Master cylinder black anodising

[DaveZ1]

Just contacted Mikey and he has agreed to sort my anodising problem. Thanks for the pointers

[Mark Tiller]

stick on some before and after pix when done

[kev edwards]

I have tried to have this done in Australia... With the answer from many companies, because they have had brake fluid in them they are very hard to anodise.

A member of this forum from New Zealand (Toy Collector) said he had success with black anodising.
I contacted him about an address .. He then seemed disinterested and said that I must be able to find an anodising company in Oz!
RegardZ.

If you get some basic materials Garn you should be able to do it yourself.

[kas750]

Posted on another forum by one of the triples boys from nz.....

Home anodising.....Its EASY..., and gives that brand new factory look.
Clean the part to be anodised.
In a plastic container, fill with a fairly strong solution of sulphuric acid.
Place a stainless steel or lead cathode plate at the bottom with a stainless wire attached.
Suspend the part above this on a stainless wire, they must not touch and pour in the acid so the part is covered.
Connect a battery charger to both stainless wires, POSITIVE to the work, NEGATIVE to the cathode plate.
After 30 minutes or so of fizzing, remove work and wash and dry it. Immerse in the dye for 15 to 20 minutes, remove and boil it in water for 20 minutes... this hardens and sets the surface.
Dyes are easily found under the DYLON home dye brand..used for dying wool and fabric. Food dye will also work. All colours are available and cheap.
This is less trouble with small parts and easier than painting. Gives a hard wearing surface, great for brake/clutch levers, pedals, brackets, even a whole engine cover.
Practice the process first on scrap aluminium parts to get the feel, much depends on acid strength, charger current etc, everything works, but times vary.

[toycollector10]

I didn't mean to disrespect Garn but there will probably be lots of platers in his area who can do black anodising. I live in a city of 385,000 and had no problems. Australia has about 12 million people or so living there. As regards the "expert" telling you that as it's been exposed to brake fluid it can't be done..I don't think so. As I bumble about doing up bikes I run into lots of fluff from experts. One electroplater told me he wouldn't be chrome plating or doing zinc work on "Jap" metal "'cos it's rubbish"blah blah...I just thanked him and walked away, the wanker.

The thing with any finish is that it's all about the preparation. Get the items properly polished first. I did my own polishing so of course the result, although acceptable, wasn't first rate.

[Z903]

Posted on another forum by one of the triples boys from nz.....

Home anodising.....Its EASY..., and gives that brand new factory look.
Clean the part to be anodised.
In a plastic container, fill with a fairly strong solution of sulphuric acid.
Place a stainless steel or lead cathode plate at the bottom with a stainless wire attached.
Suspend the part above this on a stainless wire, they must not touch and pour in the acid so the part is covered.
Connect a battery charger to both stainless wires, POSITIVE to the work, NEGATIVE to the cathode plate.
After 30 minutes or so of fizzing, remove work and wash and dry it. Immerse in the dye for 15 to 20 minutes, remove and boil it in water for 20 minutes... this hardens and sets the surface.
Dyes are easily found under the DYLON home dye brand..used for dying wool and fabric. Food dye will also work. All colours are available and cheap.
This is less trouble with small parts and easier than painting. Gives a hard wearing surface, great for brake/clutch levers, pedals, brackets, even a whole engine cover.
Practice the process first on scrap aluminium parts to get the feel, much depends on acid strength, charger current etc, everything works, but times vary.

Do you have a link to that forum by any chance?
Sounds too easy to be true! but maybe worth looking into. Home Zinc plating sounds easy as well, but once you look into that experience is everything not to mention the cost of the propriety kits.

[kas750]

That was pretty much all their was to the thread.It got to be worth giving it a go on a scrap piece of ally.

[Garn 1]

ToyCollector, I had tried many places in Sydney and NSW, in general, no one wanted the responsibility on doing an inferior job. I have heard of a place and was about to take my master cylinder etc there, when a guy said they don't like them polished to start with. I then lost interest.

Yes, we do have a lot of wankers here. I thought by just mailing them across the Tasman, was my way of getting them done. Thanks for your explanation.

I regained interest , when a mate said he had found a place. At the moment they are being anodised in Sydney, I'll let the forum know when I get them back and how good a job they did.
RegardZ.

[ZedHead]

Mikey did mine .. I will be sending him the splitter this winter.

[Z903]

That last pic looks pretty good to me!
If your works out Garn I might do my next one there.
On my A4 I simply painted it in Satin Black (Not the cap, it's a good original), that was 6 years ago now and it's as good as the day I did it. What I do do though is wax it whenever I do the bike...maybe this has helped?

[Z1_Kerry]

I have a box of anodizing I want done and I'm going to send it to Micky. Probably can get it done here but I reckon that the extra cost of shipping it will far outweigh the fact the job will get done right going by the photographic records

[DaveZ1]

Got some photos of bits that Ive done so far for my Z1A resto. Wheres the best place to post your photos so that I can link them to my messages. Told you I was new to this forum malarky,

[wayno]

http://www.z1ownersclub.co.uk/forum/vie ... hp?t=14667

[DaveZ1]

Cheers Wayno, exactly what I was looking for .........an idiots guide