Aqua Blasting

[kiwikodi]

Evening all

I was wondering if anyone would have the time to list all the parts from an engine that should be sent off for aquablasting.

I have done a complete strip down of the engine (early 73), just need to clean off that gaskets and I believe she’s ready to go. So my first question is:

1. Which parts exactly should I be sending off for blasting?
2. Which parts would I then be painting black?
3. Should I be getting all the screws and bolts zinc plated? If so how does one keep track of what then goes where on their return?
4. I’m having ‘issues’ removing the oil seals in the valve guides without destroying them. Assume I would just replace those anyway?
5. I appreciate the importance of keeping the valves labeled but was it just as important keeping the springs etc married with the right valve?

Any other tips anyone wants to throw in the pot for when the eventual rebuild starts to occur?!!

Sorry it’s my first crack at this and I have a 750/4 lined up next so it’s all a bit of a learning curve for me.

FYI bike ran beautifully before I found the end of the cam chain guide in the sump so decided - what the heck......what could possibly go wrong.

[wheelysteve]

I have recently done a Z1R engine, to look like this after vapour blasting and painting with 2 pack satin black. This would be the top/bottom crankcase halves, barrels, cylinder head and cam cover except for the polished end half circles.

Whilst getting the engine done in satin, you could get the top yoke, switchgear cases, master cylinder, brake calipers and rear light mount done. If you get a copy of John Brookes excellent restorers book for the early Z1's, this will show you exactly what is what regarding originality. (1972-73 Restorer's Parts Book).

The cases need a THOROUGH cleaning of all the oilways and passages before rebuilding. The edges of the cylinder fins will also need to be rubbed back to alloy and polished. Get all the screws and bolts replated (except the internal crank ones). Use the parts manual to identify all the correct screw lengths, especially the ones that screw into blind holes. Oh, and clean every single thread out with a tap before rebuilding. I left my barrel studs in for the blasting/painting. You can protect the centre studs from road grime by putting heatshrink over them before refitting the barrels.

All the seals and gaskets should be renewed as a matter of course. Use Viton stem seals, these are good ones :
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kawasaki-Z1R ... SwqbxZ6Ey0

Keep all the individual valve parts together, I used the seal strip bags. This includes the valves, springs, seat ,shims and follower.

I found the rebuild fairly straight forward. Best to do a "dry" assembly first to see how things fit. Take care to correctly locate the bearings on the spigots in the cases, do not force the cases together. Use this sparingly on the joints....I applied it with an artists brush:

https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/three-b ... tbetb1215/

Renew ALL the cam chain sprockets, tensioners, rubbers and chain. It's expensive and the tensioner roller has been in short supply lately but I think Z Power have them now. Whilst the crankcases are split you should consider having the clutch basket refurbed as the springs wear in this and you have to strip the engine to get to it. MK Classics can do this job for you.

Take your time and good luck. PM me if you want any other details.

[kiwikodi]

Thanks loads for your response.

Have sent you a PM

Kodi

[Mr Bump]

All good advice. I don't know how detailed the restoration book is but you'll need decent data for engine component inspection and rebuild. The Haynes manual for these is particularly unreliable, so a factory manual is definitely the best reference if you can find it.

I always photograph, take notes and bag up logically as I strip an engine. For example, the oil pump gets inspected then goes in a bag with the bolts, all dowels and the oil seal, even though the seal will be renewed it'll serve as a reminder that there should be one in there.

Finding some storage boxes with lots of sections in them is well worth it, you can keep valve train parts in them in 8 groups. Keep hold of one or more of the old valve guide seals so you can compare them with new. I do this with all gaskets and parts, they don't actually go in the bin until the engine is finished, just in case you have something that doesn't add up.

Be absolutely fastidious about making sure all oilways are clean. Be meticulous and take your time over cleaning all gasket mating faces well. This can be quite time consuming.

Definitely make sure you remember to fit the oddly profiled oil seals between the case halves and the oil pump and lower case, make sure the piston rings are in the right grooves and the right way up, valve springs have a correct orientation. Make sure all dowels go back in the right places. It won't select 2nd gear until the engine is running and the back wheel is turning.

Can't think of anything else.

Hate to see guys who are willing to try something new getting comments like 'if you don't know what you are doing get someone who does to do it'. Not true, it's your bike and how did anyone learn except by doing? If you need it you'll get lots of constructive support on this site from genuine experts who behave like adults, not shouty kids.

Enjoy.