Sweating ally prior to painting

[moizeau]

I've now painted (Tough Black) various engine parts and have other engine and general ally parts ready for paint. I had painted the barrels before I put the liners back in. When I put them back in the oven (weeks later) some paint came off in places. I have read on here that although the ally was correctly prepped and cleaned/degreased prior to painting the cause is humidity and oil that has seeped into the ally and this needs sweating out.
What temp and for how long would the parts need to be sweated for?
Glad I had this because various other engine parts are 'finished' but will now go in the oven to show any flaws before it goes back together. It would have been a bloody nightmare if I'd have found this out once the engine had been through a heat cycle.
Cheers

[zed1015]

What i do after blasting etc is warm the part to sweat out any moisture.
The heat doesn't need to be excessive but just enough to fully dry the part.
You can usually see the visual change as the moisture is drawn out.
A hot air stripper/heat gun is usually good enough for the job.
The degreasing etc prior to this sorts out any oil contamination.
When dry but still warm i mist coat the item until fully coated with a pre warmed can of a similar temp so you aren't spraying cold paint onto a warm surface.
Once painted i leave the item to flash off overnight and then bake to fully cure.

[stusco]

On the cerakote site it says 60 min at 125-149 degree C
Also blasting with a map gas blow torch will do it

[moizeau]

Thanks both. What temps do you use Rob for sweating and curing, along the lines of Stusco's?