Valves, shims and setting up A4

[PhilMill63]

So I had to put 3 new exhaust valves and 3 Inlet valves in, I got the valves from Z Power but did not go genuine as funds are getting short, so here's the strange thing, all 3 inlets valves seem to need at least 3.20 shims (measuring using what was in the bike and allowing 0.15) and the 3 exhaust are looking like 2.00 or less, difficult to measure, I have a 2.10 and that leaves no clearance on one valve. I replaced the exhaust valves as there was very little of the valve stem above the collets and even these new ones aren't much longer, but too long it seems.
So firstly why and secondly how do I get over the issues? I am assuming the exhaust valves need grinding to get some clearance but what about the inlets, all the seats were recut as were bad but the machine shop said they did not remove much.
Any suggestions welcome.
Thanks.

[zed1015]

From experience some of those cheap pattern valves have been incorrect in length ( usually too long ) with the collet groove also occasionally in the wrong position and have needed tipping or the collets and retainers machining to get the correct installed heights and suitable shim thickness.

[BAFF1960]

My personal preference is to use genuine Kawasaki mechanical parts where ever possible. OK the're going to be expensive and I to have had to scrape extra funds together some of the time but you save money and time down the line. If you are prepared to wait a bit and import stuff the part your wanting will usually turn up, (I had an exhaust valve from Germany at half UK price). You'll only have to fit them once and they will work. There's an awful lot of threads on here about duff pattern parts causing hassle which end up costing more money and endless time wasting - gaskets/rework. I want trouble free running/maintenance so I can enjoy reliable classic biking.