cam chain tensioners

[RALPHARAMA]

the lock screw is to hold it in while you assemble the thing. after thats its not used.

ChrisU, I didn't want to shout straight away, but I was pretty sure that this statement was 100% wrong but I wanted to check in my Genuine workshop manual before opening my big gob.

The cam chain is tensioned when one of the pistons is at TDC, doesn't matter which. The lock nut is released and the bolt slackened off. This allows the spring to put the correct tension on the cam chain. The bolt is then tightened up to the correct torque setting and then the lock nut is also tightened to stop it from moving. Basically the spring is for pre-tension and I would imagine were it to be allowed to do it's own thing then there is a danger of something going catastrophically Pete Tong!

[chrisu]

are you looking at the manual for the Mk2 (square cam cover) engine - the one with the automatic chain tensioner ?

[Rich]

I don't think he is - as you said before the bolt on the mk2 only holds the tensioner in place when refitting it to the engine. Once the bolt is released and then tightened it does not grip on the tensioner. There is no lock nut on the Mk2 the bolt bottoms onto the casing

[Big Fluff]

So, as I first thought, the earlier type are indeed 'manual' adjusters.
If the screw isn't touching the rod then there's bugger all stopping the rod being pushed back in is there.?
Also, if this early type were a 'self tensioning' type, then how are you suppposed to set it all the way in for when assembling engines if the rod can't go back in.?

Can I then presume that the genuine Kawasaki workshop manual is correct in stating that it is a manual tensioner.?

[Pigford]

As this link suggests, the older kawasaki tensioners weren't great...

Later types (Suzuki for eg) have a ratchet system that works well. Its under constant spring tension & has a fine set of teeth that clicks in every couple of mm so it can't slacken off & f**k the valves unlike the Zed one

Go billet every time

[Keefleaf]

Phil Manzano used to drill and tap another "stop bolt"into the end of the tensioner body.This put a second bolt behind the end of plunger
preventing any movement.Little cost,Big improvement.

[RALPHARAMA]

My manual is for the Z1000A1 with suppliment at the back for the A2.

I've never had any cam chain tensioning issues. I don't race my bike but keep it in good tune. Never had any issues with the A2 either.

[chrisu]

so not the A3/A4 then.................

[Steve R]

Pigford and / or Steve, with the billet cam chain tensioners, how do you tell when the chain is tight enough to set it in the first place?

[Pigford]

Tension is set by hand

Now Ralphy's gonna kick off coz it ain't by Snap-on Torque wrench but you can wind it in by hand until resistance is felt, then back off a 1/4 - 1/2 turn..... Then use the lock nut to keep in place



I've had these items (APE on me Zeds and Orient Express on my GSXR) and they are good bits of kit

Any tuned old bike worth its salt (or standard for peace of mind) will should one

[debben1]

I prefer to remove the spark plugs, the engine will turn over freely and if there is any free play in the chain you can feel the crankshaft rock back and forward by a milimeter or two, just adust the free play out of the camchain so that any movement of the crankshaft gives resistance as the cams and followers move with the crankshaft. You only need to readjust when you hear the camshaft ticking or just check it when ever you check the valve clearances, by not preloading the camchain like the stock tensioner you also reduce camchain wheel wear and reduce friction, good for power and reliabilty.
Drilling and tapping the back of the thin cast alloy body is risky and if the camchain does try to force the plunger back and the casting breaks you will do lots of damage, why bother or risk it for such a small outlay in buying the proper part. Just to make you all feel better the Suzuki tensioners also suffer with the stock tensioners, the spring loaded ratchet is a little more reliable but as the ratchet settles into a notch and the camchain stretched a little more the camchains become loose and rattle, this is a common complaint with the GSXR's. Regards, Steve

[Steve R]

Thanks Guys, more expense

[RALPHARAMA]

Pigiron (as Paully decrees your are to be called now) ...l at what point are you going to realise that this pic is ssooooooooo out of focus as to be laughable. The sad fact is that despite the poor quality of this blurred photo (clearly snapped by a biscuit addict waiting for a fix) there is clear evidence of nasty electrical connectors that should never be inflicted on such a regal machine as a big zed. Shame on you To make matters worse you have demeaned your long suffering machine with nasty, juvenile brightly coloured anodising. May I save the honour of your Zed by asking that you save her embarrassment by polishing out all vestiges of nasty bolt-on boy racer multi coloured anodising and shitty caravan connectors as used by 17year old vauxhall customisers

[chrisNI]

To be fair lot of the cam chain tensioners seem to be supplied in blue but once the bikes's built up there's very little chance of it being seen.

However the use of the red electrical connectors is a much nore serious gaff and is indeed inexcusable , as is the blurry photo.

[Steve Cooke]

You can't get away with anything on here Mark.