove the remaining old paint.
If done carefully, you can remove 99% of the old paint in this way.
Try to do it outside and use a protective mask because it makes a lot of dust!
When the old paint is removed and wheels are clean you can start preparing them for painting.
Start with degreasing the wheels with aceton. Again: mind the vapours!
Once the wheels are degreased you can start taping the rims off. I use an orange plastering tape from Tesa.
When taping off the rims use small lenghts of the tape and apply them by making sure the whole area that receives no paint is covered.
After that I use a hobby knife to cut the tape down to the desired area.
In this case it was hard to cut the tape at the edge. The cast wheels of an older Zed are easier to tape off !!!
When the wheels are taped off make sure that the temperature is high enough for the paint to dry.
I use a two component epoxy paint to dilute with thinner and I apply it with a spraygun.
When the wheels are painted and the paint is still wet, remove the tape as soon a possible. If you wait too long chips of paint can come off the wheel...
When all this is done you can wait untill the paint is dry, mostly 12 hours, depending on the temperture.
Then it's time to give a clear coat to the rims where the bare alloy is proune to oxidtion if it's not protected!
I use a special clear coat for alloys. If you use a normal clear coat you risk that the alloy starts to oxidate once again.
I apply that with a soft marten hair brush n° 7.
When all of the paint work is done you can have this result
If you have questions about this, don't hesitate, just ask.
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Nice work Philippe and good step-by-step guide also well done
Re: Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Das kommt gut
Re: Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Hi men
she's back on her wheels!!!
During the previous week I got the forklegs back after 3 months and I couldn't wait to mount them. It was impossible...the diameter was 0.5 mm too wide...
I went back to the firm who rechromed them and they said they made a mistake. They putted them back on the machine and made them fit. Finally they were OK and I was able to mount the fork.
Last sunday my friend was able to finish the two bushes for the rear suspension.
He has a lathe and made them of a 20 mm bar of "cimented steel" . It's a special treated steel, very hard on the outside for about 1,5 mm and normal steel on the inside.
Anyway I was finally able to mount the wheels and to put her back on her wheels.
This morning the front and rear brakes were bled.
See for yourselves:
I was also able to mount the exhaust. An original one, not in mint condition but very usable.
While I was waiting for the suspension parts I started to prepare the bodywork for a respray.
All the old paint was removed and dents were filled with putty.
After several days of applying several layers of putty and grinding it back to shape I could apply a base coat on the parts.
Now they're waiting for the red topcoat.
As soon as I make some more progress you'll be the first to hear about it !
GrtZ
Philippe
she's back on her wheels!!!
During the previous week I got the forklegs back after 3 months and I couldn't wait to mount them. It was impossible...the diameter was 0.5 mm too wide...
I went back to the firm who rechromed them and they said they made a mistake. They putted them back on the machine and made them fit. Finally they were OK and I was able to mount the fork.
Last sunday my friend was able to finish the two bushes for the rear suspension.
He has a lathe and made them of a 20 mm bar of "cimented steel" . It's a special treated steel, very hard on the outside for about 1,5 mm and normal steel on the inside.
Anyway I was finally able to mount the wheels and to put her back on her wheels.
This morning the front and rear brakes were bled.
See for yourselves:
I was also able to mount the exhaust. An original one, not in mint condition but very usable.
While I was waiting for the suspension parts I started to prepare the bodywork for a respray.
All the old paint was removed and dents were filled with putty.
After several days of applying several layers of putty and grinding it back to shape I could apply a base coat on the parts.
Now they're waiting for the red topcoat.
As soon as I make some more progress you'll be the first to hear about it !
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: Gpz 1100 A2 (Uni-Trac) restoration
Good work as always Philippe
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