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Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
Moderators: paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R, chrisu
Re: Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
Hi csx355
looks great, go on you're allmost there!
Keep up the good work!
Let the good times roll (again)!
Philippe
looks great, go on you're allmost there!
Keep up the good work!
Let the good times roll (again)!
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
Wheels look good, wish I had your talents.
adrianhorsfield@live.co.uk
Sunny Bournemouth. Dorset. UK.
Sunny Bournemouth. Dorset. UK.
Re: Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
Building wheels is not too hard - but it is easy to get in a tangle. I used to build hundreds of custom cycle wheels it's pretty much the same. There is no magic or black art - they are either right or wrong. Correct spoke length and getting the first spoke right is the key. After that its painting by numbers. Happy to help if you fancy a go.
Got the tyres on today - discs tidied up and fitted along with a new chain and sprocket set and wheels in.
Hoped to get the carbs on as well but Grandparent babysitting duties encroached somewhat. And you can't argue with that!
Got the tyres on today - discs tidied up and fitted along with a new chain and sprocket set and wheels in.
Hoped to get the carbs on as well but Grandparent babysitting duties encroached somewhat. And you can't argue with that!
Re: Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
Today has been a good day - like really good! Finished up with the carbs and fitted them, even managed to rescue the original intake mounts. It's not that I'm tight, I just think for my builds I would rather refurbish and use as much of the original bike as possible even if the end result shows it's stretchmarks! After all these bikes are 40 years old.
I got the wiring to the coils straight and then with the help of this guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhB5Ncn3DAs and a Heath Robinson timing-test light did the static timing for the Dyna S ignition. I wasn't sure how good my coils were but as I was on a roll I thought bollox why not? Lets get the throttle cables fitted - you can see where this is going can't you? I struggled a bit with the shut off cable - still don't think it's spot on but already had my sights set on the old Harris exhaust that came with the bike. This was going to be fun as the bike was still on the Enduro stand resting on blocks of 4x2!!
I threw a few ratchet straps over the rafters in the garage and jacked the bike up as high as the 135kg stand would go. It wasn't far, lock off the straps around the frame tubes - drop the jack - and kick the stand out from the bike. Carefully let the straps off and there we are, the first time in 20 odd years that SME60SS (It's me boss) has stood on her own two feet.
Quick polish on the Harris and WOW how good does that look. Fit it - then fit it again only this time with the copper header sealing washers DOH!
And I thought
"I wonder?"
Rig up the auxiliary fuel tank - fill the motor with 3.7 litres of the finest melted down dinosaurs - fill the pot with half a litre of fresh lawn mower fuel. and turned on the tap. No overflow from the carbs that has to be a good omen. I spanked the throttle a couple of times - held the choke lever up turned the key and . . . . . pressed the button. She span over and coughed in a good way that made me think
"you're mine now precious'"
One more prod on the starter and she started like she had been run every day. Amazing - sweet, smooth and steady. Resist resist resist - oh fuck it Blip Blip Blip - Im in Z heaven. It sounds amazing even without an airbox and filter - whhoopps. Huge upwelling of smug. Such a shame I cant load videos - so I did the next best thing and sent a video text of her running - dressed up with tank and panels - to the guy that had her when I first saw the bike almost 20 years ago in his back garden alongside the BMW R80. Didn't say too much just the video and two words
' Remember Me?'
Here's what it sounds like in text
BUrrrrumphhhff VRRRrrrrrrrrr VRRrrrrrrrrrr Vrrrrrrrrrrrrrr Vrrrrrrrrrrrr VVVVRRRRrrrrrrrrrr VVVVRRRROOOOWWWWwwwwww VVVVRRRROOOOWWWWwwwwww VVVVRRRROOOOWWWWwwwwww Vrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr Oh Yess!
Interesting little aside my one of my idiot lights - generator or oil pressure 2nd from the bottom has a habit of flashing with the regularity of an indicator from the moment the ignition is switched on. Need to sort that.
I got the wiring to the coils straight and then with the help of this guy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhB5Ncn3DAs and a Heath Robinson timing-test light did the static timing for the Dyna S ignition. I wasn't sure how good my coils were but as I was on a roll I thought bollox why not? Lets get the throttle cables fitted - you can see where this is going can't you? I struggled a bit with the shut off cable - still don't think it's spot on but already had my sights set on the old Harris exhaust that came with the bike. This was going to be fun as the bike was still on the Enduro stand resting on blocks of 4x2!!
I threw a few ratchet straps over the rafters in the garage and jacked the bike up as high as the 135kg stand would go. It wasn't far, lock off the straps around the frame tubes - drop the jack - and kick the stand out from the bike. Carefully let the straps off and there we are, the first time in 20 odd years that SME60SS (It's me boss) has stood on her own two feet.
Quick polish on the Harris and WOW how good does that look. Fit it - then fit it again only this time with the copper header sealing washers DOH!
And I thought
"I wonder?"
Rig up the auxiliary fuel tank - fill the motor with 3.7 litres of the finest melted down dinosaurs - fill the pot with half a litre of fresh lawn mower fuel. and turned on the tap. No overflow from the carbs that has to be a good omen. I spanked the throttle a couple of times - held the choke lever up turned the key and . . . . . pressed the button. She span over and coughed in a good way that made me think
"you're mine now precious'"
One more prod on the starter and she started like she had been run every day. Amazing - sweet, smooth and steady. Resist resist resist - oh fuck it Blip Blip Blip - Im in Z heaven. It sounds amazing even without an airbox and filter - whhoopps. Huge upwelling of smug. Such a shame I cant load videos - so I did the next best thing and sent a video text of her running - dressed up with tank and panels - to the guy that had her when I first saw the bike almost 20 years ago in his back garden alongside the BMW R80. Didn't say too much just the video and two words
' Remember Me?'
Here's what it sounds like in text
BUrrrrumphhhff VRRRrrrrrrrrr VRRrrrrrrrrrr Vrrrrrrrrrrrrrr Vrrrrrrrrrrrr VVVVRRRRrrrrrrrrrr VVVVRRRROOOOWWWWwwwwww VVVVRRRROOOOWWWWwwwwww VVVVRRRROOOOWWWWwwwwww Vrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr Oh Yess!
Interesting little aside my one of my idiot lights - generator or oil pressure 2nd from the bottom has a habit of flashing with the regularity of an indicator from the moment the ignition is switched on. Need to sort that.
Re: Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
You DID have a good day ....chuffed for ya fella .....wont be long before the first ride eh
Re: Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
Sounds like you’ve had a productive day. Pleased for you.
adrianhorsfield@live.co.uk
Sunny Bournemouth. Dorset. UK.
Sunny Bournemouth. Dorset. UK.
Re: Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
Good productive day well done
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Z900A4, Triumph Explorer, Harley Fatboy special 1690, RD350LC, GPZ750 Unitrac
Re: Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
Hi csx355
congratulations! She's alive and kicking! It's an exiting moment when you fire up an old bike you've worked on for the first time in many years! You did it!
As far as the flashing light is concerned: I think you've changed the bulb holders in the idiot light holder if the second light from the bottom is flashing.
The second light from the bottom should be the oil pressure warning light that comes on as soon as you turn the ignition key to the "on"position.
The flashing light could be the one from the stop lamp failure indicator... take a look at the wires on the back of the idiot light holder.
Normally from top to bottom the warning lights are: green (neutral) blue (high beam) red (oil pressure) red (stop lamp).
The flashing of the stop lamp light means that the light bulb in the rear lamp has a failure.
If you change the light bulb in the rear light the flashing will stop.
If the light bulb in the rear light is OK, the stop lamp light of the idiot lights only lits when the brake is applied and goes out as soon as you release the brake.
It's one of the "bugs" that live in a restorated bike. It's up to you to find them and to take them out!
Good luck
Philippe
congratulations! She's alive and kicking! It's an exiting moment when you fire up an old bike you've worked on for the first time in many years! You did it!
As far as the flashing light is concerned: I think you've changed the bulb holders in the idiot light holder if the second light from the bottom is flashing.
The second light from the bottom should be the oil pressure warning light that comes on as soon as you turn the ignition key to the "on"position.
The flashing light could be the one from the stop lamp failure indicator... take a look at the wires on the back of the idiot light holder.
Normally from top to bottom the warning lights are: green (neutral) blue (high beam) red (oil pressure) red (stop lamp).
The flashing of the stop lamp light means that the light bulb in the rear lamp has a failure.
If you change the light bulb in the rear light the flashing will stop.
If the light bulb in the rear light is OK, the stop lamp light of the idiot lights only lits when the brake is applied and goes out as soon as you release the brake.
It's one of the "bugs" that live in a restorated bike. It's up to you to find them and to take them out!
Good luck
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
Thank's Philippe - as always - thats really helpful - I wont get another chance to get in the garage until Thursday by which time I should have the last few items turn up in order to finish up.
I need to fit the cable guides and route all the cables correctly if anyone has some close up pics to help with that I would be grateful. Callipers front and rear. rear master cylinder and front mudguard - I keep making these lists but at least they are getting shorter.
The instrument console / idiot light display was one of the things that I wanted to refurbish as the coloured windows were missing on the original bike.
I need to fit the cable guides and route all the cables correctly if anyone has some close up pics to help with that I would be grateful. Callipers front and rear. rear master cylinder and front mudguard - I keep making these lists but at least they are getting shorter.
The instrument console / idiot light display was one of the things that I wanted to refurbish as the coloured windows were missing on the original bike.
Re: Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
Hi csx355
some pictures to help you
Throttle cables: start by the one with the shortest elbow, this is the "opening" cable, screw it in the switch housing at the front. Make sure you have enough thread left over to turn the nut on.
Turn the cable with the longer elbow in the rear opening of the switch housing. This is the "closing" cable.
Run both the cables through the opening of the cable guide and lead them between the right suspension and the steering stem tube of the frame.
(notice the hook after which the upper brake line runs)
Guide the cables along the upper central frame tube to the carbs. Guide the cable between the right and the central frame tubes. Attach them to the carbs, starting with the decellerator (closing) cable.
Brake lines:
guide the upper brake line after the hook of the cable guide and attach it to the brake splitter
each lower brake line runs through the guide on both sides of the front fork where its attached to the brake pipe, this one passes between the front fork and the front mudguard to be screwed in the brake caliper.
notice the speedometer cable on the left hand side.
Clutch cable
start at the handlebar and run the cable through the cable guide
run the cable through the opening between the steering stem tube and the left upper frame tube, make sure the clutch cable runs behind the main loom
Guide the cable along the left hand downtube of the frame.
Guide it between the tube and the cranckase
Attach the cable to the clutch release mechanism, make sure the cable goes through the opening in the sprocket cover and sits right. Don't forget the spring between the sprocket cover and the clutch release mechanism.
Rev counter cable and speedometer cable
they both run under the lower steering stem, through little cable guides and are attached to the meters
Hope this helped you
Good luck
Philippe
some pictures to help you
Throttle cables: start by the one with the shortest elbow, this is the "opening" cable, screw it in the switch housing at the front. Make sure you have enough thread left over to turn the nut on.
Turn the cable with the longer elbow in the rear opening of the switch housing. This is the "closing" cable.
Run both the cables through the opening of the cable guide and lead them between the right suspension and the steering stem tube of the frame.
(notice the hook after which the upper brake line runs)
Guide the cables along the upper central frame tube to the carbs. Guide the cable between the right and the central frame tubes. Attach them to the carbs, starting with the decellerator (closing) cable.
Brake lines:
guide the upper brake line after the hook of the cable guide and attach it to the brake splitter
each lower brake line runs through the guide on both sides of the front fork where its attached to the brake pipe, this one passes between the front fork and the front mudguard to be screwed in the brake caliper.
notice the speedometer cable on the left hand side.
Clutch cable
start at the handlebar and run the cable through the cable guide
run the cable through the opening between the steering stem tube and the left upper frame tube, make sure the clutch cable runs behind the main loom
Guide the cable along the left hand downtube of the frame.
Guide it between the tube and the cranckase
Attach the cable to the clutch release mechanism, make sure the cable goes through the opening in the sprocket cover and sits right. Don't forget the spring between the sprocket cover and the clutch release mechanism.
Rev counter cable and speedometer cable
they both run under the lower steering stem, through little cable guides and are attached to the meters
Hope this helped you
Good luck
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
Phillipe, great info keep it up and you may get a few proposals of marriage
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif)
Z900A4, Triumph Explorer, Harley Fatboy special 1690, RD350LC, GPZ750 Unitrac
Re: Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
Flashing Brake Idiot Light.
I had this problem with my Z1 and with the Z1000a2 and on both occasions it turned out to be a duff Brake Outage Switch.
Located under the tank, once replace all was ok![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
I had this problem with my Z1 and with the Z1000a2 and on both occasions it turned out to be a duff Brake Outage Switch.
Located under the tank, once replace all was ok
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)
Past 5 Years
1974 UK Z1a, Candy Tone Brown/Orange
1976 KZ900a4, Diamond Dark Green
1978 KZ1000a2, Luminous Green
1976 KZ1000a1, Red
1972 GT750J, Candy Lavender
1974 UK Z1a, Candy Tone Brown/Orange
1976 KZ900a4, Diamond Dark Green
1978 KZ1000a2, Luminous Green
1976 KZ1000a1, Red
1972 GT750J, Candy Lavender
Re: Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
Hi guys
@ glav666
Me and my wife are happily married for allmost 33 years (since 2/2/85)! She's still happy, I'm still married...
Just joking!!!
When someone has a question I'm glad I can help them out. Even if it takes some time and effort.
I remember when I got started on restorating the old Z bikes. I had to find it out myself through trial and error.
Why should we all individually invent the wheel again? It's done a long time ago...that's why there's a forum and a "bike help"section.
@ BigZCas:
when one of my brake outage switches failed there was no idiot light flashing. Maybe it depends on which internal part of it failed, I don't know a lot of electronics...
Cheers
Philippe
@ glav666
Me and my wife are happily married for allmost 33 years (since 2/2/85)! She's still happy, I'm still married...
Just joking!!!
When someone has a question I'm glad I can help them out. Even if it takes some time and effort.
I remember when I got started on restorating the old Z bikes. I had to find it out myself through trial and error.
Why should we all individually invent the wheel again? It's done a long time ago...that's why there's a forum and a "bike help"section.
@ BigZCas:
when one of my brake outage switches failed there was no idiot light flashing. Maybe it depends on which internal part of it failed, I don't know a lot of electronics...
Cheers
Philippe
the differences between a little boy and an adult man is the price and size of their toys!
Re: Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
Hello Philippe,
When I got my Z1000a2 the idiot light did not work and so I changed the bulb, on doing so it flashed permanently as soon as the ignition was switched on.
This stopped when I unplugged the outage switch, I replaced the switch and when plugged back in all was well.
I thought maybe the bulb had blown due to the permanent flashing.
With the Z1 the idiot light did not light at all until the switch was changed.
Think that you are right and there is more than one way the switch can become defective, I was lucky with the Z1 as I tried the one off the Z1000a2 first to prove before buying.
When I got my Z1000a2 the idiot light did not work and so I changed the bulb, on doing so it flashed permanently as soon as the ignition was switched on.
This stopped when I unplugged the outage switch, I replaced the switch and when plugged back in all was well.
I thought maybe the bulb had blown due to the permanent flashing.
With the Z1 the idiot light did not light at all until the switch was changed.
Think that you are right and there is more than one way the switch can become defective, I was lucky with the Z1 as I tried the one off the Z1000a2 first to prove before buying.
Past 5 Years
1974 UK Z1a, Candy Tone Brown/Orange
1976 KZ900a4, Diamond Dark Green
1978 KZ1000a2, Luminous Green
1976 KZ1000a1, Red
1972 GT750J, Candy Lavender
1974 UK Z1a, Candy Tone Brown/Orange
1976 KZ900a4, Diamond Dark Green
1978 KZ1000a2, Luminous Green
1976 KZ1000a1, Red
1972 GT750J, Candy Lavender
Re: Z1000A1 - Basket Case Build
Jeez Philippe - that's perfect - I don't know about a marriage proposal but I'd certainly shake your hand in a really reserved British Way - alternatively have a proper Cornish
"CHEERS PARD - BLEDDY ANSOM"
"CHEERS PARD - BLEDDY ANSOM"
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