Z1OwnersClub GB

I decided that after more than 3 years it was time to start a new project, slowly. The idea is to use a Z1000J engine and frame and then upgrade to more modern running gear, wheels, swing arm, brakes, electrics, wiring...

I've always liked the Z1000R2 having owned one from 1987 to 1992 and have fond memories of what a great engine was in that bike. Well I have started this new project with a Z1000 engine circa 1981. The engine arrived on Monday and a quick look at the cams showed it to be a Z1000M. I had anticipated this and had already purchased a set of camshafts for a Z1000J, so will build to J-spec hopefully.





No use without a frame, I popped down to DK motorcycles to inspect a possible candidate, it actually looked quite good with no obvious sign of accident damage / repair so I purchased it, also added a GPZ1100 tank, looks to be solid and a period tail piece.


Now I need to work out a plan and collect more parts when available, but I will start on the refurb of the engine whilst gathering parts.

Looking forward to seeing progress good luck. I’m into the fifteenth year of a quick refurb of my 1000R

Hi kawasaki_man

all the best with your project!
I hope you'll find all the parts you need to assemble a Z1000R .
Starting from scratch is quite a challenge, my respect for that bold decision!
Keep us informed please.
GrtZ
Philippe

Good Job! Looking forward to further instalments of your build!

Looking forward to this!

I have finally started work on the engine disassembly, after spending most of this year so far on DIY work around the house.

Here are some pictures of recent progress and a few comments.
The head refused to budge, instead the barrels wanted to come off with the head. I tried tapping in various places with a rubber mallet, no joy. I read a post on this forum about using tyre levers! I started with one, no movement and then progressed to the recommended two and the head freed itself immediately. Did the same on the other end and head was off in a couple of minutes. I did spend quite some time before working out the best place to use the levers without breaking / damaging any fins on the head. (The barrel had some minor fin damage when purchased). I selected close to the exhaust and inlet ports where there was cross support in the casting between the fins. I've never found a head this hard to remove before...it was really my last choice method but worked perfectly while taking adequate care where the tyre lever was actually placed.

An initial assessment of the head was surprising good, valves and seats look quite respectable.
The barrel looks to be OK also, running standard pistons, and the bores are not bad considering the engine has done nothing for many years. Full checking of all components will follow later once all the disassembly work has been completed.

Bottom end work.
The alternator rotor was covered in hard red sealant / glue. The sump pan was full of the red bits that had dropped off the rotor. I guess this is a replacement magnet that someone has attached to rotor with the red stuff? Anyone come across this before?

First time I've used the engine stand, it makes the work so much easier.

Split done & mock-up of parts:-

Split done with clutch basket and alternator still attached, thanks for the help on that one.

This is the first chance I've had to put the engine in the frame with the engine mounts supplied by Z1OC member. Thankfully the engine fits correctly into the frame without any issues. I also put the carbs on so I could check that the fuel tap can operate without snagging on the top of the carbs since the tank is from a GPZ11-B2, all good also. I have an old seat coming that I plan to convert to ELR, I'm sure that will require some work to get it to fit....Also in the process of cleaning the engine casings.

The rotor is stock and it's common for the " red stuff " to flake off.
Just make sure the magnets are secure.

It’s looking good! Keep the updates coming!

Clutch friction plate is in back to front, others also perhaps.
Outer dished part of the sprocket lock mechanism is on back to front. It has a double hex which locks the head of the bolt.
You can masking tape across the front face of the rotor drum after a good clean up and fill the gap with ordinary Araldite. Gravity and three seperate sittings but worth it in my own experience. It goes a long way to keeping the magnets in place if any come loose!
AL

Al wrote:Clutch friction plate is in back to front, others also perhaps.
Outer dished part of the sprocket lock mechanism is on back to front. It has a double hex which locks the head of the bolt.
You can masking tape across the front face of the rotor drum after a good clean up and fill the gap with ordinary Araldite. Gravity and three seperate sittings but worth it in my own experience. It goes a long way to keeping the magnets in place if any come loose!
AL

Al, thanks for the info on items you have seen that had been assembled back to front years ago!. Most helpful advice and more than welcome.

Hi Mate not sure what your plans are but if your interested in any Zx7r stuff I have USD forks and other stuff wheels swing arm or zx6r wheels etc kicking about I would part with.

project has been slow but trying to gather a selection of bits a pieces to put a rolling chassis together...Anyway I have an XJR1300 swingarm that needs a slight chop to get it to fit. I decided to have a practice with some aluminium tube and jig made using 3D printer. The results were OK so I decided the next move was on the swingarm.

Here are the photos of the swingarm chop.