Kawasaki workshop special tools

[candytone]

Hi All
Newby here, I am at present rebuilding a Z1100 Shaft A3 engine, I was wondering if there is a kawasaki special tool hire or loan system with in here.
I need to use the rotor tool holder NO. 57001-308 if anybody can help or point me in the right direction
I would be very grateful.
Safe Z riding

Thanks - Gary

[ADRIAN H]

I am not sure if there are any tools which are loaned out ? You would need to contact Jerry (club president) and enquire.

Is the engine in the bike, if it is you could lock up the back wheel with the back brake pedal held down. Allowing you to loosen off the rotar bolt.

Another alternative would be to use a clutch locking tool EBC make them ref - CT019 for the Z1, Z900, Z1000 up to 1981, you'd have to check whether they are suitable for your Z1100 Shaft.

Good luck.

[moizeau]

I made one for My GPZ11, just got to be careful not to break the magnets when setting the depth.

Alternatively you could use an impact wrench. You still need to get the rotor off, so there is a special tool, or, with the tool pictured above along with an (I think for the GPZ anyway) 18x1.25 bolt and add a ball bearing if you're feeling flash, that will draw the rotor off.

[Mr Bump]

I've successfully removed them using a big strap wrench and a gpz1100 rear axle. The axle is the same thread as the internal thread on the rotor. Ive got a spare axle that I've ground a couple of flats into it so I can get a spanner on it. If I was likely to be doing the job often I'd buy a bolt as suggested above or cut the axle down and weld a nut onto it.

The job is much easier done with the engine in the frame if possible.

1- using a big strap wrench (about 30 mm wide) wrapped around the outside of the rotor and a 1/2" breaker bar counterhold the rotor and undo the retaining bolt that secures the rotor onto the crank. You can apply a surprising amount of torque through a big strap wrench.

1- grease the threads & wind a suitable bolt or gpz rear axle into the rotor internal thread

2- using the big strap wrench and 1/2 breaker bar, counterhold the rotor and do the bolt up as tight as you can.

3- if it doesn't come off give the head of the bolt a sharp whack with a hammer.

4- if it still won't go repeat the process.

5- if it still refuses leave the bolt wound tight into the threads so it's under tension and apply a bit of heat to the rotor using blowtorch. Don't tickle it, give it a good short sharp blast of heat. Hopefully the rotor will pop off as soon you've applied enough heat. Try whacking the end of the bolt again too.

If its tight it'll release with quite a bang and jump off of the crank. Might be worth spreading an old towel or similar onto the floor under the engine to make sure the rotor isn't damaged if it hits the ground.

Much easier to do this with the engine still in the frame. Using a strap wrench on an engine sitting on a bench will be awkward as the engine will try and squirm about.

Olly

[candytone]

Thanks to Adrian and Olly
I should have explained better, I have the old rotor cup off, I removed it with a puller, although after Ollys point, I could have used the rear axal , still good to know that method, the reason for placing the post was to see if I could get my hand on the rotor tool so as to install a new roror cup, when I stripped all this side of the engine which is still in the bike but will be comeing out soon, the magnets where damaged so I placed a small diamamter bar through one hole and then tightened up the puller bolt and off it poped , mine you it did get quite a beating with a electric impact driver, I would not normally use this sledge hammer to crack a wallnut approch but the fact that the magnets where damaged did not really make much difference.
I will be looking into seeing if I can obtain the magnets from somewhere, who knows at this stage , in order to overhaul and balance the old rotor cup, we will see on that idea, when it comes to replace the new one I will either see if I can make a holding tool based on yours Adrian or may be the strap idea will be used, I will check the torque figures.
Still got a way to go yet , need to get motor out and split the cases.

Anyway chaps thanks for the input, after all my babbling on is here is there a tool hire system in here at all ?

Safe riding

Gary

[chrisNI]

Anyway chaps thanks for the input, after all my babbling on is here is there a tool hire system in here at all ?

Safe riding

Gary

Contact Jerry his number’s in the yearbook and see what tools are available, there are some available but not sure what…