Clutch holding tool anyone? And other things

[TiBolts]

I need to strip my Z1000-A1 project's engine (bought the bike in bits, but motor complete). I did a compression test and it's not bad but not consistent across all four pots, plus the head is manky and needs a good clean up, and I think it needs valve stem oil seals anyway. I checked the valve clearances, and they're OK albeit that a couple were on the lower clearance.
Anyways, I will need a clutch holding tool. Which is the best one to go for - eg Laser general one? Or does the club lend out tools - I'm sure I read that somewhere

And do I need to remove the rotor off the crank when I strip it, or can I leave it on? I thought I could leave it but the manual says it should be removed 'if the crank is going to be removed'.

Also, one of the lugs that hold the starter motor down is broken off (I have the broken bit) and I want to get it welded back on. Any recommendations for someone who can do that in my area (Gloucestershire)?

Sorry, lots of questions but I know many of you out there are interested in other people's projects and are keen to help! One day I might even post some photos.

Cheers all!

[Gus]

Whereabouts are you?

Cheers

Gus

[TiBolts]

I'm in Gloucester.

[Gus]

Hi.
If you are stripping the engine I know someone who would probably be able to do the welding (do you mean the lug is broken off the starter motor itself?).

I think (if I can find it) a home made clutch holding tool but don't hold me to finding it immediately

Gus

[TiBolts]

OK thanks. No, the lug is broken off the upper crankcase, but it's broken off fairly flush. You know the two small lugs with a 6 mm thread for the two starter motor retaining bolts? The rearmost one is broken.

[Gus]

I'm sure he could fix that for you

Gus

[Graham-A2]

If you are after a clutch holding tool to remove the centre nut of the clutch - I have just been through that - '78 Z1000 A2 US import. I bought an EBC one and it wasn't really worth it. The tool is cut out from a single sheet of steel, so is fairly 2 dimensional if you can picture it. The splines on the outside of the clutch are in line with the cases so it can only go on slightly angled. The nut is on REALLY tight if it's not been disturbed somehow and so a long breaker bar still wont shift it - although I did bend the EBC tool in fairly interesting ways!

After reading here and a couple of places I borrowed a mates cordless impact driver and the nut was off in no time.

[TiBolts]

I have a cordless impact driver
But did you still need to hold the clutch somehow? Or did it come free just with the initial momentum?
I will hopefully get the cases off at the weekend and start attacking it.

[Gus]

Found them, two different sizes so I am assuming one fits Z and one fits J type.

You're welcome to try rather than buy but they would probably benefit from an impact gun on the socket as previously suggested.

Gus

[Graham-A2]

I didn't use the tool at all - just straight use of the impact driver. It was magic !

I did waste a long time a previously pulling like crazy on a breaker bar (of impressive length) whilst trying to hold the clutch tool in place - with many slips from the EBC tool. I notice that the original Kawasaki tool shown in my vintage workshop manual has some depth to it so that it can be held on slightly away from the engine cases whilst the business end is well hooked up to the clutch splines. Bit redundant with an impact gun though - maybe useful for retightening ?

[TiBolts]

Cool, thanks all. Gus, I have sent you a private message. At least, I thought I had. I've done it twice now but it doesn't seem to have worked. Odd, because I've messaged other members before.

[Gus]

They don't go from your outbox until the receiver has read it.

Oh ........Read it

[TiBolts]

Update:

I put the DeWalt impact driver on the clutch nut and it came undone

So I don't need the tool. Not sure if I need to pull the rotor off? From memory, I thought you could remove the crank OK without removing the rotor, but the Kawasaki manual seems to suggest otherwise, although it's not clear. The Haynes manual is useless.

There's no play or anything in the starter clutch, so I shouldn't need to have to get the rotor off. I don't have a puller for that...

[wheelysteve]

You can definately remove the crank with the rotor /starter gear still in place. Not sure if youcan put it back in one piece as I haven't got that far yet !

[Philippe]

Hi guys
you can put the cranckshaft back in the crackcase with the rotor and starter gear on. Don't worry, it's a piece of cake.
GrtZ
Philippe