My Z1B has never really run well, so have decided to pull it apart and rebuild it.
The top end is good, as I rebuilt it. Carbs too.
The previous owner had it rebored, so I wrongly presumed that Pistons downward are good. That's not the case!The Cam Chain Tensioner assembly needs all new rubber parts and some roller guides. David Silver says £725 for full kit. If it has to be done then so be it, although that is a lot of £ to part with.
Can any of you out there advise?
The Engine is now out, so I am pulling it apart next week. Lets hope the Crank etc are good.
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Z1B Cam Chain Tensioner
Moderators: paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R, chrisu
Re: Z1B Cam Chain Tensioner
I'd say that if you have the engine apart and it's done more that 25k miles then replace the cam chain anyways and replace the rollers, jockey & guides if needed.
http://www.airevalleyclassics.co.uk
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Keyster rebuild kits & carburettor spares - airscrews, jets, needles, starter plungers & gaskets.
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10% discount code Z1OCTEN
Keyster rebuild kits & carburettor spares - airscrews, jets, needles, starter plungers & gaskets.
Also petrol/ethanol proof float bowl gaskets. IMD pistons preferred seller.
Re: Z1B Cam Chain Tensioner
Don't bother with OEM idlers.
Use the solid Liska or PMC type as they are much cheaper and have no rubber parts to fail.
The Liska tensioner also replaces the rubber wheel with a sprocket.
They will also last more or less forever as the only part that can fail is the replaceable roller bearing.
The only rubber parts that you have to replace like for like is the roller under the barrels and the front guide which are relatively cheap.
I'd also chuck the old rubber mounts for the top idler and use solid billet ones and fit a HD camchain while you're in there.
Reports that the solid idlers run a little noisier than stock is exaggerated as I have them in all my engines and you wouldn't know it.
Use the solid Liska or PMC type as they are much cheaper and have no rubber parts to fail.
The Liska tensioner also replaces the rubber wheel with a sprocket.
They will also last more or less forever as the only part that can fail is the replaceable roller bearing.
The only rubber parts that you have to replace like for like is the roller under the barrels and the front guide which are relatively cheap.
I'd also chuck the old rubber mounts for the top idler and use solid billet ones and fit a HD camchain while you're in there.
Reports that the solid idlers run a little noisier than stock is exaggerated as I have them in all my engines and you wouldn't know it.
Re: Z1B Cam Chain Tensioner
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Re: Z1B Cam Chain Tensioner
Hi Glen
when replacing all the camchain parts and doing a complete disassembly of the engine, change the oil seals and o-rings as well .
Good luck with the rebuild!
GrtZ
Philippe
when replacing all the camchain parts and doing a complete disassembly of the engine, change the oil seals and o-rings as well .
Good luck with the rebuild!
GrtZ
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: Z1B Cam Chain Tensioner
Philippe wrote:Hi Glen
when replacing all the camchain parts and doing a complete disassembly of the engine, change the oil seals and o-rings as well .
Good luck with the rebuild!
GrtZ
Philippe
Good advise if he needs to split the crankcases. Hopefully he won't if he uses a soft link camchain.
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