Z1000r

[Skid Mark]

Well, the easy bit is almost done. Almost all stripped down !
I managed to get the head stock and the loom off today. I have no idea how I'll get it back all in one piece!
I'll start looking into getting the frame powder coated once I get the engine out and the casings split. Any advice on the finishes/RALs for the different components? Such as the different brackets etc. I presume these should be Black Gloss like the frame?
The Engine casings carbs and the peg brackets( most of the Aluminium) is satin Black?? and of course the Wheels, mine were white since before I owned her the first time, but I think they should be Gold with diamond cuts.
Any advice welcome.

[tlc]

Well, you certainly have a nice space to do it in.
I prefer paint to powder but the choice is yours.

[Skid Mark]

Well, you certainly have a nice space to do it in.
I still manage to trip over all the Sh1te I leave on the floor around me

I prefer paint to powder but the choice is yours.

What is the general consensus on Powder coating V Painting?
Is there any issue with neutralising after soda blasting?
Phil

[chrisNI]

If you’re going to use rather than try to build a show bike I’d say powder coat . I have seen powder coating that looked just like paint like everything I guess it’s how well it’s done.
After soda it would need well panel wiped and into paint asap especially this time of year

[Skid Mark]

Defiantly will be used! Also, I know my limitations, I hope to do a thorough job on the restoration, but it isn't going to be showroom.

[lude]

Kawasaki KZ1000R1 EDDIE LAWSON REPLICA 1982
Kawasaki KZ1000R2 EDDIE LAWSON REPLICA 1983


WHEEL ASSEMBLY,FRONT,SOLID,GOLD #2
product number: 410731129F6
if it follows normal part numbering gold paint code is F6

[weaver]

white vinegar to neutralise soda

[Skid Mark]

Thanks again lads.
Any idea what can be done with this,is it beyond repair?
Phil

[chrisNI]

If it’s good apart from that it could be fixed...

[weaver]

when I had my Z1100r I repaired damaged fins by buying the correct thickness aluminium shaping the missing part and then getting a local fab shop to weld it on,I then dressed it up.

[chrisNI]

when I had my Z1100r I repaired damaged fins by buying the correct thickness aluminium shaping the missing part and then getting a local fab shop to weld it on,I then dressed it up.

Yeah there's a bit of work in it that's why I said if the rest is good - if there are loose guides odd other damage it might be worth investing in another or at least weighing up the costs

[Skid Mark]

I think the head is good but I will be stripping it shortly and will go through all that. If so I will give it a go!
I presume I would get it welded and dress it before vapour blasting? I know I will need to clean were the weld will be, but would it make more sense do the heavy work before the blasting and priming, or should I get it vapour blasted and then repaired before I prime?
While on the subject, if the paint needs to be High temp, will the etching primer need to be also?
P

[chrisNI]

I'd get it fixed first.

Not going to offer an opinion on paint I'm not going to paint mine, just rocker cover and block...

[ADRIAN H]

Fin damage can be repaired. It’s harder to find a decent cylinder head.

[Skid Mark]

Hi Lads
I'm back for more advice.
I pulled the brakes apart today, except for a stubborn piston in the front master cycl. I'll have to get serious with this!
I'm planning to run some bits through the ultra sonic cleaner, Carb and brake parts, What do you use in the bath, Water, solvent or something else? we use a product called biox for cleaning small parts in diving equipment, this should work well and is not corrosive, but I'm not a fan of leaving parts in the cleaner too long as I have frequently see regulators stripped of their chrome plating. Ant advise welcome as usual as I have never put Aluminium in the Sonic cleaner and don't want to find a master cylinder vaporized into sludge in the bottom of the bath
Phil