Have a recently recommissioned fairly standard Z1 from 1973 that starts and runs well, but when it gets hot after a good run it wont hold tick over and stutters on pickup if the revs fall below 2k. Running in traffic makes things worse with the engine stalling abruptly when you come to a halt and needing a few goes of the starter to get it running again.
Carbs were stripped and cleaned during recommissioning and seals replaced along with a new fuel tap. Since then I've had the choke seals redone, but the problem persists. Any thoughts?
Hello Guest User,
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
Please feel free to have a look around the forum but be aware that as an unregistered guest you can't see all of it and you can't post.
To access these 'Registered Users Only' areas simply register and login.
Z1 tickover problem when bike is hot
Moderators: chrisu, paul doran, Taffus, KeithZ1R
Re: Z1 tickover problem when bike is hot
How recent are the points capacitors / condensors?
Quick, cheap and easy to replace and the failure mode is frequently heat related.
There are good and bad new ones.
AL
Quick, cheap and easy to replace and the failure mode is frequently heat related.
There are good and bad new ones.
AL
1981 J1
Re: Z1 tickover problem when bike is hot
Thks Al. I've not checked the condensers (or the coils for that matter). Wouldn't they affect the running at speed more than the tick over? Do you have a recommended source for condensers?
Re: Z1 tickover problem when bike is hot
Float levels? It sounds more like fuel than electrics to me, but of course it could be one of several things.
As I found out, a tiny adjustment can make a big difference here. As you should have the early type carbs, check you have the correct 2.6mm float valves fitted. Most rebuild kits seem to have 2.0mm ones, and that's what was used in my rebuilt carbs. I couldn't get the float height right with these and buggered up two of my float 'tangs' trying to set the level. Using the right valves I soon got it right again.
Z Power do the correct measurement tool for the early carbs with the big 17mm drain plugs, as well as the correct float valves and matching needles, although being genuine KHI they were horribly expensive.
As I found out, a tiny adjustment can make a big difference here. As you should have the early type carbs, check you have the correct 2.6mm float valves fitted. Most rebuild kits seem to have 2.0mm ones, and that's what was used in my rebuilt carbs. I couldn't get the float height right with these and buggered up two of my float 'tangs' trying to set the level. Using the right valves I soon got it right again.
Z Power do the correct measurement tool for the early carbs with the big 17mm drain plugs, as well as the correct float valves and matching needles, although being genuine KHI they were horribly expensive.
1974 Z1A
1969 H**** CL450 ‘Scrambler’
2005 H-D XL1200R Sportster
1985 Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera Sport
1969 H**** CL450 ‘Scrambler’
2005 H-D XL1200R Sportster
1985 Porsche 911 3.2 Carrera Sport
Re: Z1 tickover problem when bike is hot
Could be running weak mixture, what do the plugs look like?
I see Zed people.
Re: Z1 tickover problem when bike is hot
Do you have a recommended source for condensers?
I'm sorry I don't, I've had electronic ignition for the last some odd years.
As others have said it could be any one of a number of issues and elimination is the only thing if there isn't a clear culprit.
This makes interesting reading though if you do get new condensers.
Should be easy ish to check if you get it hot and have a look at the points whilst its running in a dark garage.
https://nonlintec.com/sprite/cap_failure/
AL
1981 J1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 46 guests