Double the troublezz. AMA style Racecrafters Z1000 and Moriwaki Z1R Turbo.

[zed1015]

With the 28 additional bits of bracing welded in it's time to get the last few fiddly jobs out of the way starting with some threaded mounts

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To take a one piece alloy mudguard ( Recycled road signs to the rescue again )

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Some bracketry hung off the original tail mount stops the end of the mudguard and tail light flapping about.

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And a Hodna blackbird rear light the same as i used on the Drouin fits the bill and looks like it's meant to be there.

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With the rear light bolted on you can't get to the two concealed tail mount bolts ( and vice versa) so machined up a couple of snug fitting tapered stainless pegs which screw in place of the original bolts

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And the tail simply pushes on to them and is secured by the two bolts at the front under the seat in a similar way the later Z1R etc tails attach..

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While i was at it i also made a couple of stainless coil adaptor brackets that bolt to the frame and allow the further most Dyna coil mounting holes to be used

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Which give plenty of clearance for the terminals and no risk of shorting

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[zed1015]

And this is where we are as of today.
Just battery and electrical mounts to figure out under the seat hump, finish the exhaust and a couple of small brackets and it's ready for the build proper.

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[Bill P]

Great reading as usual , Hope the knee's goin on ok to

[zed1015]

Next big item on the list is the exhaust so gathered the raw materials to make the link from the Exhaustcraft headers to a silencer.

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For the price, this very nice merge collector was cheaper ready made than the materials and effort to make my own.

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The only fly in the ointment is that the slip joints were 2mm wider dia than claimed so some jiggery pokery is required to tighten up the fit for the headers and keep the gasses from escaping.

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First thought was to cough up for a set of these exhaust expanders but the cheap ones are notorious for breaking the segments and decent ones require more outlay than a ready made exhaust system which sort of defeats the object.

So time for another cunning plan i think

[zed1015]

After a bit of a dig about in the scrap bin i come up with this little lot.
An off cut of mild steel bar, a 20mm Yamaha R6 front wheel spindle, a 20mm id swingarm bearing pivot tube and some 6mm steel plate.
Due to the previously mentioned technical glitch of my PC eating all the detailed pics there's no images of the actual fabrication so some imagination needed.

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.
The chunk of steel bar was turned to the required size, bored out 25mm , a 10 degree internal taper turned into each end, a couple of grooves cut for the 'O' rings and then the whole thing was carefully freehand cut into six sections with the angle grinder, de-burred and numbered to keep them in order of appearance .

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Then assembled with the 'O' rings to hold them together

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The 20mm R6 spindle got a matching 10 degree external taper turned on the head end and an m6 threaded bolt tapped midway.

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Then finally a section of bearing tube received another 10 degree external taper, a slot for the R6 spindles 6mm bolt and was then welded to a section of the 6mm plate so it can be securely held in the vice.

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Then slot the whole lot together

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In the vice ready for testing. Bolt in the slot allows full travel of the R6 spindle drawbar but prevents it and the pipe to be expanded from rotating when tightening the spindle bolt .

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Fingers crossed this actually works and a days graft isn't wasted.

[zed1015]

Fortunately i'd had Dave at Exhaust craft leave the headers long so that i could cut them to my own length which means i have some sacrificial offcuts to use a guinea pigs without risking damaging the actual pipes.
So with everything lubed up and a few turns with the aid of a long breaker bar it actually bloody worked

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And made a very neat snug fitting job.

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So bit the bullet and proceeded to the actual pipes which went without issue.

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Very happy with the results and glad i didn't just waste valuable funds on some of those hand held pipe expanders which i'm sure you couldn't get the required force on them without having to also grip and risk damaging or marking the actual exhaust. .

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Now to get on with the next stage and make the link pipe and can.

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[zed1015]

And talking of the end can, here's a Kerker i aquired from a club member.
The one or two minor dents and scrapes from the original strap mount etc have disappeared along with just over a third of it's length to improve the propotions.
The original mild steel baffle in the middle will be replaced by the stainless one at the bottom.
The original baffle contained a lot of dead space so even though the can is much shorter it will actually be no louder and possibly slightly quieter than the original due to more working baffle length.

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And once the exhaust is complete i've got this scarce little trinket stashed away to finish it off.

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Original style genuine NOS embossed badge will look much better and in keeping with the era than the later Supertrapp version.

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Just need to get it positioned on the bike and i'll be able to connect the system together.

[750 R1]

Good to see you back at it Rob....!

[zed1015]

Great reading as usual , Hope the knee's goin on ok too

Thanks.
The knee's going great.
Don't even notice it most of the time now, especially since i've now got shut of more than the near 3 stone i piled on in 2020 whilst waiting for the op.

[zed1015]

Another little job off the list this morning in preparation for mounting the exhaust.

Drilled a couple of 10mm holes at 80mm centers in the frame

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Then turned up a couple of 12mm OD m8 internally threaded stubs with the ends reduced for a tight fit in the frame.

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Which were jigged onto a flat plate to keep them square in relation to each other whilst welding.

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Job done and now to mock up a hanger to get the end can in the best position.

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[750 R1]

Nice work on the pipe expander, a great example of, "Necessity is the mother of invention"...

[zed1015]

Exhaust link pipe done today
After much tea drinking and contemplating the end can position i finally decided on the best looking location and hung it in place on a bit of scrap ally plate then set about linking to the collector with as few welded sections as possible

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Link pipe tube is large 60mm bore in 304 stainless to match the downpipes.

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Got the can tucked in as tight as possible

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Just waiting for the postie to deliver some 5mm stainless plate so i can make the 3 bolt flange for the can, then make the new baffles and a proper hanger and that's another major job done.

[r3sc]

Top job, looking spot on!

[zed1015]

4mm and 5mm thick 316 Stainless plate finally turned up.
Enough for the Kerker and the flanges on the turbo.

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Cut a piece of 5mm 120 x 120.
Marked the center and pcd then drilled the mounting holes.

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Into the 4 jaw and bored the hole for a tight fit on the pipe

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Then use the disc cutter and chopped off the corners etc so there's minimal material to be removed when it's chucked in the 3 jaw for rounding off and a light skim

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Make sure it fits the can

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Then after a bit of shaping weld it to the link pipe

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After bringing the weld bead flush with the flange surface the can is bolted on.

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Out in the daylight to have a proper look.
Can't quite put my finger on it yet but somethings a little off .
Can't decide if the can needs slightly more kick, the link pipe needs tweaking closer to the frame or both.
Think i'll get the foot controls mocked up and on to see how it gels before i decide whether to give it the chop and start again

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[Z1streetfighter71]

Next level work on the exhaust mate and real tight to the frame, i especially like the staggered down pipes they create real nice lines! and here's me thinking I'm so cool fabricating exhaust hangers... Looking forward to seeing this come to life!