Z1000r

[Skid Mark]

Hello again,
I'm slowly making progress. Everything just about stripped down and getting ready to send a few bits away.
I had a closer look at the Hub assembly for the speedo before getting it ready for spraying. Can anyone advise on how I can dismantle it. The wires are pretty secure so I don't want to pull too hard with out knowing that they should just pull out. It looks like the inside screws into the outer case but the only place /i can get any purchase is on the very shallow dimple on the case. ??? anyone?

[chrisNI]

The 1000R didn’t have an electronic speedo that’s from your J clocks it should be a straightforward mechanical one...

[Skid Mark]

It was going too well!
I will have to look into whether to change to original clocks or refurb the existing ones for now. I'm just afraid if I don't change them now, I might never do it.
I'm guessing the proper clocks will not be cheap, if I can source them. But then again, Restoring bikes is not a cheap past time...I should stick to BOATS!

[Skid Mark]

I looked up the Parts list, it seems that it is the correct speedo for a 1000r, which is a relief, I know it is clearly the wrong clocks for the R2 but at least there is some kind of continuity. I would be happy put these back and keep an eye out for r2 clocks.
Any idea how to get disconnect the wires( apart from...SNIP!) I don't want to join the broken one as is.

[Al]

CMSNL shows that set-up as R1. Before you commit to refurbishing what you have you could have a good look on this site about how that arrangement works. I have been unsucessful in removing the wires previously or opening the case. Mine was problematic so i elected to make a sound repair of the wires and cover that with new sleeving. For the Hall sensor, i washed it out numerous times in old petrol and eventually all the smolge came out and it worked fine for years. I would suggest that you rig up what you have and test it all to see if it works. Dont write it off immediately if it does not. There are a number of idiosyncrasies with them. Ultimately; you could have each individual component tested but in the first instance it either works or it does not. Speedo and tacho are repairable but youll need an enthusiastic electronics expert. Odometer is a bit fraught but is integral to the operation of the speedo. There are still many of the different components available second hand once you find out what you need if anything.
A set of R2 clocks will require a cable and a different trive gearbox and its associated drive ring. Tope yolk may be different but i dont know that for sure.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=47160

AL

[Skid Mark]

thanks for the advice Al.
I'll check it out before investing too much time.

[chrisNI]

CMSNL shows that set-up as R1.
A set of R2 clocks will require a cable and a different trive gearbox and its associated drive ring. Tope yolk may be different but i dont know that for sure.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=47160

AL

It looks as if someone at some point in the bike's history has tried to make an R1 replica, which is strange but if it's ok there's no reason why you shouldn't leave it that way... I guess you need to assess what you have - what is the top yoke like?

[Skid Mark]

CMSNL shows that set-up as R1.
A set of R2 clocks will require a cable and a different trive gearbox and its associated drive ring. Tope yolk may be different but i dont know that for sure.

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=47160

AL

It looks as if someone at some point in the bike's history has tried to make an R1 replica, which is strange but if it's ok there's no reason why you shouldn't leave it that way... I guess you need to assess what you have - what is the top yoke like?

I think this bike has history from before I had it in '96! I'm happy to leave the clocks if they work but I would put the r2 clocks on a wish list along with a few other items I would change if not immediately, in time, such as swapping the K&N filters for the original airbox, kerker exhaust for the neta, but I think I will stick with the braced swing arm . I wouldn't mind an original swing arm to hang in the shed though
I'm away at minute so this picture is the only one with the top yoke I have, it was only for my reference.
I'll put a picture up of the freshly stripped yoke in a few days.I'll have loads of questions on other topics by then!

[Skid Mark]

The 1000R didn’t have an electronic speedo that’s from your J clocks it should be a straightforward mechanical one...

Hard to make out what is going on with this front end. The parts list for r1 meters shows a cable as above but the parts list for r1 front wheel dose indeed show a mechanical set up? Any idea if there were different setups for different regions or is one a typo?
I will attach a picture of the top yoke later. Phone won’t let me now.
Phil

[Philippe]

Hi Phil

you have a PM
GrtZ
Philippe

[Skid Mark]

Thanks Philippe,
Reply sent!

[chrisNI]

Hard to make out what is going on with this front end. The parts list for r1 meters shows a cable as above but the parts list for r1 front wheel dose indeed show a mechanical set up? Any idea if there were different setups for different regions or is one a typo?
I will attach a picture of the top yoke later. Phone won’t let me now.
Phil

The R1 was only sold in USA so there should have been no regional variation

[Skid Mark]

Picture as promised. Looking at the parts list philippe kindly shared with me it looks like the R1 had an electronic speedo and the R2 had a mechanical one, is this correct? if so, mine are most likely off a j, and they will stay for the foreseeable.
Again looking at the parts list it looks like the Yoke is an R2 but I could be wrong.

[chrisNI]

It’s definitely an R1 type 44039-1045 also on J1 to J3 and GPzB1

It looks like the parts diagram on Kawasaki.com for the R2 shows the same diagram as the R1/J but it’s not correct