Z1OwnersClub GB

Then a quick check in the frame, put a 3D printed bush in the swingarm to simulate bearing and sleeve. Also put on some old Z650 shocks to see how it fitted. Also shows that the left shock mount of swingarm needs to be moved inwards.

235mm measurement looks bang on....dont forget you will need another 1mm each side for the end caps

Any idea why someone cut the front face off the rear engine / swingarm mount bracket LHS? Seems a bit randon unless there was an outrigger support welded on there for the drive sprocket!
AL

Al wrote:Any idea why someone cut the front face off the rear engine / swingarm mount bracket LHS? Seems a bit randon unless there was an outrigger support welded on there for the drive sprocket!
AL

Hi Al, I have no idea or info as to why but that is how the frame came, but I expect you are probably correct. I plan to get it fixed with some other welding jobs that I need doing.

I managed to get the rolling chassis completed today before the weather turns wintery. A couple of pictures of progress to date showing what fits with what.
I spent a good deal of time after Xmas trying to work out what might fit, what wheels looked good and items that could be used with minimum changes. ie front wheels to fit 25mm axle and spacing to suit ZRX1200 front forks. Rear end to mate with XJR1300 swing arm axle, 28mm. Also front & rear wheels from the same bike model. After a while the best looking solution was GSXR750-K8/K9 wheels. They are also sensibly priced 17 inch wheels running 120 front & 180 rear. Rear brake caliper is from Hyabusa.

Some photos showing more detail if interested.

Crikey, that made a massive leap forward for the better, good going.
AL

Looking forward to this project moving forward!

I've been working on an old set of BS34s that I purchased as not working, slide#4 was seized solid and a little butchery had been done by someone using a screw driver to try and pry it free. Anyway how time flies, it has taken me 8 days to do the strip, clean and rebuild. Cleaning was mainly done using an ultra sonic bath.


Old fuel had stuck the slide firm, a gentle soak got it moving...


Carbs cleaned and ready for reassembly, the right of the photo shows the replacement carb kit that I managed to locate, most parts seem correct, a few O-rings were wrong size, but I've ordered a selection of small ones


Slide#4 cleaned up nicely and now moves freely when put in the body.


Back together again, a while before I can try them out.

Excellent work going on there. I have this task to complete on my bank of carbs. I'm more nervous about this job than pulling the motor apart. Any lessons learned/tips gratefully received.
Cheers

redzee wrote:Excellent work going on there. I have this task to complete on my bank of carbs. I'm more nervous about this job than pulling the motor apart. Any lessons learned/tips gratefully received.
Cheers

My tips would be:-
1. keep items from each disassembled carb in separate containers.
2. An ultra sonic cleaner is a big help.
3. Use JIS screwdrivers to prevent chewing up the small panhead screws.
4. I found a few items very well gummed up with old sticky brown fuel a) float pins, b) jet needle tube ,c) vacuum slide valve. I ended up putting the carb body in the cleaning bath before I was able to remove these items. Once soaked for a while they were easy to remove.
5. Take many photos during disassembly for your future reference when reassembling.
6. After cleaning I blow out all passages with an air duster to check they are clean and free flowing.
Good luck!

Started working on the seat recovering a few days back, in fact I've found it much trickier to recover than I expected. I don't think it helps that the seat is stepped. I first tried securing the front inside the pocket and then pulling the cover to secure the rear. I found this tended to cause the cover to ride up the slope and not sit flat at the lowest points. Next method, secure front pocket and then work on the lower part of the seat making sure it stays flat and also secure the rear of the cover without excessive tension. Still not working out well. I now plan to try to work from the front, get this all correct and then move rearwards slowly.....That is for the future. Decided to give it a break and look at some of the electrics I've recently purchased when they were on a decent discount in January.

If anyone has any experience or advice on the recovering of an ELR seat please do add some comments.

Decided to add a little adhesive to hold foam in place.


Foam now glue (lightly) to the base


Trimmed front and ready with a TR250 stanley stapler and Arrow staples.

New items bought over the past few weeks to keep the project moving....




Decided that the Koso RX4 was a suitable candidate for an ELR retomod.


Tested as much of the functionality as possible, including the new fuel sender unit. It all seems to work well. The instrument has a TFT screen and is certainly bright and seems easy to read in bright light.

kawasaki_man wrote:
If anyone has any experience or advice on the recovering of an ELR seat please do add some comments.

I did one about two years ago, I used a Japanese cover that was pretty much identical to the original. I got a hand off a mate. I slipped the cover over thew front and tacked it in the centre, pulled over the back lip and pulled thight to get the seam over the lip and again tacked in centre. Then I worked it from the centre sides the same way pulling the seam over the lip. I didn't work from one point and around as this could end up with too little or much when you get back to start. I just kept tacking it centre of where it was already tacked and gradually filling in the gaps. I didn't have to remove and redo many, if at all. Just keep checking to ensure you don't end up with a pucker, that would be a F#cker!!

kawasaki_man wrote:Decided that the Koso RX4 was a suitable candidate for an ELR retomod.

Fancying one of those for my ZRX1200R..