Double the troublezz. AMA style Racecrafters Z1000 and Moriwaki Z1R Turbo.

[Ginger Bear]

Rob, in the last pic, whats the extension on the n/s shock mount for?

[zed1015]

Rob, in the last pic, whats the extension on the n/s shock mount for?

It's one of the stock XJR chain guard mounts.

[zed1015]

With the spindles done I can now throw the wheels in and centre them to the shock mounts.

The 1000B is having ZX7R wheels and the rear isn't too much trouble with an appropriately sized stepped spacer turned up and pressed into a ZX7 brake hanger where the roller bearing used to sit.
The hanger doesn't need to float as it did on the ZX7 as the torque arm will be fixed to the mount on the XJR swinger instead of the original location on the ZX7's frame.

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And a suitable sized spacer spun up for the sprocket side to complete the job.
The obligatory 8mm was also taken off the carrier face while I was at it to align the sprocket with a 5/8th's offset front when the time comes to fit the chain.

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One down and one to go

[Gus]

The obligatory 8mm was also taken off the carrier face while I was at it to align the sprocket with a 5/8th's offset front when the time comes to fit the chain.[/b]

Hi Rob.

Out of curiosity, how did you get the studs out of the sprocket carrier?

I just had to do a ZX9R E one and the two nut method and a stud removal socket and heat would not budge them an iota.

I had to get my mate to machine the backs of them and then drill them out because it looked like they were press splayed from the back.

Cheers

Gus

[zed1015]

If the locknut method doesn't work i just use a cam type Britool stud extractor and a long breaker bar if I have to.
It never fails to get them out and always chews the threads but I fit new studs anyway as the originals are generally always manky and stand out like a sore thumb against all the new stuff.
Never seen them splayed out on the back though just glued in with the factory thread lock which usually softens with a bit of heat.

[zed1015]

For the Moriwaki I've gone for ZX12R wheels as I think the angular spokes suit the Z1R's styling although the 6 inch rears wider chain run will require some frame massaging later on.

This wasn't as easy as the zx7's 5.5 inch and what I thought would be the usual fairly straightforward bearing swap became a bit more involved.
I'd decided to go from the zx12's 25mm spindle size to the XJR 28mm and this is where things got less simple.
The zx12's bearings are 52mm x 25 x 15mm but oddly there is no 52 x 28 x 15 bearing available for the conversion only a slimmer 52 x 28 x 12 which the XJR uses.

This wouldn't be an issue but the zx12 uses the right hand wheel bearing captive and secured with a circlip to keep the wheel from moving sideways.
The fix for this was to make and fit a 3mm spacer in the bearing housing to take up the difference and keep the outer face of the bearing where it should be, ready for the caliper side wheel spacer.

Original 15mm wide bearing on left and replacement 12mm bearing and 3mm spacer on right

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Spacer in situ

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And bearing in with circlip

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The knock on effect of this was that the spacer tube between the bearings had to be 6mm longer from 152mm to 158mm and of course 28mm bore instead of 25mm.
The zx12's tube wasn't thick enough to take being bored out another 3mm without becoming too thin but luckily i had a 28mm bore tube from a Suzuki srad wheel in the scrap bin that just needed extending to suit with a pressed on section which then allowed the other side bearing to be fitted at the correct distance ready for the sprocket carrier.

Srad tube and extension

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Pressed on and turned to the correct length

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Then on to the brake side combined spacer/caliper mount.

Same set up type as the zx7 but all one piece this time and with the 12's hub casting offset to the left this means having a substantial 30.6mm wide section between the caliper hanger and swingarm to get the wheel perfectly central.

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And now to tackle the sprocket carrier.

Because of the zx12's offset hub there's not a cats chance of the wheel fitting in the arm with the carrier in standard trim and even with the studs out the casting is 10mm too wide so some mechanical massaging is needed to eek back some clearance and make it fit.

I did take a pic of this but the PC seems to have ate it so some imagination needed for that one

There's a little bit of room already between the back of the carrier and the cush rubbers and further scope to move the carrier inboard, so as part of this 2mm was taken from the inside face of the carrier that sits next to the wheel bearing housing.

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And then also skim a couple of mill off the fingers that sit in the cush rubbers which also squared them up at the same time so that the hub will sit parallel on the chuck when it's flipped round for the next set of operations.

[zed1015]

Once spun round and centered in the 4 jaw I recessed the carrier bearing housing by 2.5mm.

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And fitted a 4mm slimmer 55 x 30 x 9 mm bearing in place of the original 55 x 30 x 13 mm item.

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Then made this internal cutting tool to cut the 2mm wide and 1mm deep circlip groove which I gently touched up to the bearing to guide it.

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And took the cut.

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Circlip fits nice and snug with 4.5mm between the new and old circlip grooves.

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Now make the carrier bearing spacer sleeve for the 28mm spindle.

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Which is also 3mm thinner on the spacer portion than the original 10mm thick one on the right.

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And slots in here to eventually butt up against the wheel bearing.

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[zed1015]

And finally after some careful measurements make the 9.55mm sprocket side wheel spacer.

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Which when slotted in place shows how much needs to come off the carrier.

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Excess shaved off which exposes the old circlip groove and no room for a dust seal but the bearing has good watertight rubber seals and the spacer is a close fit.

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Spacer sits 3mm proud

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Remove the studs

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And the whole assembly slips in .

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Couldn't have been much tighter.

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Sprocket carrier still needs cutting back for chain alignment but has been left untouched for now until I get the mock up engine in.
With the hub being offset there may be a fair bit need taking off to align with a 7/8ths offset front but I do have a very cunning plan for the front sprocket that will enable minimal material to be taken off the carrier and maybe even retain a stock flat front sprocket rather than a £50 + offset one.
Before that though the next job is to get the swingarm pivots trimmed and slotted in the frames.

[Mr Puffin]

Great workmanship as usual Zed, really appreciate the detailed postings AS a matter of interest how wide is the XJR swingarm pivot ?

[zed1015]

Great workmanship as usual Zed, really appreciate the detailed postings AS a matter of interest how wide is the XJR swingarm pivot ?

Thanks.
The swingarm width will be coming up in the next post shortly.

[zed1015]

With the wheels centered it's time to trim the swingarms and get them mounted.
The bare XJR arm without the cups and shims is 253mm wide and the Zed frame is 235mm so taking into account the 2mm each side for the cup and shim the arm needs 22mm off the pivot tube to slot in.

Every one of these XJR arms I've done has been very accurate from the factory and dropping a straight edge from either side of the bare rim and measuring out from the center confirms this so exactly 11mm needs removing from either end of the pivot tube.

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I start by sinking in the s/a bearings by 11mm each side using a home made cutting tool which is just an old socket machined to a tight sliding fit in the bearing bore and some teeth ground on the end.

It's simple but accurate and only needs a few turns by hand to do the job.

Then after shortening the bearing tube by the same amount .

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I refit the bearings.

And narrow the pivot using another home made tool that fly cuts the ends .
This uses the s/a bearing tube to as a guide to self align and keep the ends square to the bore .
This is just an old 20mm spindle cross drilled that holds a piece of tool steel and powered with a hand drill.

I should really make a fixture for the lathe or something but this does the job easy enough and couldn't be any more accurate .

Before.

And after.

[zed1015]

End caps with shims popped back on and both arms with their respective wheels fitted in the frames.

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[tlc]

Superb Rob.
So much easier to understand with pictures

[MDM]

These two are going to be great Rob -watching with interest!

[ADRIAN H]

Superb, wish I had your skills.