After Market Swing Arm

[Skid Mark]

Evening all!
This is probably a foolish question but...
I have a braced swing arm on the 1000r. The shocks are in a horrible state and need replacing. Can anyone advise on the Centre to centre distance between bolt holes on the original genuine shocks, and just to check the geometry of the braced arm, the c-c of the arm pivot and the mount for the shock on a genuine swing arm?
Just checking the set up I have is in the same field as the original.
Also, as the Arm is a modification, there probably isn't any point fitting OEM shocks, what would you recommend? Ohlins perhaps?

[ADRIAN H]

That's a JMC swing arm, have one on my Z1000A2

[Skid Mark]

That's a JMC swing arm, have one on my Z1000A2

Are the original shocks compatible with it

[ADRIAN H]

That's a JMC swing arm, have one on my Z1000A2

Are the original shocks compatible with it

The shocks fitted on my Z1000A2 are 350mm Marzocchi Stradas (same length and fitting as standard). So the answer is YES.

But you could upgrade to Hagon shocks, KONI's or Ohlins if you wished - just checkthe length and end fittings before you buy.

[Skid Mark]

Thanks Adrian,
Good to know for sure.
Phil

[CAT3]

Or, you could get Maxton units custom made to suit.

They do older style units that they can make the length you want with the benefits of custom adjustable damping, etc to suit your bike, your weight & use.
Wouldn't imagine that would be any more expensive than a pair of off-the-shelf Ohlins or Nitrons.

[ADRIAN H]

There’s a Gpz1100 ELR clone on eBay with a JMC arms.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1983-Kawasak ... 890.l49292

[Skid Mark]

Thanks for the advice, plenty to think about.
Regarding the Swing arm, I'm get this Vapour blasted along with the casing to tidy it up. I don't expect to be riding on salted roads, but should I treat it with some type of clear coat or (gulp!) send it to be anodized?

[CAT3]

If it were me I'd have the arm polished & just keep it polished. It takes more work, but if it's lacqured that can always chip & once water gets under it you'll end up having to polish it anyway ! Espicially if it's not your everyday transport so won't be getting used on salty roads, etc.

The other option would be ceracote, which is supposed to be hard wearing. A lot of people have their engines done with this stuff on an Italian forum I frequent.

I'd avoid anodising as you will most likely get different shades between the alloy box section & the welds, which may well look a bit iffy.

[Skid Mark]

I sent out a few inquiries, Hagon. Maxton and Nitron all came back pretty quickly. Ohlins supplier and a few others are still MIA.
I'll fill in spec sheets and see what these three can offer, but its looking like it'll be a fraction of the cost of the units on the parts list via CMSNL.
Thanks for the advice lads