Fork advice needed

[JimBoUK]

Hi,
After battling with a rounded off Allen bolt in the bottom of one fork leg I’ve managed to dismantle the forks on my US import GPZ1100B1.
The bits I have don’t match the pictures in the manual and I’d like some advice or different pictures to help me rebuild them.

There are pictures below including the manual I have. In the manual it says the KZ1100B should have the forks to match the diagram for KZ/Z1000-K, KZ1000-M

The first thing is my springs are progressive which is not mentioned in the manual. They were different ways up in each fork leg !
Which way up should they go ?
Could they be upgrades ?

The next thing is the small springs at the bottom.
The manual shows a single spring (item 28) and a piston ring (item 27)
My forks have 2 springs where one is wound tighter than the other and no piston ring.

Any advice on all this will be really appreciated.
Thanks

[Al]

Progressive springs are likely an attempt at an upgrade.
Piston ring is the fragile nylon band round the top of the damper rod. Its shown in this diagram immediately below it which isnt very helpful.
B1 has one rebound spring and B2 has two. With both would differently, its a basic progressive effect the same as the main springs.
Diagram is from the Clymer manual.

AL

[JimBoUK]

Thanks for the reply.
That’s good, I do have the piston

So what way up do the progressive main springs go and what way up do the pair of small springs go ?

[Mr Bump]

Fork springs will be tighter coils at the top.

Generally speaking where progressively wound springs are used the tighter (heavier) end is the end that is fixed and the lighter end is the one that moves, like valve springs.

I expect on the rebound springs it'll make no observable difference which way round they are.

Olly