Valve clearance

[Skid Mark]

I have the head off and am waiting for a new head gasket due to a persistent and increasing oil leak. While head is off I’m checking valve clearance. I took off the outer valves to release undue pressure on the cam cap bolt holes and have the head lightly torqued down to the block to ensure it is straight before shining.
When measuring clearance I have in the past measured anywhere the cam lob is off the shim or bucket. Approx at or past 3or 9 o’clock if the lobe tip is 12o’clock. Is this sufficient or should I be measuring the base at 6 o’clock only?

[zed1015]

Measure with the lobe pointing directly away (180 degrees) from the shim to ensure you are fully on the base circle.
Clearance should be 0.15mm when re-shimming and never below the 0.10mm minimum.

[Skid Mark]

Measure with the lobe pointing directly away (180 degrees) from the shim to ensure you are fully on the base circle.
Clearance should be 0.15mm when re-shimming and never below the 0.10mm minimum.

Cheers Rob.

[gray]

I had a funny feeling ( Did I see it in a thread many moons ago?) that for most accurate results, the clearances should be checked with the head on and torqued down and the cam caps on and torqued. It might be OK to do the clearances on the bench to get the clearances into the ballpark , but worth rechecking them all quickly once the engine is fully rebuilt

[Skid Mark]

I had a funny feeling ( Did I see it in a thread many moons ago?) that for most accurate results, the clearances should be checked with the head on and torqued down and the cam caps on and torqued. It might be OK to do the clearances on the bench to get the clearances into the ballpark , but worth rechecking them all quickly once the engine is fully rebuilt

Thanks Gray,
I torqued the head down to 20ft/lb, without a head gasket. ( I removed the dowels as advised by others) I didn't torque the cam caps as I thought this was no longer advised. I just gave a good nip.
On strip down, I did notice a suspect tread on one bolt with a section of alloy coil on it so I have one tread partially stripped. I'm not sure whether to time sert it or run a 1/4 UNC tap through it and use a UNC1/4 bolt. It has a courser tread but not standard. What do ye advise? I've done the UNC on the 1000R and it seems a good job.
I will be checking one final time before covering her up and buttoning the cam cover down.

[gray]

I'd always rather stick with standard threads if poss. That way you ( or the next owner) won't get a nasty surprise if you forget which cam cap bolt is the " odd man out" and you fit the wrong one in the wrong places
If you're consider rethreading it , with timesert or Helicoil, might as well get it standard (M6?)
shouldn't be a difficult or costly job if you go to a good engineering shop

[Skid Mark]

I'd always rather stick with standard threads if poss. That way you ( or the next owner) won't get a nasty surprise if you forget which cam cap bolt is the " odd man out" and you fit the wrong one in the wrong places
If you're consider rethreading it , with timesert or Helicoil, might as well get it standard (M6?)
shouldn't be a difficult or costly job if you go to a good engineering shop

Valid point gray,
Thanks